New to 8 N ignition issues

[dennisbrown8n]

Have purchased a 1948 8 N it is one year younger than I ??having a great time tinkering
It was running, back fired and was missing now won’t start have a new front distributor and coil coming, there was not a block resister hooked up
, working on cleaning up the wiring and gradually going thru all areas of maintenance

 

[old]

Have purchased a 1948 8 N it is one year younger than I ??having a great time tinkering
It was running, back fired and was missing now won’t start have a new front distributor and coil coming, there was not a block resister hooked up
, working on cleaning up the wiring and gradually going thru all areas of maintenance

Back fire can be a few things. Sticking valve, or running lean or timing is off. Are you saying it doesn't have the factory ballast resister or are you saying something else. Is it still 6 volts or 12 volts?

 

[dennisbrown8n]

Thanks for the reply it has been converted to 12 volts

 

[dennisbrown8n]

And no ballast , the white ballast is in tje inside of the dash with all the wires but not hooked up
Thank you

 

[old]

And no ballast , the white ballast is in tje inside of the dash with all the wires but not hooked up
Thank you

Look behind the dash area it may have the factory resister and if so good chance it has the new 12 volt coil which only need it

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

Have purchased a 1948 8 N it is one year younger than I ??having a great time tinkering
It was running, back fired and was missing now won’t start have a new front distributor and coil coming, there was not a block resister hooked up
, working on cleaning up the wiring and gradually going thru all areas of maintenance

Whoa, pull back the reins a second . Why did you buy a new dist and coil? What was 'wrong' with the one you have? You do know that FORD engineered all components to be rebuilt over and over and that method should always be your first choice when doing PM. Do you have the firing order correct? Order is 1, 2 ,4, 3 CCW as shown in pic. On the Front Mount Distributor it easy to get #3 and #4 plug wires crossed up. Get your Manuals and reference electrical sketches. FACT: 99.98 % of all non-running/non-starting issues are due to incorrect wiring. The Front Mount is special unit. Tuned, timed, and tested on your bench then must be mounted on engine one correct way. ALL Front Mount units must use the Ballast Resistor in the coil circuit regardless if 6V/POS GRN or 12V/NEG GRN. Whether if using a GEN or an ALT you must have a fan belt tension device attached otherwise you will never charge the battery. SEE PICTOGRAMS for correct wiring drawings. With battery power disconnected verify all wiring with your VOM set to Continuity and don't use an idiot test light or go by wire color codes. I advise you to hold onto the new parts, coil is probably OK, and no need to buy a new dist. Rebuild the old one. Learn how and why things are done as they are. Base troubleshooting on True Root Cause Problem Solving Facts & Methods and avoid guessing.


Tim Daley (MI)

 

[dennisbrown8n]

Thank you for all the info gonna digest for a few days and get back in here
Thanks for now everyone

 

[Eman85]

Countless posts about new parts installed that cause additional problems. Don't go replacing parts before diagnosing.
Start at the very beginning, do a compression test. Do a spark test and a fuel flow test, post the results. 12V conversions are very subject to human error on the install.