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Early 8N Valve Removal/Replacement

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Jamie Svrcek
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Joined: 16 Oct 2013
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 2:50 pm    Post subject: Early 8N Valve Removal/Replacement Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I know this has been covered many times but, could you guys help me out? I am working on two front mount 8N's. One took water in the manifold somehow and one of the exhaust valves is partially frozen.
Here's my problem. I'm using a C-Clamp type spring compressor to get the valve keepers out. It worked great for the intake valves. But, the exhaust valves have taller rotator caps on this tractor. Even though I fully compress the spring, I still don't have enough room to get the valve keepers out between the rotator cap, and the cap on the end of the valve spring that the keepers sit in.
After reading a couple of other threads, I'm beginning to think that I missed something between what the IT manual said and what I have in front of me. Am I supposed to compress the head side of the spring, and remove the valve guide keeper and then remover the whole assembly?
If so, I'm going to have to get the blue wrench out on this valve. The valve guide assembly is pretty stuck. I'm probably going to have to knock it out from the top.
Also, I've been looking for tappet adjusting tools.Most of the threads that I'm finding covering this subject are pretty old, and what was good info then isn't panning out now. Does anybody know where to get a set of tappet adjusting tools? And for that matter any of the other specialty tools that one needs to service these tractors? I called Snap-On and they said they no longer make anything for the flathead engines....

Thanks in advance
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Location: Jefferson Maine

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 4:43 am    Post subject: Re: Early 8N Valve Removal/Replacement Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Here is a post from Zane on that procedure.
First remove the manifold and the tappet covers.

Fabricate a tool from a big heavy common screwdriver that can be inserted into the valve ports and used to push the valve guides down enough to remove the horseshoe retainers that hold the valve guides at the bottom of the valve guide just above the spring.

When the retainer is removed then it is possible to drive the whole valve assembly out the top of the engine up through the valve port .

The spring keepers can then be removed and the valve assembly disassembled.

Seals are only used on the intake valve guide and they will be the ones that are the hardest to remove from the block because of the old seal being like hardened glue on the outside of the old intake valve guide. Only use guide seals on the intake when reinstalling the valve assemblies.

Name: ZANE
Subject: Re: Removing valves from engine
Body of Message:
The best way I have found to get the valve assemblies out of the block is to use a big flat/spade screwdriver that has been ground down about 1/8 inch or so just up from the tip end about a 1/4" inch or so and long enough space ground down to let the cut out come out past the side of the block.
Place the screwdriver/prybar into the valve port on top of the valve guide close to the valve stem and pull up on the screwdriver/prybar to push the guide down enough to pull out the horse shoe keeper.
Next take that same screwdriver and place the tip end on the spring close to the end of the valve guide and smack it a few good ones with a hammer to drive the guide/valve assembly out the top.
Once it is out the top you can depress the spring and take the keepers off to dis assemble the units. Don't loose the little cup thingies that are on the bottom of the exhaust valves if it has rotating exhaust valves in it.
Only the intake valve guide should have seals installed on them when you go back up. None on the exhaust valve guides.
Acording to Zane
Added on Date: 06:24:39 06/07/06

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