Left switch on

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
thought I burned points by someone leaving the switch on (9n front mount distr, 6v). I had pulled the distr and found all "looked" well. I don"t have a elec tester (unfort).

Its been harder and harder to start before all this too.

I need to get it running to rake/fluff my field asap. I know i should have an elect tester, - but... I do get power (using a test light) to the distributer post. Not sure how to test further than that - front mount and very tight on space in there.

With the switch being left on, and with it seemingly getting harder and harder to start -- what would most likely have gone bad? condenser? Coil? Points? I just want to try to replace piece by piece.

this isn"t the right and proper method to diag, I know, but I have rain clouds forming.

help?
 
Yeah, thats what I was wondering.

There is a "resistor" (porcelin with a wrapping of wire inside) after the switch but before the coil -- what exactly is this? previous owner has it bypassed -- I'm guessing a potential cause for the blown coil too??

Thanks Guys!
 
That resister is one that as it heats up the restance in it also goes up. Its there to help keep the coil from burning out. If its by passed then you have a very good chance that the coil is now fried from have the switch left one. You also need to replace that resister or you will keep haveing problems with the coil and points
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Remember.. it's a 2-bolt 15 minute job to R&R the distrib, and change points on yer workbench.. etc..

soundguy

 
Yeah, hmm, 15? I know its not TOO bad - but it was 15 minutes just for the one bolt - someone did a "fix" job on the radiator mount, so its an extremely tight fit. Putting it back in is a complete bugger. It sounds as if its necessary, so I'm pulling it out this evening when the heat subsides (and the mosquitos come out -grin).

-m
 
Radiator shouldn't matter??? The fan will be between the rad and the front of the engine anyway.. and that's what ya got to manuver around... just getting the distrib off the front of the engine.. etc.

You aren't taking the radiator out are you? ( you don't need to to just change the points.. etc.. )

Soundguy
 
A lot of the newer breaker point sets have a plastic "rubbing block", rather than a phenolic one, like the gold old QUALITY points used to have.

If the switch was left on long enough to heat up the breaker points, and you have a plastic rubbing block, no doubt it partially melted, reducing the breaker point gap.
 
I'll try to take a picture - no not taking radiator out its the way this guy before me rigged this up. probably won't get a picture to you, but there is a cowling of sorts off the radiator that apparently was to divert air to the engine, can't take it off without breaking welds - don't want to break welds just yet (grimmice). But its a very tight fit.

i have two 9s, I thought my other was a pain to get the distr off - its a cake now compared to this one.
 

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