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3-point arm castration, so to speak


 
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William Fissell
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Joined: 02 Apr 2010
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 5:23 pm    Post subject: 3-point arm castration, so to speak Reply to specific post Reply with quote

3 point arm on the 9N fell off its ball at the
mount point on the axle trumpet. Totally worn plus.

I see replacement weld-on repair ends at TSC, but I
am wary of TSC stuff. Is there a better source?

Also, for them that's done it, what's the welding
rod of choice? 7018?

thanks
 
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notjustair
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Location: NE Kansas

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 5:35 pm    Post subject: Re: 3-point arm castration, so to speak Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I have wondered the same thing on all accounts - I have an end that needs replacing. I wonder if you need the 70 series? Could you use a 6011? I guess if you needed 70 I would use 7014. I would definately V it out first.

I don"t get along AT ALL with 7018. Funny how we have our favorites.
 
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Cfranktenn
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 6:24 pm    Post subject: Re: 3-point arm castration, so to speak Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I use 7018 rods on a job like that
 
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old
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 6:29 pm    Post subject: Re: 3-point arm castration, so to speak Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I would use the 7018 AC rod. The stuff I have found is not like to old stuff a person got years ago and it pretty easy to strick an arc with.
 
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john B. ne In
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 6:31 pm    Post subject: Re: 3-point arm castration, so to speak Reply to specific post Reply with quote

If you truly have a 9-n and the ball joint took over 70 years to wear out, and the TSC part only lasted half again that long, if it were mine that would be acceptable.
 
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William Fissell
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 6:49 pm    Post subject: Re: 3-point arm castration, so to speak Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Yes, it really is a 9N, (1940 based on the S/N) and I haven't the faintest idea if it is an original lift arm or not. Yeah, I'd be fine with 30 years- I'll be dead by then. BUT I've had TSC stuff fail the same day I bought it. That wouldn't be so fine.
 
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Ken-Pa
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 6:50 pm    Post subject: Re: 3-point arm castration, so to speak Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Go ahead & get the new weld-on ends . Lay the new end on your lift arm , mark the arm , then cut it off with a cut-off disc on your angle grinder . Be sure to grind an good angle on the arm . The new piece generally comes with an angle already on it , but if not , grind it . Then lay both parts on a flat surface end to end tightly . Clamp them so they don't move . Then do a couple good tack welds to hold them in place . I used 7018 DC weld & ran my welder on +DC at 120 for good penetration .Clean up your tacks & check the alignment & tightness of joint . If satisfactory . Go ahead & run a good bead all the way around the arm . Clean it up , then you may wanna turn the heat down to 100 or 110 to do a final weld (depending on your machine), then smooth it off with a grinder .I'm no welder , but even if a hobbiest like me can do it , I'm sure you can too . Good luck & God bless , Ken
 
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russb wa
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 8:25 pm    Post subject: Re: 3-point arm castration, so to speak Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I sure like 7014, never tried 7018.
 
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tesmith66
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Location: Jerseyville, IL

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 2:18 am    Post subject: Re: 3-point arm castration, so to speak Reply to specific post Reply with quote

russb wa wrote:
(quoted from post at 21:25:12 03/25/13) I sure like 7014, never tried 7018.


I welded one on my International with a 110V MIG with .035 flux core wire. Ground a nice V and made several passes, allowing it to cool and cleaning it with a wire brush after each weld. That was 5 or 6 years ago and I have used it pretty hard. No problems at all.
 
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duey
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 7:44 pm    Post subject: Re: 3-point arm castration, so to speak Reply to specific post Reply with quote

William, do what what you want... but on my 2N, I used a hacksaw and cut about 3/16 of the worn loop out.... two cuts... and then "re-formed" (read: hammered,) the loop closed again... then welded the loop closed....it grips the ball nicely and was scarcely noticeable.

Cost? negligible.

duey
 
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