Took delivery last week, received an owners manual and have gone over it and the tractor which is needing some small repairs, but seems to run well otherwise.
Few questions or concerns, maybe I'll post a little every so often, after going over the parts diagrams. Will be on the hunt for the service manuals, seems there's several volumes of those for this one of the '97 vintage.
Brake rod/actuator leaking on both sides, one more than the other. I read about the repair on an old post here, seems straight forward unless they are difficult to replace and I have missed something. I'm not sure if I saw the correct diagram for the seal/part. It was under the rear axle section, and was like $12, hopefully that is the correct part, parts guy at this dealer should be able to clarify anyway.
I could not find the tachometer cable end on the engine, but saw the parts listed. Where is it connected to on the engine, more so, is it difficult to change one of these out, tach on this one, the needle moves all over, its definitely not working.
3.3/192 turbo diesel. I hear what appears to be a valve tick noise at idle, it stands out a bit, wondering if there is an adjustment, normal or what for 1200 hrs?
It has an under-slung exhaust, and for now its fine, but I would like a vertical back on it, seems I'll need 2 pieces, the one just off the manifold, then the muffler itself ? Might need to make something custom, stack might be a tad bit tall to get into the garage, any suggestions, shorter muffler or removable top end with a rain cap or 45 on top etc.?
I'm going to re-tube the rear tires immediately/asap and hope the couple of heavier rust areas are not too thin, upon close inspection, seems I should be able to clean up 90% of both rims. CACL is going, will re-ballast with something else.
3 pt and drawbar- chasing down some hardware, unreal as the first owner of this one certainly was careless, one of the lift arm ends needs the correct hardware, he's got a bolt in there instead of the lever or what the heck was done on that side. Pins are missing for the drawbar, one wrong one on the rops and the wire rope lanyard buggered up, all seemingly easy though. The oem drawbar did not appear to have been used, the first few inches of the hitch pin end of it was in the dirt by the looks of it. It was probably leaning up against a wall in a dirt floor shed, will clean up nicely, and at least I have that and the oem top link! I do like the options for switching to cat 2 lift arm balls and top link end.
Electrical: rear work light does not work, one fender light busted off, and some loose wiring here and there but not under the hood. The dealer replaced the key switch, said there was a rodent nest in there or something. Person who called me from the dealer said a "rats nest" I assumed mice, and not a description of wiring they found LOL ! So I suppose, I had better take a look, but the biggest concern is, fire hazards being parked in my garage, lighting circuits, need to iron that out, some loose, disconnected or broken wiring I have seen out further along the fenders, something not plugged in under the hood etc. I've got a battery kill switch somewhere, plan to put that on. A one line diagram out of a service manual sure would be handy about now LOL !
One last one for this round. This one has the 8x8 (shuttle) and the book states its independent pto. This is a lot different than the 850, as well as the 3600 with 2 stage clutch. There is some description in the owners manual on engagement/feathering, will try that, as well as adjusting the stop. I assume, but am not sure, the pto is engaged without disengaging the clutch, using care to do so per the manual. With the pto at 540 rpm, say with a rotary mower on, is it fair to say you can forward and reverse the shuttle in the gear you are working in with no issues ? Manual does not say anything on that. In that situation, can you maintain full engine speed, or just reduce throttle to shift smoothly then throttle up again, for say getting in and out of places where you may need to back in to cut, then pull forward, turn, and then move over to get the next section, of underbrush under the old hedge rows. Obviously when engaging the independent pto, you'll reduce the engine speed so its not a sudden shock load, just wondering about working in tight areas and shifting with the mower running is all.
That's it for this round, much appreciated and hopefully the post is of help to others with one of these. Seems like when all is done, it will be a good one, I took it around the property, fits in the woods nicely, and is good on the hills too!
Few questions or concerns, maybe I'll post a little every so often, after going over the parts diagrams. Will be on the hunt for the service manuals, seems there's several volumes of those for this one of the '97 vintage.
Brake rod/actuator leaking on both sides, one more than the other. I read about the repair on an old post here, seems straight forward unless they are difficult to replace and I have missed something. I'm not sure if I saw the correct diagram for the seal/part. It was under the rear axle section, and was like $12, hopefully that is the correct part, parts guy at this dealer should be able to clarify anyway.
I could not find the tachometer cable end on the engine, but saw the parts listed. Where is it connected to on the engine, more so, is it difficult to change one of these out, tach on this one, the needle moves all over, its definitely not working.
3.3/192 turbo diesel. I hear what appears to be a valve tick noise at idle, it stands out a bit, wondering if there is an adjustment, normal or what for 1200 hrs?
It has an under-slung exhaust, and for now its fine, but I would like a vertical back on it, seems I'll need 2 pieces, the one just off the manifold, then the muffler itself ? Might need to make something custom, stack might be a tad bit tall to get into the garage, any suggestions, shorter muffler or removable top end with a rain cap or 45 on top etc.?
I'm going to re-tube the rear tires immediately/asap and hope the couple of heavier rust areas are not too thin, upon close inspection, seems I should be able to clean up 90% of both rims. CACL is going, will re-ballast with something else.
3 pt and drawbar- chasing down some hardware, unreal as the first owner of this one certainly was careless, one of the lift arm ends needs the correct hardware, he's got a bolt in there instead of the lever or what the heck was done on that side. Pins are missing for the drawbar, one wrong one on the rops and the wire rope lanyard buggered up, all seemingly easy though. The oem drawbar did not appear to have been used, the first few inches of the hitch pin end of it was in the dirt by the looks of it. It was probably leaning up against a wall in a dirt floor shed, will clean up nicely, and at least I have that and the oem top link! I do like the options for switching to cat 2 lift arm balls and top link end.
Electrical: rear work light does not work, one fender light busted off, and some loose wiring here and there but not under the hood. The dealer replaced the key switch, said there was a rodent nest in there or something. Person who called me from the dealer said a "rats nest" I assumed mice, and not a description of wiring they found LOL ! So I suppose, I had better take a look, but the biggest concern is, fire hazards being parked in my garage, lighting circuits, need to iron that out, some loose, disconnected or broken wiring I have seen out further along the fenders, something not plugged in under the hood etc. I've got a battery kill switch somewhere, plan to put that on. A one line diagram out of a service manual sure would be handy about now LOL !
One last one for this round. This one has the 8x8 (shuttle) and the book states its independent pto. This is a lot different than the 850, as well as the 3600 with 2 stage clutch. There is some description in the owners manual on engagement/feathering, will try that, as well as adjusting the stop. I assume, but am not sure, the pto is engaged without disengaging the clutch, using care to do so per the manual. With the pto at 540 rpm, say with a rotary mower on, is it fair to say you can forward and reverse the shuttle in the gear you are working in with no issues ? Manual does not say anything on that. In that situation, can you maintain full engine speed, or just reduce throttle to shift smoothly then throttle up again, for say getting in and out of places where you may need to back in to cut, then pull forward, turn, and then move over to get the next section, of underbrush under the old hedge rows. Obviously when engaging the independent pto, you'll reduce the engine speed so its not a sudden shock load, just wondering about working in tight areas and shifting with the mower running is all.
That's it for this round, much appreciated and hopefully the post is of help to others with one of these. Seems like when all is done, it will be a good one, I took it around the property, fits in the woods nicely, and is good on the hills too!