Pertronix Ignitor II bench test fail

[Hobo,NC]

I just came across my special socket for TFI module the other day, used to carry it and a module with me in the glove box.

That may be the first 5.5mm I ran across. Until I brought a special tool I ground down a socket for this. I made a tester for this still have it. The best tester was a used distributor plug it in ground it and give it a spin. The reason for the tool is to remove the module without removing are moving the distributor as they are notorious for being stuck. All the modules (most all there were a black and a grey) were the same any dist. would work.

 

[JMOR]

That is news to me. It was always on my dime.

FIL's F-150. I have removed his name, address, etc.

https://imgur.com/ptnHmSf

https://imgur.com/zvmQVXW

 

[TheOldHokie]

FIL's F-150. I have removed his name, address, etc.

https://imgur.com/ptnHmSf

https://imgur.com/zvmQVXW

Sign me Clueless in Va.

 

[Hobo,NC]

So keep a set of points in the toolbox. That and a screwdriver will get you out of the field.

TOH

I am sure folks are dyeing to make a tester. My first ho-made socket a 7/32".

 

[TheOldHokie]

I am sure folks are dyeing to make a tester. My first ho-made socket a 7/32".

View attachment 61810
View attachment 61811

That picture just brought all the aggravation associated with that harness rushng back. BAD Hobo!!! - no beer snaxks for you.

Dan

 

[Eman85]

That may be the first 5.5mm I ran across. Until I brought a special tool I ground down a socket for this. I made a tester for this still have it. The best tester was a used distributor plug it in ground it and give it a spin. The reason for the tool is to remove the module without removing are moving the distributor as they are notorious for being stuck. All the modules (most all there were a black and a grey) were the same any dist. would work.

SnapOn had a 5.5mm socket back then, I bought the one with the plastic knob to keep in the glove box.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

I recently put a Pertronix 91247 Pertronix Ignitor II in my 12v '49 front mount dizzy 8N w/ original coil. It never did anything but sputter on trying to start. Today I finally pulled it back off to bench test it and I'm getting no voltage at all, at any point in the rotation of the shaft.

I've hooked it up like this and double checked my connections and made sure nothing wasn't touching that shouldn't be. Igniter sleeve was still in the dizzy base. The magnet sleeve I assumed to be the aluminum plate everything is connected to - that's what it looks like to me below:

View attachment 61224


Is there anything I should check before assuming it's a bad module?


edit: I should have added that when checking for spark before pulling it off, only one of four had a decent, constant spark across 1/4" gap. 2 had no spark at all, and another had a weak spark occasionally. Battery was checked good

What was "wrong" with your OEM front DIST and points again, OEM or new coil means nothing. Coils can go bad. EI works best on 12V and with a 12V Coil anyway. No need nor desire for EI ever in my life. I know and have performed hundreds of front mount tune-ups and can do one in my sleep.

Tim Daley (MI)

 

[bob p mn]

I have installed a few of the Pertronix systems over the years, the early ones you could use copper core wires. I installed one in my JD 70 maybe 15 years ago still works fine with the wires I had on it from JD. but I know of a couple guys around me who installed these new ones and they only lasted through the warranty period. One had left the copper wires in and one had the correct resistance wires, both went back to points. I will add the Pertronix tech people were good to deal with when I did call them.

 

[NMNeil]

I ended up building my own hybrid ignition.
Kept the points but they now just do the switching of an IGBT designed for ignition coils , but no need for the capacitor in the distributor or the ballast resistors. Add to this if you turn on the ignition with the points closed, and if the points don't open within 3/4 of a second the coil turns off. No more burned out coils or flat batteries, and it works just fine with solid ignition wires.
Cost under $10 for the components and having the PCB's made.
This was my test build, the one which is on the tractor now has better soldering and the power wire was properly secured, and that power wire simply connects to the terminal on the coil.

 

[soaked]

Hi timsch, hope you see this.
Called pertronix and asked lots of questions. Very helpful tech people there.
Rather than typing what I heard them say, ( hersay) I'm posting screen shots of info they sent.
The bench test you did appears only valid for Ignitor not Ignitor II.
I'm wondering if your module did not die from RFI from stranded plug wires, but had other problem, like low voltage or ground issue, and is still good.
Screen shot:

They have some 8000 products, and printed in the box info, and online pdf, may have generic, along with specific info for your module.
Best to call and verify.