52 8n Stalling

[94onthefloor]

I recently purchased a 52 8n converted to 12v. When I initially started it I noticed it had a slight miss. I bought new plugs and wires for it as they were old and the plugs were not correct. While doing this I realized the plug wires were not in order on the cap and pulled the distributor and reset the timing. After doing all that it ran like a top and I thought it was good to go until it stalled about a 1-2mins of it running. I then proceeded to replace the coil, ballast resistor, and ignition switch as they were all heavily dated. I proceeded to start the tractor and still came up with the same stalling problem. I then pulled the carb, fuel line, and sediment bowl. I cleaned all these parts along with the tank and put it back together. I started the tractor with high hopes and it seemed to be running great so good I started my way to my brush hog nestled in the woods when the tractor then again stalled after a little bit longer time period than before maybe an extra minute of run time. When the tractor stalls I can hear a fluid what I believe to be fuel running down the line. I m not sure if that s an indication to the problem or if it s something else. I have not been able to inspect the points or condenser due to not knowing how to remove the rotor to remove the points cover that is also facing away from the oiler. I know this isn t right either. If anyone could give me tips on things to do/look for or how to remove the rotor to access the points and condenser to replace those as an extra set came with the tractor that would be great!

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Just pull the rotor off. But be careful, it's got a clip under it that's easily lost.

Do you by chance have a new shiny off-shore Amazon carb or the OEM M/S?

As soon as the tractor stops running, not 5 minutes later, check for spark, fuel and battery voltage.

Does the tractor have a spark that will jump 1/4 in open air?*

Will the gas drain out of the carb bowl in a steady stream and fill a pint jar in less than 2 minutes?

What is the EXACT voltage at the battery? ( yes, you need a multimeter for that, not a worthless light)

How do I know this part is defective?

These are the questions you need answered before you attempt any repairs or buy a new part.

*If you dont own a spark checker w/ an adjustable gap ( NOT a light) buy one. In the meantime, an old spark plug w/ the gap opened to at least will work. Ground it to a
rust & paint free spot on the engine turn the key on & look for a spark.

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75 Tips

 

[R Geiger]

[A 52 8n does not have a ballast resistor.

 

[94onthefloor]

(quoted from post at 11:52:37 09/30/23) Just pull the rotor off. But be careful, it's got a clip under it that's easily lost.

Alright ill Try pulling on it harder than I was. I do have an oem carb on it. Nice hot spark consistent after it stalls. And a good steady 12.4v at the battery as that is new too. If I pull the fuel line it s not exactly a steam but more a fast dribble. I will try the pint thing and see what my result is. If it is not flowing fast enough what should I do?

 

[94onthefloor]

My 8n does have a ballast resistor that I think was installed when it was converted to 12v.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

That's probably because it has a 6v coil. If it has a 12v, you need to remove the ballast resistor or you will have too much resistance in the ignition circuit.
75 Tips

 

[Bruce (VA)]

A nice hot spark is meaningless unless it jumps 1/4 in open air. Does it?

If the gas flow out of the bottom of the carb does not fill a pint jar in less than 2 minutes, find out why. Start by removing the gas cap to see if the tank vent is clogged.
Next, remove the fuel line from the carb and repeat the 2-minute test.

See tips 45 & 56
75 Tips

 

[duey]

The Gas tank VENT can... become 'clogged' which then doesn't allow the used up fuel to be replaced with air inside the tank. That stops fuel flow.. a quick check is to loosen the gas cap and manually let air in... costs nothing to try.. The normal vent is not accessible without removal of the tank....

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

Know the difference. Forget model year. Know if your N has the Front Mount (39-50) or Angle Mount (50-52) Distributor. ALL 9N, 2N, and early 8N's til 1950 with the
front mount distributor used the OEM 9N-12250 (A8NN-12250) Ballast Resistor in the circuit. Later 8N's with the side mount distributor AND ALL TRACTORS AFTER DID NOT
use the BALLAST RESISTOR. These later models used a passive terminal post, p/n 8NNN-14448, mounted behind the dash. THE 12250 BALLAST RESISTOR STAYS IN PLACE EVEN IF
YOU GO TO A 12V SYSTEM. When you wire a 12V system on both front and side mount tractors, if you keep your original 6V COIL, then you need to add an in-line, external
1.6 OHM resistor in the coil circuit -see pix. This is a rectangular, white ceramic component sold by most suppliers. If you go to 12V and swap out the 6V COIL for a
verified 12V COIL, you DO NOT use the external resistor. Verified means proven to be a true 12V unit. Don't go by what the box says. Not all suppliers are equal. In
addition, you need to verify your entire wiring system is correct regardless if 6V/POS GRN or 12V/NEG GRN wiring is used. Many 12V conversions are done incorrectly.
Many 6V systems are also incorrectly wired. As the late sparkie-Meister Dell used to say, ...if your tractor won't start on 6 Volts, what makes you think it will on
12 Volts? If'N ya don't understand the 6V/POS GRN system, how can you do a 12V switcheroo job? With 12V you remove the GENERATOR and the VOLTAGE REGULATOR or CUTOUT
all together. Install a 1 or 3-Wire ALTERNATOR and be sure to use a belt tensioning bracket. ALL 8N's and up use a 3-Wire Starter Motor with a RELAY (SOLENOID). 99.98%
of all non-starting issues are due to incorrect wiring, that's a fact. Know what you are doing B4 jumping in head first.


OEM 9N-12250 BALLAST RESISTOR - USED WITH ALL FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTORS:

ADDED EXTERNAL 1.6 OHM RESISTOR USED WITH A 12V SYSTEM AND IF A 6V COIL IS IN CIRCUIT:

THIS IS NOT A RESISTOR. IT IS p/n 8N-8NNN-14448, THE TERMINAL POST USED WITH ALL ANGLE MOUNT DISTRUBUTORS FROM THE 8N ON UP THRU HUNDRED SERIES:

FORD AFTER S/N 8N-263844 WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR:
OEM 6V/POS GRN WIRING:

8N 12V CONVERSIONS FOR LATER, AFTER S/N 263844 MODELS:

NOTE: 12V PICTOGRAMS SHOWN USING A 12V COIL - NO EXTERNAL RESISTOR REQUIRED.

8N 12V CONVERSION USING A 6V COIL - EXTERNAL RESISTOR IS REQUIRED.

Tim Daley (MI)

 

[94onthefloor]

(quoted from post at 13:15:07 09/30/23) A nice hot spark is meaningless unless it jumps 1/4 in open air. Does it?

If the gas flow out of the bottom of the carb does not fill a pint jar in less than 2 minutes, find out why. Start by removing the gas cap to see if the tank vent is clogged.
Next, remove the fuel line from the carb and repeat the 2-minute test.

See tips 45 & 56
75 Tips

I just messed with it some more and right after it stalls for about 10 seconds it does have weak spark that won t very far at all

 

[94onthefloor]

It is a side mount distributor

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Does the tractor have a spark that will jump 1/4 in open air?*

Will the gas drain out of the carb bowl in a steady stream and fill a pint jar in less than 2 minutes?

What is the EXACT voltage at the battery? ( yes, you need a multimeter for that, not a worthless light)



*If you dont own a spark checker w/ an adjustable gap ( NOT a light) buy one. In the meantime, an old spark plug w/ the gap opened to at least will work. Ground it to a
rust & paint free spot on the engine turn the key on & look for a spark.

Amazon.com: The Best DealOriGlam Spark Plug Tester, Adjustable Ignition System Coil Tester, Coil-on Plug Ignition Spark Circuit Tester, Autos Diagnostic Test Tool :
Automotive
75 Tips