Adjusting an A193 plow

Charlie M

Well-known Member
Last year I picked up an A193 plow to use on my 100. After some welding, new parts and some parts I already had I got it into good shape but I had to make some of the parts for the depth adjustment rod. I tried plowing for the first time last fall and it plowed real nice but it went maximum depth and I couldn't get it to adjust to less depth. I suspect I need to adjust the parts that were fabricated for depth control. The manual talks about leveling the plow but I'm not quite sure how it should be done. Can the plow be just dropped onto the ground and leveled up or does it need to be into the ground first. Where should the depth control be set when leveling the plow. If this were more than a 1 bottom plow I think I could figure it out but with only one bottom I need some advise from someone that owns one of these plows.
 
The book for my BN plow shows to put the right rear wheel up on a block. The block should be the same thickness as the depth you plan to plow, so 6 or 7 inches. Then you can adjust the plow angle and depth on a flat surface and your plow will be set correctly when the right rear wheel is in the furrow. Maybe you should look for a manual for your plow to see what instructions they give.
Dave
 
Guys - thanks for the info. I have a manual which includes the plow but it doesn't go into any where near the detail you guys have given me.
 
The book for my BN plow shows to put the right rear wheel up on a block. The block should be the same thickness as the depth you plan to plow, so 6 or 7 inches. Then you can adjust the plow angle and depth on a flat surface and your plow will be set correctly when the right rear wheel is in the furrow. Maybe you should look for a manual for your plow to see what instructions they give.
Dave
I'm impressed you have a plow for your BN. Is it different from a plow for an A? I have a BN but I think only once I've seen an implement on a BN - it was a 2 row cultivator on a tractor at an auction.
 
My granddad had a mounted two row corn planter and a mounted sickle mower all lifted by exhaust cylinder. john
 
Guys - thanks for the info. I have a manual which includes the plow but it doesn't go into any where near the detail you guys have given me.
The link to the Cub adjustment is for a Fast Hitch plow.

You have a drawbar mount plow. There isn't a whole lot to adjust or "set up" on these. It's completely unnecessary to put the tractor up on blocks because the angle is already set by the twist in the plow beam, and there is no practical way to adjust it..

Do you have the plow mounted correctly? The drawbar should be turned around to be backwards, and mounted to the front set of pads on the final drives. Then the depth control linkage runs from the center of the drawbar up to the right side hydraulic arm. Raising the front of the plow reduces plowing depth.
 
Charlie, the BN plow hooks up same as an A plow but the width of the rear lift is wider as the rear of a BN is wider than an A. You remove both drawbars and the front of the plow beam hooks to a bracket bolted to the front of the tractor. The depth controll bolts to the right side of the tractor and the adjusting lever is right in front of the operator. That adjustment moves the front of the plow beam up and down same as on a Cub. I also have a 2 row cultivator. Took me years to find all these parts.
I'm in Michigan. Where are you located?
Dave
 
The link to the Cub adjustment is for a Fast Hitch plow.

You have a drawbar mount plow. There isn't a whole lot to adjust or "set up" on these. It's completely unnecessary to put the tractor up on blocks because the angle is already set by the twist in the plow beam, and there is no practical way to adjust it..
I read the original question as mainly concerning what level means. That is the same Fast-Hitch or not. The method of adjustment is different. The posts at the place I linked talk about both, although the pictures are Fast-Hitch.

On the A-193 plow, the side-to-side tilt can be set by turning the eccentric at the front of the beam. Most guys don't even know that adjustment is there. Usually just as well as they normally don't need adjusting and people usually make it worse.
 
Charlie, the BN plow hooks up same as an A plow but the width of the rear lift is wider as the rear of a BN is wider than an A. You remove both drawbars and the front of the plow beam hooks to a bracket bolted to the front of the tractor. The depth controll bolts to the right side of the tractor and the adjusting lever is right in front of the operator. That adjustment moves the front of the plow beam up and down same as on a Cub. I also have a 2 row cultivator. Took me years to find all these parts.
I'm in Michigan. Where are you located?
Dave
I'm just west of Rochester NY. I actually have the plow you describe for an A someone gave me many years ago but there were never any levers or anything else to attach it to a tractor. Maybe I'll get lucky and find some someday. I think most implements for these old tractors are hard to find - too many have been scrapped over the years
 
on using a 100 wouldn't he have to have the right front wheel raised as well as the right rear wheel for adjustment?
IMHO no. It doesn't change the side-to-side angle of the rear of the tractor, which is what you're adjusting by putting the tractor up on the block.

Front-to-back angle adjustment is done on the fly with the depth control.
 
I read the original question as mainly concerning what level means. That is the same Fast-Hitch or not. The method of adjustment is different. The posts at the place I linked talk about both, although the pictures are Fast-Hitch.

On the A-193 plow, the side-to-side tilt can be set by turning the eccentric at the front of the beam. Most guys don't even know that adjustment is there. Usually just as well as they normally don't need adjusting and people usually make it worse.
Hmm, before I got the fast hitch for my super A I had a 193 plow that I put on several times. Never noticed any adjustment eccentric on the front. Just a thing that looked like half of a very thick door hinge that bolted to the drawbar, and a pin that went through the springamathing on the front of the plow beam. Plow always worked well, but that was likely because it was already adjusted.
 

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