Int 300u electrical system

[13fx]

So the 300u that I bought with a
stick motor came loose during
the haul home. Never had that
luck before. So since the motor
is free I'm going to dig more
into the machine,see if I can
get it running than driving and
if that goes well work on the
hydraulic system. But first
running. To do that I've been
looking over the starter,
generator and other components.
Originally this tractor would
have been 6v. I've got 1 6v
light, 2 12v lights what looks
like the original 6v starter,
the and generator I'm not sure
about. Given that it has the
resistor between the coil and
distributor I would believe that
this was ran as a 12v. None of
the parts seem to be labeled
with their voltages. Without it
running and using a multi meter
how can I tell the components
voltages? I'm going to try and
attach pics.
<img
src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto150598.jpg
>

<img
src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto150599.jpg
>

<img
src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto150600.jpg
>

<img
src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto150601.jpg
>

 

[Janicholson]

The generator will (should) have a ID plate with a number. That will inform on its voltage. If it was operated from 12v, and a resistor, then it may be 12v generator. The conversion to a Hitachi 14321 alternator is handy and best. The Starter will work for years on 12v, no issue there. This site sells manuals for wiring and operation and repair. We have lots of 300 and 350 U experience here. Jim

 

[rustred]

Most important is to remove the spark plugs and squirt some engine oil in the cylinders. That will get the rings lube while working on the rest. Check the battery cables. If it still has the big positive end to ground its most likely still 6volt. But a 6 volt battery in and check the spark at plugs. I cant get the pictures.

 

[used red MN]

You did post a picture that showed fine in your other thread not sure what happened here. Did you use the ..Choose files.. button down lower in the Post and Reply window? That is how you post them. Possibly if you post 2 pictures to a reply maybe that will help.

 

[13fx]

I am posting the pics that have the nameplates. Incase the pics come up third part again the starter is a DR 804E and the gen is a DR 100531

 

[13fx]

Hey ja, any chance you might be willing to let me have your contact info? If so plz send it to [email protected]

 

[rustred]

Why would u not clean them tags so we could read them. And post the distributor and battery cables. Its highly unlikely someone went through the trouble to install a 12 volt starter and generator on a 6 volt tractor. Looks to me like a 6 volt generator as a complete pic with the pulley tells the story also.

 

[willie in mn]

IIRC, Delco used red tags on 12 volt starters/generators. Or I might be wrong again, red on 6 v, black on 12v.

 

[3LFarms]

You are correct. Red tags on the Delco Remy starters and generators means 12 volts.

 

[13fx]

That's what the tags look like after I cleaned it off with a brush and mild soap, if you look close at bottom pic you will see where I stopped cleaning. Btw, here's the data plate you asked about why he couldn't tell what I had.

 

[13fx]

It's good to know that they color coded their tags that way.

 

[Janicholson]

I appreciate the need to discuss things. I am a University faculty and am really swamped at this point in the semester. Asking your questions on this forum will get more responses than mine and I am swamped with Emails and might not respond. Please take no offense. Jim

 

[used red MN]

Willie in mn should have went with his first statement the 12 volt Delco units had red tags and generally said ..12 volts.. right on them. So you have 6 volt units. I do not have access to a 300U wiring diagram. I do have one for a 330U which I believe is nearly identical. However, the 330 I believe is a 12 volt machine. It makes no difference they were wired the same and the batteries were installed with the positive post connecting to the chassis ground. For this initial start check that will work fine. The 300 and 350 were built right around the time IH was switching over to 12 volts. Since you are not sure of the exact condition of this tractor I would recommend you just set a 12 volt battery in it for your initial start ups and engine checks. In the wiring diagram I am linking find the one for the ..I330 utility gas.. I would recommend disconnecting the wires from the Bat, Gen and L terminals and tape them. If this causes you to loose power at the coil with the switch on you will need to connect the wires off Bat and L terminals together with a small machine screw and tape that up. You should now be able to power the ignition by the switch and also use it to crank the engine. The generator and voltage regulator will be unhooked so no damage will happen to them by the higher voltage. Do not turn on any lights on with 6 volt bulbs they will quickly burn out. Using a 12 volt battery does not leave you stuck with an oddball 6 volt battery if the tractor turns out to not be a viable project. I would suggest you crack all the drain plugs one on the engine 3 one the rear end and transmission loosen them to the point they just drip to make sure it is oil that comes out and not water. If water loosen enough so it drips and tighten it when only oil is dripping. I also believe that the hydraulic reservoir under the seat has a drain as well. I cannot tell you where it is I am far more familiar with the Farmall row crop models. Oh and serial number 23498 likely means you have a 1956 IH 300 utility.
Wiring diagrams

 

[13fx]

None taken, I had been impressed in the past with your knowledge and respect when answering me in the past. Time is one thing none of us have enough of.