Cracked cylinder wall

[Corey Watkins]

I have a 1947 ford 2n and I'm currently rebuilding the engine and as i was fixing a few things i saw a hairline crack in the cylinder wall, Not the cylinder sleeve, in the cast iron behind the sleeve, and i was wondering if i could just ignore it or if i should bring it to a machine shop and have it fixed or if it can even be fixed, and if it can be fixed what would a guesstimate of price of that be to get it machined?

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

I have a 1947 ford 2n and I'm currently rebuilding the engine and as i was fixing a few things i saw a hairline crack in the cylinder wall, Not the cylinder sleeve, in the cast iron behind the sleeve, and i was wondering if i could just ignore it or if i should bring it to a machine shop and have it fixed or if it can even be fixed, and if it can be fixed what would a guesstimate of price of that be to get it machined?

If left alone it could get worse and usually does. Best to take it to your machine shop guy and have it evaluated and he will advise the best avenue to pursue.

Tim Daley (MI)

 

[Dan]

From what I have heard, this is no big deal and fairly common. May need to use some loctite sleeve adhesive but there are quite a few members on this forum that are more knowledgeable. I am curious what Hobo would say.

 

[Corey Watkins]

I called my machine shop guy and he said just to use silicone or jb weld and fill the crack and put the sleeve in with it still drying

 

[Rldraehn]

Had cracks in the cylinder. Found the cracks when the sleeves were pulled. The cracks were allowing water to get out of the block and works it way down the outside of the sleeve to the oil pan. Did a lot of research as to how water gets into oil. Long story short Two things finally fixed the problem. 1. A very thin layer of Permatex Copper head sealant on the crack then reinstall the sleeve while permatex is drying. Also CRC K&W metallic block seal. This product has a very short shelf life. It has an epoxy in it. First several cans I bought were set up. Look for the can fill date. If you can NOT get a fresh can less than a year old contact the manufacturers.

 

[Bruce(OR)]

Sidebar~~
I thank you for the expiration info on the Block Seal. I actually currently have two engines that will undergo that treatment. One is a daily driver. The other is a 2N with a belly mower I just picked up. That will potentially get treated right after I check the direction of the thermostat.

 

[Rldraehn]

Best of luck. The Block seal comes in multiple formats. The CRC K&W is the only one I found with “epoxy” the air cure time is very specific. But CRC has good company sponsored YouTube Videos.