WorkMaster 601 issues

[joe1383]

1959 Ford Workmaster 601: Dies after about 10 minutes. The only way to get it to run for that ten minutes is to adjust the carburetor. Here is a list of things that I have replaced or checked. I am stumped at this point and you all on here are super knowledgeable.

Has spark, getting fuel

These have been replaced within the last few months.
Carburetor
Sediment bowl
Plugs
Plug wires
Coil
Distributor
Distributor cap
Ignition switch
Battery

 

[560Dennis]

Is venting on the gas cap working ? Just a thought

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

You can continue to yank OEM parts off willy-nilly and replace with cheap new stuff until you go broke or happenstance upon the true root cause and problem gets fixed, or end up broke and still with the same non-starting issue. Do you have the Manuals and Documents? Do you have a S-O-S trans? Are you set up with a 6V/POS GND system or a 12V/NEG GND switcheroo job? Either way, is the wiring correct for that system? You see 99.98% of all non-starting issues are due to incorrect wiring. Just to be clear, you do have the Sediment Bulb Valve OPEN TWO FULL TURNS, right? First thing is to perform the Fuel Flow Test with a cold engine. Pass? Move on, it's not a fuel issue. Fail? Troubleshoot every possible root cause and fix. Next is electrical. Is battery a GRP 1 6V AG type or a 12V GP25 or GRP35 type? Was it tested at a shop for specific gravity and will sustain a full charge under load? While battery is disconnected, go thru entire wiring system via your sketches and documents. You say you installed all new distributor parts but did you do a proper tune-up setting timnig with a timing light and flywheel has marks? You would need proper carb settings and correct wiring. Replacing old parts with all new without performing proper true root cause problem solving methods is illogical. Don't guess. Stop buying new parts and replacing. Trouble shooting is a science. After Fuel Flow Test Passes, start with your OEM OWNER'S MANUAL and wiring. If you don't understand the original 6V Wiring system and it won't start, how do you figure it will on 12V and with all new parts?

*NOTE: 601/801 SERIES ELIMINATED THE AMMETER AND INSTEAD NOW USED A 'CHARGE' DASH LAMP & FUEL GAUGE.

Tim Daley (MI)

 

[caterpillar guy]

Tim you are exactly right, and I see that done so much. Dad is one that any more wants to just replace and hope for the best or junk it. He's 90 so have to over look some things.

 

[teddy52food]

condenser.

 

[joe1383]

I have a Manuel and I have not replaced parts beside carburetor and plugs since having this issue. I tried to replace the parts slowly because the tractor is a 59 and sat outside till I bought it. So just things were weathered and cracked so I started slowly to replace them I didnt want to get stuck without it running. I cleaned my tank also. I have checked the fuel from the drain plug and we are all good. It ran long enough for me to drive to the front of the house and pick up a scoop of rock and then I was almost to the side of the house and it died. I can get it running for short periods of time. 12V neg