Shop Wiring

[Danny Prosser]

Ok friends I'm ready to start trying to wire the inside of my shop. I'm going to use 10/2 for recepticales and 12/2 for the lights. My question is would you run it in sch 40 pvc, metal conduit or just staple it to the walls and ceiling. The 10/2 will be run along the top of the walls and down a light pole to about 4' up from the concrete floor. Same with the light switches except with 12/2. I'm worried about maybe rats, mice or a squirrel getting up there and maybe chewing on them. Whats your thoughts on this? I don't have to get a permit or inspection but I do want it to be safe. Thanks.

 

[Janicholson]

Ok friends I'm ready to start trying to wire the inside of my shop. I'm going to use 10/2 for recepticales and 12/2 for the lights. My question is would you run it in sch 40 pvc, metal conduit or just staple it to the walls and ceiling. The 10/2 will be run along the top of the walls and down a light pole to about 4' up from the concrete floor. Same with the light switches except with 12/2. I'm worried about maybe rats, mice or a squirrel getting up there and maybe chewing on them. Whats your thoughts on this? I don't have to get a permit or inspection but I do want it to be safe. Thanks.

I assume each of those wires is with ground. I would choose metal conduit. because rodents eat plastic even if it provides no nutrients. Jim

 

[jaoneill]

Just finished wiring my new shop, all in metal conduit; a pain in the butt to do it but you only have to do it once, better safe than sorry.

 

[Ozlander]

I think you are a gauge to heavy on the wire sizes.

 

[Danny Prosser]

I think you are a gauge to heavy on the wire sizes.

Thanks but I already have that wire and I'm using 20 amp breakers.

 

[used red MN]

Opening Pandora’s box, do you think you might be selling this property in your lifetime? If so you may also have to consider how far you live from a metropolitan area and if there is any zoning requirements where you live. If you are way out in a rural area and have never heard of getting a permit to build or remodel something on your property this probably will not apply to you. Here is the scenario I would warn you about. Later you want to or due to other reasons have to sell the property. The potential buyer hires an inspector to evaluate the property and structures for him. The inspector’s report calls out deviations in your wiring from those given in the electrical code. Then the buyers says this will cost me X dollars to repair I want you to lower the property’s price X to compensate this. You mentioned conduit, per code I don’t think sheathed wiring is supposed to be installed in conduit. Just one item I came up with. YMMV

 

[wp6529]

12/2 for receptacles, 20A circuit breaker and 15A or 20A receptacles (code allows either on 20A circuit). 14/2 for lighting and that is overkill these days of all LED lighting where even a big shop probably has 10A of lighting load. Romex stapled properly is fine pretty much everywhere above 6' high in a shop, below that you should put it in conduit for physical protection. The easiest is to use EMT (metal) conduit and they make fittings that have a screw clamp sleeve for the EMT to a Romex clamp for just such transitions. You need to remove the Romex jacket for the portion past the clamp going into the EMT. Use GFCI receptacles, you can put one at the start of a series of receptacles and use standard receptacles with the included GFCI protected downstream of the GFCI off of it's load terminals. If no permits are required that is great, however you should still do things to code as the code is a good minimum guide for most situations.

 

[ed12345]

12/2 for receptacles, 20A circuit breaker and 15A or 20A receptacles (code allows either on 20A circuit). 14/2 for lighting and that is overkill these days of all LED lighting where even a big shop probably has 10A of lighting load. Romex stapled properly is fine pretty much everywhere above 6' high in a shop, below that you should put it in conduit for physical protection. The easiest is to use EMT (metal) conduit and they make fittings that have a screw clamp sleeve for the EMT to a Romex clamp for just such transitions. You need to remove the Romex jacket for the portion past the clamp going into the EMT. Use GFCI receptacles, you can put one at the start of a series of receptacles and use standard receptacles with the included GFCI protected downstream of the GFCI off of its load terminals. If no permits are required that is great, however you should still do things to code as the code is a good minimum guide for most

I think you are a gauge too heavy on the wire sizes.

Yep, and it’s not fun to wrestle the heavier gage wire when you don’t have to.

Heard the electric code may go to 10 amp breakers and thinner wire for light circuits because of LED,’s

 

[Janicholson]

Thanks but I already have that wire and I'm using 20 amp breakers.

15 amp on the light circuit! unless there is an expected load on it. Jim

 

[jaoneill]

Yep, and it’s not fun to wrestle the heavier gage wire when you don’t have to.

