2N distributor question

[tractor gal]

My faithful 2N had been put onto the shelf for some tasks in lieu of another tractor. It sat idle for several months...number unknown...maybe 6? Anyway, prior to it idleness, there was no problem in starting...popped right off. When I was preparing to use it recently, it wouldn't start. I took a spark plug out and could not get a spark. It had been sometime since they had been replaced so with the nice weather, I decided to install the parts in the tune-up kit: new plugs, points, rotor, distributor cap. I also had a new coil that was installed, too. Result...no change.

So, I have seen some of the suggestions to try to determine cause of no spark. BUT, here's the real problem. The copper tab within the distributor that extends to the attachment point where it joins the metal strips from the points assembly has broken off. I don't think this is the cause of the original problem but will that broken tab prevent starting when I figure out the lack of starting...I think the battery is too weak for a strong start even though it tests OK on the voltmeter, 6.65. It is older (don't know how old) and I've kept a trickle charger on it but things don't last forever so a new battery seems reasonable. My biggest concern is this copper tab. I doubt that I could solder the tab back in. A confusing part is that a youtube showed a guy replacing points in a 2N and he said NOT to attach the tab but push it up so it doesn't touch anything. When viewing that I had questions of the accuracy. Why would there be a hole in that tab if it wasn't to attach or even better why would it even be there.

Any help would be appreciated. I tend to bungle things pretty well.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

If you need to replace the insulator, you have two alternatives. Cut up an old set of points to replace the metal strip and go to the hardware store for a .250 x 3/8 square nylon anchor nut to replace the insulator. Or the wiser alternative: buy the strip, insulator and brass screw from Tim Ponn at nnalert Tractor for $12. ( 440-437-5572 phone orders only)
75 Tips

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 18:31:24 12/07/23) My faithful 2N had been put onto the shelf for some tasks in lieu of another tractor. It sat idle for several months...number unknown...maybe 6? Anyway, prior to it idleness, there was no problem in starting...popped right off. When I was preparing to use it recently, it wouldn't start. I took a spark plug out and could not get a spark. It had been sometime since they had been replaced so with the nice weather, I decided to install the parts in the tune-up kit: new plugs, points, rotor, distributor cap. I also had a new coil that was installed, too. Result...no change.

So, I have seen some of the suggestions to try to determine cause of no spark. BUT, here's the real problem. The copper tab within the distributor that extends to the attachment point where it joins the metal strips from the points assembly has broken off. I don't think this is the cause of the original problem but will that broken tab prevent starting when I figure out the lack of starting...I think the battery is too weak for a strong start even though it tests OK on the voltmeter, 6.65. It is older (don't know how old) and I've kept a trickle charger on it but things don't last forever so a new battery seems reasonable. My biggest concern is this copper tab. I doubt that I could solder the tab back in. A confusing part is that a youtube showed a guy replacing points in a 2N and he said NOT to attach the tab but push it up so it doesn't touch anything. When viewing that I had questions of the accuracy. Why would there be a hole in that tab if it wasn't to attach or even better why would it even be there.

Any help would be appreciated. I tend to bungle things pretty well.

bsolutely essential, as it is the connection between coil and points.

 

[tractor gal]

OK, Bruce. Sounds like a plan. I will give a call to nnalert Tractor and go from there. Thanks for the potential solution. Funny thing is...your reply does not show up in the reply view to the question. I have only found your reply from the email that was sent. Go figure. Glad I found it anyway! Thanks again.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Its your lucky day you can make a new strap out of a old set of contacts.

 

[tractor gal]

Still trying to start the 2N. I got the repair strip from nnalert Tractor and had no trouble getting the old out and the new in. There was continuity on the cam side between the condenser brass screw and point face. On the outside point face, no continuity. There is spark at the plugs. Coil showed 1 ohm.

This is a 6V system, front mount distributor. I took the 6V battery to Batteries Plus for a load test and they said it was good. Voltage was 6.25. I brought the battery home, re-checked the Specific Gravity in each cell. Two cells were 1.280, on cell was 1.260.

I'm beginning to wonder if it is the battery? I cleaned all the terminals and made sure everything was tight. Upon engaging the starter, the sound of the turning is not strong and after a few attempts to start, the sound gets weaker. I took the battery out again and brought it to the garage. Voltage showed 6.25. Seems like I read somewhere on this forum that 6.25 is not enough for a start.

Are there any suggestions? I'd like to get the garden plowed before the ground freezes!

 

[Hemmjo]

Check the voltage at the battery at the same time you run the starter. It could read correctly with no load, then drop too much as you try to start.

IF the voltage at the battery does not drop excessively at the battery, test the voltage at the starter and ground when you try to start it. If that voltage drops a lot, you have a bad connection or wire someplace.

Let us know the results. If someone already suggested this ... oops.

 

[tractor gal]

Thanks for the suggestions, Hemmjo. I'll have to get some alligator clips or something to hold the voltmeter probes in place while I try to start. There is no other helper here.

 

[tractor gal]

Thought I'd just complete the discussion. My 2N is up and running. Despite having been told that the battery was good after a load test, I went back to talk with someone else. The battery was NOT good after all. New battery solved the issue. Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions.

 

[Hemmjo]

It is unfortunate how much incompetent advice you can get from people who are supposed to know stuff. Keep learning you will soon be the expert.

 

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 22:47:56 12/18/23) It is unfortunate how much incompetent advice you can get from people who are supposed to know stuff. Keep learning you will soon be the expert.

Proper diagnosing a battery is an art a art very few know how to do and its not getting any better. The bad, its right under your noise EZ as pie.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 13:51:18 12/18/23)

(quoted from post at 22:47:56 12/18/23) It is unfortunate how much incompetent advice you can get from people who are supposed to know stuff. Keep learning you will soon be the expert.

Proper diagnosing a battery is an art a art very few know how to do and its not getting any better. The bad, its right under your noise EZ as pie.

his is my tester & test....what do you think of it, Hobo?

 

[Hobo,NC]

I don't know what ni-chrome is other than a resistor ?. How do you maintain a constant load does it change. If it can maintain a constant load @ 200amps for 15 seconds that's a usable tool : )

I did not say it was @100% but usable/borderline with a undetermined life span. (to protect me from the cheap arse that lives on the edge that comes in a year later and brags its still cranking my tractor/car)

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 13:57:08 12/19/23)
I don't know what ni-chrome is other than a resistor ?. How do you maintain a constant load does it change. If it can maintain a constant load @ 200amps for 15 seconds that's a usable tool : )

I did not say it was @100% but usable/borderline with a undetermined life span. (to protect me from the cheap arse that lives on the edge that comes in a year later and brags its still cranking my tractor/car)

ust a heavy duty resistor. Ni-chrome is probably the heating element in your toaster. Load will drop as battery voltage drops (not constant).