2N Carb

[Ron 7000]

My 2N carb became a real pain about 5 years ago and I rebuilt it. It is now apparently ready for either another rebuild or the scrap heap.

I was wondering if the $35 to $45 carbs are any good. I thought that if they are any good they would be about as much as a rebuild.

 

[trouttman]

(quoted from post at 16:07:14 08/02/23) My 2N carb became a real pain about 5 years ago and I rebuilt it. It is now apparently ready for either another rebuild or the scrap heap.

I was wondering if the $35 to $45 carbs are any good. I thought that if they are any good they would be about as much as a rebuild.

Don't know what your problem is with the carb, rebuilt mine 30+ years ago when the engine was rebuilt, I have to adjust it occasionally. A Few years ago I thought I had a carb problem, turned out to be electrical. Before spending $35-45 on something that may work, I would contact one of the guys on the forum that rebuilds them and get one from them. My 2 cents worth. Trouttman

 

[Den N Ms]

Ron 7000 ,If you have rebuilt it once you can do it again,only do it cleaner.Probably don't need a kit,just new gaskets.Clean all passages with wires and torch cleaners totally clean,then blow out with compressed air,and a can of Gum Out.Drain and clean out fuel tank and sediment bowl and use clean fuel. Keep sediment bowl and screens clean once a month or at least every 6 months.
China carbs are junk.

 

[Abbby]

Please describe your exact problem you are having and members of this forum will try to assist you in making the right decision.

 

[warbaby]

I know, I know.

Those Chinese-made parts are cheap knock-offs of the good ol' Marvel Schebler TSX-33s and no REAL 'Merican would ever use one. I've heard them dissed on here for years, but I have put a few on tractors or stationary engines and havent had a problem with one yet.

Remember, these arent high-tech engines with sophisticated fuel metering and delivery needs. You can hold a cupped hand full of gas under the carburetor flange on the manifold and it will run. Sure, if you can get a decent OEM carb, do that. But if you need a cheap replacement without worn out throttle shaft bores, a clogged and stuck emulsion tube and a leaky float, buy the pot-metal replacement. IF you have bad luck it and do get a real dog, you'll be out 30 bucks, max.

THEN you can spray paint it red (or blue) and sell it on Craigslist or FBM (''Never Used!'') for 50.oo!

Amazon Prime can probably deliver one to you door with a sediment bowl screen, gasket and an even cheaper inline filter included, ready to go before that old, original is even ready to come out of the carb-dip cleaner can.

 

[Ron7000]

From these forums it appears that gas coming out the air intake is not uncommon but I have yet to see a solution

I have set the float level numerous times : 1/4 inch, high, low, to no avail. Used a different inlet valve and assembly. Is there some other function in the carb that can cause this?

 

[Abbby]

Carb coming out the intake indicates it is flooded from choking too much while trying to start it. These engines (tuned correctly) require very little choke to start. Second thing is the float may be sticking causing fuel to come out intake. If this happens before you even try to start it then the float is stuck. Other possibilities could be timing way off or low compression. You should focus on the first two items.

 

[DanielW]

As others have said - definitely rebuild the original. I've tried a few of the cheapo carbs - only one of them ran half decently, and still not superb. The biggest problem with them is the main adjusting needle being very blunt and having no finesse. It doesn't allow decent flow characteristics, and because the angle is so blunt 1/8 of a turn on the needle is about the equivalent of 4 turns on the original - very hard to adjust it.

 

[Eman85]

(quoted from post at 12:00:05 08/05/23) From these forums it appears that gas coming out the air intake is not uncommon but I have yet to see a solution

I have set the float level numerous times : 1/4 inch, high, low, to no avail. Used a different inlet valve and assembly. Is there some other function in the carb that can cause this?

When you say gas coming out of the air intake do you mean leakage from the tube connection at the carb inlet after tractor sitting with the fuel shutoff open? If so then it can only be fuel going past the needle valve from a hung float or a bad needle valve if the float level is set correctly. The clear fuel line attached to the bowl drain and used as a fuel level check will tell you where the fuel level is at.