Ford 3000 Carburetor

[Ralph Newton]

I have a Ford 3000 with a holey carburetor that I have put a rebuild kit in and it will run pretty good with the choke pulled part way out but with the choke pushed all the way in it backfires and won't run at all. I hear these Holey carburetors aren't that good. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions, I don't want to buy a new carburetor if it could be something else. Points and plugs have been changed.

Thanks. Ralph
 

[wvfarmboy54]

i had this to ahpen a coupel times of 2 different tractors i dont think its geting enough gas take fuel line off at carb and turn fuel on and see if your geting a full stream if not take it loose at tank and see chances are u will there chances are your filter is gumed up and needs punched out or fuel line is gumed up just my thoughts good luck keep us posted these are good tractors
 

[Ralph Newton]

This tractor has a fuel pump and if the line is off at the carb and I turn the engine over it pumps fuel. Tractor runs good wide open and the choke pulled part way out.
 

[wvfarmboy54]

well if there plenty of gas at carb carb must be dirty gas is not good any more and gums up easly
 

[Sean in PA]

I have a 3 cylinder 4000, basically the same tractor as yours , just a little bigger bore and stroke, and a slightly larger version of the same Holley carb. Mine runs fine, never had a problem with it.

Since you say choking it helps it run better, then its either getting too much air or not enough fuel.

To find out if you've got an air leak somewhere, you can try the trick of spraying starter fluid around the intake manifold and outside of the carb while it's running to see if it revs up, and if it does, then it means that you've got an air leak at the point where the spray makes it rev up.

If it's not an air leak, then it has to be a problem with the fuel delivery. It could be dirty or incorrect jets, or the float isn't adjusted properly.
 

[Dean]

Verify that the choke cable is adjusted such that the chole closes FULLY.

Did you use a quality CNH overhaul kit when you overhauled your carburetor? If not, were ANY of the gaskets used different than the original gaskets in your carburetor? If so, you will need to get a proper kit and repeat the ovewrhaul process.

Is the float accurately adjusted? The Holley carburetor has a vacuum operated accelerator pump. This pump MUST function properly for your engine to operate properly and the float level MUST be set accurately to enable the accelerator pump to function as intended.

Verify that the float pivot pin holes in the float bowl are not worn egg shaped due to vibration. You cannot perperly adjust the float if the holes are badly worn.

Dean
 

[Ralph Newton]

The kit came from YTD and everything looked the same. I have taken it apart a couple of times and rechecked float level and cleaned and blew it out with the air compressor. It does run better than when I started but not good yet, I was wondering if I was missing something besides the carb. Points, Plugs an timing look good.
 

[Ralph Newton]

I tried checking for air leaks, but I didn't know about the starter fluid trick, good idea, will try that. thanks
 

[Dean]

There are multiple versions of the Holley carb and gaskets vary.

Unless your kit is serial number specific there is NO WAY to know if it is correct. Among other issues, metering plate gaskets have holes in different places. If you have used incorrect gaskets, your engine will never run properly.

Unlike other tractor carburetors, the Holley is sensitive to float adjustment. Float adjustment is specified to 1/64". You need to adjust it as closely as you can, at least within 1/32". As previously mentioned, this will not be possible if the float pivot pin holes are worn egg-shaped, which is not uncommon.

Is the vacuum advance functioning properly?

NEVER address carburetor issues unless/until the ignition is spot on.

Dean
 

[Ralph Newton]

The Vacuum advance seems to be working, I unhooked it and plugged the line and it still wants to spit and sputter. thanks for the info, I will play with it some more
 

[3000OH]

I suggest that you search the archives using word Holley or Holly. You"ll find this is a common problem with these carbs.

I threw the towel in on the Holley on our 3000 after tearing it apart and doing 3 rebuilds that made no difference (and I"ve done many a carb in my days). Final straw was when I found out that CNH won"t even sell you a new Holley...only Zeniths. Bought a Zenith (pricey) but it fired right up and has been a great carb for the past 5 yrs - haven"t touched it once.

Others on this board like the Holleys and seem to have better luck with rebuilds.
 

[dick-mi]

Ralph; Same problem,drove me nuts trying to get it to run by playing with choke. Switched to a Zenith from our forum,runs great.
 

[JMOR]

Zane said that accelerator pump is metal on metal & governor works the H out of it & once the aluminum is worn, they are not repairable except to fix chohe at 1/2 all the time. You be the judge. Much to read
http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=572172&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=holley&start=0
 

[cdmn]

I had my carb tuned up by a professional and it works very well. However, I have taken to using non-enthanol because the alcohol absorbs the sweat in the system and forms tiny granules that are like dirt flowing through the system. I"ve had to clean out the little filter a couple times. The pure gas is not tax free, so I don"t use the gas tractor as much as before. It is also a fact you need about 40% bigger orifice (area) because the ethanol fuel value is about 70% of pure gas. By the way, the carb guy is long gone. Not worth being in the business anymore.
 

[Ralph Newton]

Thanks for all the information, sounds like a new carb, but I will play with it some more. I have restored some old John Deere's and had a couple of the front cover green Mag, but this Ford about to drive me crazy, I think I will stick with the green ones.