Heard the electric code may go to 10 amp breakers and thinner wire for light circuits because of LED,’s

Speaking of wire sizes, FWIW. I had more than enough wire left from projects back in the 90's to do my shop but my brother just finished a new house and in a side-by-side comparison of 12 and 14 gauge wire the new stuff is visibly thinner than the old. Not just the size of the sheathed cable, but the conductors themselves. Didn't go so far as to measure it but they are clearly selling wire that is not of the gauge it is labeled. Is wire "gauge" another of those new "nominal" measurements? As in a nominal 2x4 being only 1 1/2 x 3 1/2......

 

[johndeere720GA]

I believe the THHN wire is the preferred wire for conduit. But if you already have Romex, I would use 3/4" or 1" for the 10g wire with plenty of lube. Hopefully, you can break it down into shorter runs. Romex is not as slick as THHN.

 

[MarkB_MI]

I agree you're going to regret running 10 gauge wire for the receptacles; it's tough to work with. And 12 gauge is really overkill for modern lights.

You say you already have the wire AND you ask if you should run it in conduit or 'just staple it'. Hmm... You don't run romex in conduit and you don't run single conductors outside conduit. If you're committed to using the wire you have, it sounds like you've already decided to NOT use conduit.

I ran everything in my shop in conduit. It looks good and was well worth the time and expense. IMO, romex is too easily damaged to use in a shop, although I do have some in my shop's attic. I used EMT conduit, which isn't terribly expensive and is much tougher than PVC. YMMV.

 

[RedMF40]

I assume each of those wires is with ground. I would choose metal conduit. because rodents eat plastic even if it provides no nutrients. Jim

I like EMT, nice clean look. My shop was already wired that way so when I added circuits I got handy with a tubing bender to keep everything the same.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

You can buy a lot of regret for what a roll of 14/2 romex costs these days...

 

[olddavid]

Suggest you save the #10 for 30 amp loads, use the #12 for the outlets and get #14 for the lighting. #10 may not hook to your outlets and switches very well and has been mentioned it's difficult to work with. #12 is difficult enough. Since you already have the wire, I guess I won't suggest armored cable (would that be code?) instead of conduit. It's a bit easier to run in my opinion and gives more flexibility (pun intended). No bending and struggling to get the perfect angle.

 

[jaoneill]

I agree you're going to regret running 10 gauge wire for the receptacles; it's tough to work with. And 12 gauge is really overkill for modern lights.

You say you already have the wire AND you ask if you should run it in conduit or 'just staple it'. Hmm... You don't run romex in conduit and you don't run single conductors outside conduit. If you're committed to using the wire you have, it sounds like you've already decided to NOT use conduit.

I ran everything in my shop in conduit. It looks good and was well worth the time and expense. IMO, romex is too easily damaged to use in a shop, although I do have some in my shop's attic. I used EMT conduit, which isn't terribly expensive and is much tougher than PVC. YMMV.

X2

 

[HFJ]

when i had my house put in ,i bought and learned to use a conduit bender. so glad i did . imo, EMT looks much better than PVC.

 

[Tony in SD]

X2

X3
And I would add that by the time you are done wiring 10/2 in conduit on 20 amp outlet receptacles, you will have wished you would have spent the money on 12 GA THHN.

 

[moresmoke]

I agree you're going to regret running 10 gauge wire for the receptacles; it's tough to work with. And 12 gauge is really overkill for modern lights.

You say you already have the wire AND you ask if you should run it in conduit or 'just staple it'. Hmm... You don't run romex in conduit and you don't run single conductors outside conduit. If you're committed to using the wire you have, it sounds like you've already decided to NOT use conduit.

I ran everything in my shop in conduit. It looks good and was well worth the time and expense. IMO, romex is too easily damaged to use in a shop, although I do have some in my shop's attic. I used EMT conduit, which isn't terribly expensive and is much tougher than PVC. YMMV.

What I like about EMT is 2 clips per 10 ft and you can have nice straight runs. PVC sags and droops and is worse the warmer it is.

 

[zuhnc]

@Danny Prosser - Romex (tm) is NOT permitted to be run in conduit its whole length. Only in "sleeves" for short distances for some protection. I have Romex in my shop, but it is well protected, so no conduit. I also have 4 outdoor cats, so no rodent issues.

I would agree - 10/2 w/ground for only those receptacles that really NEED 30 amps. 12/2 w/ground for receptacles is fine, and the lighting circuits (LED for sure) are good with the 14/2 w/ground.

I have 2, 50 amp, 120/240 volt, circuits for my welding machines. Used #6/3 w/ground. That was a little difficult to install, but manageable; none of this is in conduit.

Plan out your circuits, and ensure you have enough spaces in your panel for current and future needs; I had to change mine out twice due to lack of foresight! zuhnc