No spark

[Liquid_wrench]

I know you said you tested it but have you tried a new condensor?

 

[rockin]

Ya new points, condensor condensor, rotor, new distributor cap, got new plug wires for it also, I've decided that im going to change it over to a 12 volt system, have it on order so i will change the plug wire then since I'll be ripping out the old wiring anyway, there was a menion of hot wiring it to see if it will stay running , what is the proceeudure for that?

 

[rockin]

Thanks Tim for all the advise did do all those test with a except the wiring harness, the tractor is all original, so has all components you menioned I'm the second owner of the tractor, first owner had it from 1948 to 2012, i have all records, shop and owners manual, he even give me the bill of sale he got for it when he purched it, that was the one and only tractor he ever owned and used it mostly every day on his 160 acre homestead, until he passed it on to me, passed on shortly after at at the agge of 92. A gem of a fellow.

 

[old]

I know you said you tested it but have you tried a new condensor?

Now days most of the time it is better to keep the old condenser because to often the new condenser is bad right out of the box. My self I have not changed a condenser in over a decade or 2

 

[rockin]

So the news today is the old girl is now running ,but a bit cranky starting so its time to give the carb a going over, been just using a jug for the fuel supply as i have the hood and fuel tank off the tractor, on soe of the threads I have red they say having the time advance and retard plate ajusted about centered is a sweet spot for the timing is that corect, been ajusting it ,but it does'nt seem to make much differance so center is where i have it set at.

 

[used red MN]

Oh boy let’s hope Tim doesn’t see this! The method to properly time your distributor off the tractor is covered in the photos of the manual pages he posted pg57, pg58 & pg59. Tim doesn’t get the fact that not everyone voraciously gobbles up information in tractor manuals, pictures and diagrams in the way he does, even though he often signs his posts “your mileage may vary” Even so that type of information is occasionally a “necessary evil” of proper tractor repair.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

Hi everyone it's been a long while since i have been on here, anyway looking for snome insite on my 48 8n tractor, so It has been sitting for about 3 years, most of the ti me in my shop, decided that should fire the old girl up and use it, well went to fire it up and of coure no spark, did some testing ant there was power to the coil but when i put a test light on the coil and turned it over the test light should have blinked as the points opened and closed, so figured it was something inthe distributor that was the problem so pulled the distributor check and reset point , tested the coil and condensor and coil ,it all test fine, put it back together, still , no spark, put a spark plug tester on and no spark there, by chance when i hit the starter i must have wiggled the connection to it ,because when i hit it again there was spark at the plugs, so i changed the starter button with another one i had , that i new worked, since ihad the hood off i figurei might as well put new points and condensor in as i had the hood of. So i replaced them went to start the tractor and no spark again, took it apart again and relized that i hadnt tighted the condensor completely, put it back together still no spark, is it possible that i shorted something out with the condensor being loose.

Hi everyone it's been a long while since i have been on here, anyway looking for snome insite on my 48 8n tractor, so It has been sitting for about 3 years, most of the ti me in my shop, decided that should fire the old girl up and use it, well went to fire it up and of coure no spark, did some testing ant there was power to the coil but when i put a test light on the coil and turned it over the test light should have blinked as the points opened and closed, so figured it was something inthe distributor that was the problem so pulled the distributor check and reset point , tested the coil and condensor and coil ,it all test fine, put it back together, still , no spark, put a spark plug tester on and no spark there, by chance when i hit the starter i must have wiggled the connection to it ,because when i hit it again there was spark at the plugs, so i changed the starter button with another one i had , that i new worked, since ihad the hood off i figurei might as well put new points and condensor in as i had the hood of. So i replaced them went to start the tractor and no spark again, took it apart again and relized that i hadnt tighted the condensor completely, put it back together still no spark, is it possible that i shorted something out with the condensor being loose.

OK Rocky, kudos and mega-dittos on your 92 YO dad. You must be proud. Keeping the tractor in the family also is worthy of high praise. Now, all that being said by the replies on your electrical issues, some good, some not so good, buy no more new parts and further testing is required on your part. There is but one correct method to test the front mount electrical system on these old N's and have posted my old document I wrote in 2006 with B the help of Bruce (VA).

Too long to post so here it is in pdf



Tim Daley (MI)

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

Hi everyone it's been a long while since i have been on here, anyway looking for snome insite on my 48 8n tractor, so It has been sitting for about 3 years, most of the ti me in my shop, decided that should fire the old girl up and use it, well went to fire it up and of coure no spark, did some testing ant there was power to the coil but when i put a test light on the coil and turned it over the test light should have blinked as the points opened and closed, so figured it was something inthe distributor that was the problem so pulled the distributor check and reset point , tested the coil and condensor and coil ,it all test fine, put it back together, still , no spark, put a spark plug tester on and no spark there, by chance when i hit the starter i must have wiggled the connection to it ,because when i hit it again there was spark at the plugs, so i changed the starter button with another one i had , that i new worked, since ihad the hood off i figurei might as well put new points and condensor in as i had the hood of. So i replaced them went to start the tractor and no spark again, took it apart again and relized that i hadnt tighted the condensor completely, put it back together still no spark, is it possible that i shorted something out with the condensor being loose.

