PPG or Martin Senior paint?

My last tractor I painted with Martin Senior and the colors match OK but this time I want everything to be perfect since I'm painting a 1937 A that was bought new by my great grandfather.

I think the biggest problem last time is the paint guy wasn't worth a darn and just went by the standard "john deere green" in the book. This time I'm going to a different place with a much better paint guy with two pieces of metal that I painted with John Deere green and yellow paint. He [i:051dabad13]will[/i:051dabad13] have to hand-tint the paint or I won't buy it.

My current Martin Senior system is: etch primer-2k primer-sealer-paint-cleancoat. Is the PPG system similar?

The PPG store is alot farther away and I have 0 experience with their products but I would be willing to give them a try if I can hear from others on here.

No matter what I refuse to use Deere paint because I like the decals under clearcoat.

Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 18:17:41 08/16/12) My last tractor I painted with Martin Senior and the colors match OK but this time I want everything to be perfect since I'm painting a 1937 A that was bought new by my great grandfather.

I think the biggest problem last time is the paint guy wasn't worth a darn and just went by the standard "john deere green" in the book. This time I'm going to a different place with a much better paint guy with two pieces of metal that I painted with John Deere green and yellow paint. He [i:5aef9ee11b]will[/i:5aef9ee11b] have to hand-tint the paint or I won't buy it.

My current Martin Senior system is: etch primer-2k primer-sealer-paint-cleancoat. Is the PPG system similar?

The PPG store is alot farther away and I have 0 experience with their products but I would be willing to give them a try if I can hear from others on here.

No matter what I refuse to use Deere paint because I like the decals under clearcoat.

Thanks

I paint my own, and the last PPG I used was Acrylic enamel, wet sanded, then clear coat. I was never happy with the PPG yellow, so I only used the JD green, and that was code 46180. I used DuPont AE for the yellow, code 263.

I used Jorde vinyl decals, and I don't recommend putting vinyl under the clear because there are two very different expansion factors going on there. Also, clearcoat will not stick to vinyl, so there is a real possibility for separation to occur. Clearcoat a piece of vinyl and it will peel off as a sheet the next day.

Recently, I have been using DuPont Ful-Thane urethane. DuPont supplied the original paint to Deere, and through all of their paint systems from synthol, Dulux, AE, Base/Clear, and Urethane, the codes have always been 262 for the green, and 263 for the yellow.
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The 70D is PPG 46180, DuPont 263 in AE and three minute clear. The '20' pedal tractor is DuPont 262/263 Fulthane Urethane. Remember lighting and angles make a huge difference.

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I agree with FIT on the use of PPG. I have used their products exclusively since their debut of Deltron base clear system in 1987.I also have a '37 A I will be starting next spring. I used top of the line stuff on my "B" (pictured) thinking of going with the "new, but weathered" look that is all the rage now with automotive resto,s. Especially old trucks. Basically you "age stress" the decals and a few key places after base is on and then a coat of semi gloss clear to give the affect of an aged but original and pristeen survivor tractor with just a few minor battle scars. The "B" looks "new" , this one I want to look like it was bought new in '37 and used 6 mos. and parked accept for raking hay and pullin' wagons. Even more of a challenge than the "B" was. Go PPG , you won't be dissapointed.
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Just like to add my 2 bits to this, I am with Frank 100% , clear over decals not the best idea (my opinion also). As you may already know Martin Senior is the brand name and Sherwin williams is the parent company, both quality product names, been using them for many many years and only prefer one brand over them for the high dollar work, "Dupont" If I may suggest.......go to Sherwin Williams and ask if they have a photo spectrometer, If they don"t, maybe they can have one sent to them from corporate. If they can, paint a piece of sheet metal (about 12in by 12in) in the John Deere paint you want it to replicate. Most often the paint they supply for you will be spot on. Hope this presents an option you hadn"t thought of. Good luck on Great Grandpa"s tractor.
 
The PPG system is similar: I use epoxy primer (OMNI MP170) on clean sandbalsted cast & metal rather than etch primer. Next I use 2K surfacer (OMNI MP182)on the sheet metal & topcoat with single stage urethane or base/clear.

For the paint lines, Deltron is the premium, OMNI is the midgade (what I use), & Shopline is the lower grade. I have been pleased with the results in the OMNI line
 
I like to use an industrial line of primer from PPG, its a 3 part epoxy primer HSP 900, HSP901 and UA11, it sticks to anything and wears like iron. I use it over bare metal and body work. Its very high build.
Spray the primer on wait an hour and top coat with Omni MTK 46180 green. For the yellow I just use Deere yellow with hardner.

This is a B that I did for a customer last fall.

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I have a few questions, please help!

1) how do you prep (remove grease & stuff)
2) What kind of respirator do you use?
3) Do you paint inside or outside?
4) Do you have the tractor running first then break it down to paint?
 

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