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Pulled TO-20 Head...(Pictures)


 
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Tom Bowman
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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 12:19 pm    Post subject: Pulled TO-20 Head...(Pictures) Reply to specific post Reply with quote

After removing this cylinder head, now I'm up to a total of...let's see...ONE!

Here are some pictures. I'd appreciate any help in explaining what I'm seeing - crud on top of pistons, etc.

I haven't been burning oil, no smoke, etc.

I've already reached the limit of my abilities, so anything else will need to be done by a pro. (I had already planned to take the head into the shop.)

The good news, if there is any: I didn't see any cracks in the head or block.

Oh, and I almost forgot: it looked like there were two (2) head gaskets. They both stayed stuck to the head, and I haven't removed them yet.

Thanks!


 


Last edited by Tom Bowman on Sun May 05, 2013 12:21 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Jerry/MT
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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 4:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Pulled TO-20 Head...(Pictures) Reply to specific post Reply with quote

the stuff on the head and the psiton appearsto be carbon. The source a rich fuel/air mixture and/or is oil from a loss of oil control.
 
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Tony in Mass.
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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 6:07 pm    Post subject: Re: Pulled TO-20 Head...(Pictures) Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Seen worse! Nothing here an angle grinder and scotchbright pads can't cure. Yeah, it just wasn't running right for a while.
2 head gaskets? Bet one is factory. I hope the previous owner wasn't trying to cure something, but I know some jeep and military vehicle guys double gaskets to get more power.. personally, I wouldn't do it. While you are this far, atleast take the valves out and sotchbright those too. Or... how far are you going to take this project?
 
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Ark68SS
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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 7:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Pulled TO-20 Head...(Pictures) Reply to specific post Reply with quote


DON'T USE SCOTCHBRITE PADS!! The abrasive in the pads can go down between the piston and cylinder wall and score the cylinders and/or the ring lands. The carbon is normal, if you want to get rid of it, bring the piston up to the top and use a scraper or razor blade to get it off. Wipe with a shop rag as you scrape it.
BillL
 
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Tom Bowman
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 4:19 am    Post subject: Re: Pulled TO-20 Head...(Pictures) Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thanks, all.

Tony, this was about as far as I had planned to take this project. (Actually, not quite this far, but you know how that goes.)

I"m not sure I"m up to taking the valves out - I may still take the head in to the shop.

Can I use some kind of solvent on the carbon deposits on the pistons and head?

Jerry, I had some carb issues, so I"m hoping this is the result of a rich fuel-air mix, rather than an oil control problem.

I"ll be putting on GB"s new carb when I put "er back together!
 
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david from mo
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 8:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Pulled TO-20 Head...(Pictures) Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I think the clean spots are from oil. I would replace pistons rings sleeves and bearings. After working over head should be good for 40 years or so! Your tractor do what you want.david
 
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Ark68SS
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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 6:40 am    Post subject: Re: Pulled TO-20 Head...(Pictures) Reply to specific post Reply with quote

david from mo wrote:
(quoted from post at 21:25:08 05/07/13) I think the clean spots are from oil. I would replace pistons rings sleeves and bearings. After working over head should be good for 40 years or so! Your tractor do what you want.david


I have to disagree, the piston tops look fine. I'd take the head to a machine shop, have them pressure test the head for cracks, check the surface for warp, have the valves ground or replaced, check the valve guides for wear and replace if necessary, install new valve seals, and put it back together.
Bring each piston to the top of its stroke and use a scraper or razor blade to get the carbon off the piston top. You can use mineral spirits or brake cleaner to clean it up.
Use the scraper or blade to clean the head mating surface on the top of the block and clean it. You want this surface to be as clean as you can get it so the head gasket get a good seal. I'd also remove the rocker arm assembly before setting the head back on the block. Install the assembly back on after you torque the head to specs.
I've been a professional automobile technician for over 30 years, and I'm advising you of the way I would repair the motor as if it was mine. I believe my email is open if you have any other questions or concerns.
Good luck with the repair,
BillL
 
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Tom Bowman
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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 4:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Pulled TO-20 Head...(Pictures) Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Minor update: I took the head to the preferred cylinder head shop in Kansas City, a third-generation shop that came highly recommended by my local auto mechanic. (They had all kinds, shapes and sizes of heads in there.)

I set the head on the floor (Dang, them things is heavy!) and as the proprietor approached, he said "What have we got here? Ah, a Ferguson head! I haven't seen on of those since... (pointing) that one right over there! Is yours a 20 or a 30?"

I think they'll be able to handle it.

I also left the manifold, as he didn't think there's be any problem resurfacing it where the manifold gasket failed.
 
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