OK, looks like they won't allow me to post my full 9N-12100 document in pdf so if you or anyone else wants a complete copy you'll have to email me. Here is a scan of the first page to give a taste. This is all the correct data and information on the 9N-12100 Front Mount Distributor and how tune-up, time, and test it, on your bench and off the tractor. I wrote this in 2006 and recently did a revision.

Tim Daley (MI)

 

[rockin]

Thanks Tim for all the info , I do have the tractor running now,, and when i get the 12 volt convertion kit i ordered, I will pull the distributor at that time and set timing as per to manual, And I would like to thank everyone who posted to help me out getting the old tractor running.

 

[rockin]

So Now that the 8n is running and seems to be running smooth, so ithought i'd take it out for a test run,
Well did'nt go so well it does'nt have any power, I couldnt even climb the slightest incline, any suggestion, was all good when parked 3 years ago , now that i have had the distributor out, would that have something to do with the timing if seems to run fine when just sitting and running just no power wgen i go to drive it

 

[used red MN]

What does it act like when you lose power? Does it seem to go fine for a bit but when you start using power or run at a higher rpm does it seem like it sputters or misfires and wants to die? Then if you push the clutch or idle back it catches itself and the engine stays running? This could be lack of proper fuel delivery to the carb. There is a drain in the bottom of the carb number 6 in the linked diagram. CHNI Ford 8N parts catalog
Take it out and see how much gas comes out. The first cup or so will be the carb bowl emptying, but then it should keep a steady stream and not slow to a trickle. If it get to the trickle stage you have the figure out where it is plugged. Take the line off the carb and see what the flow is there. Also the elbow fitting the line connects to on the carb no. 16 has a fine screen that can plug. Pull it out and clean it. Otherwise, crud in the sediment bowl below the tank and also the screen on top of the sediment bowl in the tank can all cause poor flow. This is very common in fuel systems that have sat unused.

 

[rockin]

Ok, not enough fuel delivery to the carb is probably the problem, I have the hood off as i was working on the distributor and i hooked up a small jug of fuei straight to the carb to do a test run to make sure it was going to run ok, I didnt open the vent on the back of the jug so its probably has a air lock and not letting enough fuel get to the carb. Didnt want to put the hood back on in case i had to pull the distributor again . Thanks for that

 

[rockin]

So tried a run again with a bigger jerry can with lots of fuel delvery, it revs right up but as soon as i let out the clutch it boggs right down, push in the clutch and rpms right up again. Could it possably be the centrifugal advanace on the distributor cam shaft sticking or not working properly? If the timing ways out 180 degrees would it still run and cause no power, or would it just not start and backfire? Im lost and frustrated

 

[grandpa Love]

If you changed the condenser I'd put the old one back in since now days you have a 50/50 chance the new one if bad right out of the box

This is Old's favorite saying..... But over the last 2 years we have bought 25-30 condensers, for different Farmall tractors, all from Napa, NEVER had a bad one "right out of the box" . I guess we are really lucky

 

[used red MN]

Ya, but did you test how much fuel is getting in the carb and flowing out the bowl drain plug? Recheck what I said about the carb inlet fitting. Otherwise the carb probably needs cleaned.

 

[rockin]

Ok will check that out thanks

 

[rustred]

So tried a run again with a bigger jerry can with lots of fuel delvery, it revs right up but as soon as i let out the clutch it boggs right down, push in the clutch and rpms right up again. Could it possably be the centrifugal advanace on the distributor cam shaft sticking or not working properly? If the timing ways out 180 degrees would it still run and cause no power, or would it just not start and backfire? Im lost and frustrated

i will shoot the shot gun in the dark. is this tractor moveable, meaning have u drove it? you say it bogs down when u let out the clutch . and revs back up again when u step on it. that is normal when your brakes are stuck or seized from sitting. this is faster than reading for an hr. looking if you actually were driving this tractor.

 

[used red MN]

i will shoot the shot gun in the dark. is this tractor moveable, meaning have u drove it? you say it bogs down when u let out the clutch . and revs back up again when u step on it. that is normal when your brakes are stuck or seized from sitting. this is faster than reading for an hr. looking if you actually were driving this tractor.

RR, you must be a slow reader if it would take you an hour to read this post. I know Tim put a lot of fluff on here but you can easily skip over his posts.
OP in reply 30 “I couldnt even climb the slightest incline”

 

[rustred]

RR, you must be a slow reader if it would take you an hour to read this post. I know Tim put a lot of fluff on here but you can easily skip over his posts.
OP in reply 30 “I couldnt even climb the slightest incline”

its nice to have facts not fluff, same as what a lawyer would ask for. yes says he had the dist. out but no word on if it is timed correctly ? no spec. posted so we know its timed. i dont know if its timed correctly or how good its running. what happened trying to climb that slight incline? my post is legit for asking him. yes it can be fuel starved plus retarded timing. also curious why the fuel flow has not been checked or carb clean when it has been questioned. its a standard procedure of checking spark, timing, fuel, and even taking a spark plug reading as it is good to lube the cylinders before start up, even a compression check. then when with a couple engine cranks she is running. applies to all engines. i know you know that , but dang we would have nothing to write about if everyone got their tractors running perfectly.

 

[rockin]

Yes I was driving the tractor, and the breaks are not stuck, i can roll it by quite easily by hand.