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Tutorial on the LOCKNSTICH method for repairing a crack i...

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FarmerHR
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 9:41 pm    Post subject: Tutorial on the LOCKNSTICH method for repairing a crack i... Reply to specific post Reply with quote

There is a very tight crack in my water jacket on
a newly acquired Ford NAA tractor. The crack is
between a freeze plug and the boss for the oil
filter mounting surface. The crack does not
appear to run to any holes in the block. It weeps
in two places about 1/8 teaspoon in 30 minutes
with the engine running.
I am considering the LOCKNSTICH method. Does
anyone known where I can find a tutorial on this
method ? I have never done one before.
Also should I consider any other method of repair
?
Thank you for your help.
 
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BradTN
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 10:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Tutorial on the LOCKNSTICH method for repairing a crack Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Youtube has several video's.

I've done a cylinder head. The system works if done carefully.
 
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HCooke
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 4:18 am    Post subject: Re: Tutorial on the LOCKNSTICH method for repairing a crack Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I have stitched a block and it has held up for several years. Also have one that was repaired with JB Weld - no leaks in 10 plus years.
 
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souNdguy
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 5:29 am    Post subject: Re: Tutorial on the LOCKNSTICH method for repairing a crack Reply to specific post Reply with quote

small leak like that i might v out and braze up, then clean up the core plug hole.
 
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Tall T
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 7:26 am    Post subject: Re: Tutorial on the LOCKNSTICH method for repairing a crack Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Or Vee it out and LocWeld it and if that fails then braze.

I know that everyone says JB is the ticket and it may very well be the same as LocWeld . . .
but a British car machinist in Victoria B.c. was raving to me one day about cracked MGB HEADS that he repaired with LocWeld. That's a higher level, higher heat repair than a cracked water jacket in the block! Sorry, earlier I said "MGB blocks" by mistake.

So . . . I have always chosen LocWeld. (by the Loctite people) Smile

I believe the secret to the success of the product in block repair applications is that the coefficient of expansion of the epoxy and the casting is the same or so similar that the two don't pull apart from each other when the casting expands with heat.

Here's a blurb:
Loctite LocWeld Epoxy Bonding Compound (Automotive Aftermarket Only)
Loctite® LocWeld™ Epoxy Bonding Compound ia a 15-minute, two-part adhesive and filler system that eliminates the need for welding or brazing. Once cured, it can be drilled, sanded, painted, or filed. Resists most automotive, shop and cleaning fluids. Withstands temperatures to 300°F intermittent. Over 3,000 psi shear strength on steel.

If the coefficient of expansion of JB as being the same as that of LocWeld . . . it probably wouldn't matter which product you chose.

I'm pretty sure that LocWeld pioneered the concept because I never heard of JB till years after I started using LocWeld. JB probably scooped the formula from LocWeld. Smile
 


Last edited by Tall T on Mon Aug 04, 2014 9:12 am; edited 4 times in total
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souNdguy
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:16 am    Post subject: Re: Tutorial on the LOCKNSTICH method for repairing a crack Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Not sure about locweld, but jbweld dates to mid 60's
 
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Welding man
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:32 am    Post subject: Re: Tutorial on the LOCKNSTICH method for repairing a crack Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I have done several blocks and heads. Call Lock N stitch. They will send you the CD's when you order the tools and stitching from them. Don't go into shock when you see the prices of the taps etc. I have never had a come back on a repair that I have made.All depends if you want it fixed right, permanently or just patched up to send it down the road for someone else to deal with.
 
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Tall T
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:44 am    Post subject: Re: Tutorial on the LOCKNSTICH method for repairing a crack Reply to specific post Reply with quote

ah so! (LATE 60's)

The J-B Weld Company was founded in 1969 by Sam and Mary Bonham.

Here's a history of the Loctite corp:
http://www.fundinguniverse.com/company-histories/loctite-corporation-history/

Starts this way:
The story of Loctite Corporation begins at Dr. Vernon Krieble's chemistry laboratory at Trinity College in Hartford, Connecticut, in 1953.

I couldn't see when the LocWeld itself was developed though.

Cheers,
T

P.S.
Sorry but I've got to say that after reading this I would never use JB on any of my engines. They actually put WD-40 in the same category as their JB Weld product!! WD-40 sucks. It has no oxidative stability whatsoever and will turn to gum on a rifle barrel after 6 months at room temperature. Give WD engine heat by using it on Carb linkage and it oxidixesw and turns to glue even quicker. And it DOESN'T cut rust either. It may have its uses like removing lipstick from a window or whatebver but whoever still thinks it is an automotive product is the victim of a sweet smell, a low price a tough sounding name and mass advertizing.

I thought I was seeing things but here from JB's own site:

"We Take Pride in Making It. You Take Pride in Using It.
Ask an avid DIYer, a mechanic, or any repair professional what he has to have in his toolbox, and he’s sure to tell you about tried-and-true staples like duct tape, WD-40®, and of course J-B Weld"

Get serious, go industrial!
In a previous post I mentioned MGB "blocks" but that was a typo!
LOCWELD WILL REPAIR CRACKED HEADS!

Sorry for the rant but it has to be said.
I sold Amsoil MP to the Advance Lock and Safe company in vancouver, and it literally dissolved the GUM that WD-40 was leaving in their safe lock mechanisms. . . AND the Amsoil NEVER OXIDIZED, NEVER turned GUMMY.

One sheet metal man asked me to look at the sticky linkage on his V-8. I hollered into the shop, "What have you been spraying on your linkage, WD-40? He says, "How the H*ll did you know that?" I said that even at room temperature it turns to glue in 6 months on a rifle barrel.

I'm not making this stuff up and I'm not a competitively spirited person.

Terry
 


Last edited by Tall T on Mon Aug 04, 2014 9:40 am; edited 4 times in total
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souNdguy
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 9:46 am    Post subject: Re: Tutorial on the LOCKNSTICH method for repairing a crack Reply to specific post Reply with quote

wd 40 was never meant to be a penetrant.

good at displacing water though!

PS.

wd-40 brand DOES have a penetrant out now. but it is not wd-40. I have not used it... i use pb blaster and kroil mostly..
 
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Tall T
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 9:54 am    Post subject: Re: Tutorial on the LOCKNSTICH method for repairing a crack Reply to specific post Reply with quote


I'll have to try that Blaster and the other but i've never seen them up here in Igloo land.
 
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greywolf224
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 10:08 am    Post subject: Re: Tutorial on the LOCKNSTICH method for repairing a crack Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I've been a gun collector and shooter for 30 plus years. Number one rule is NEVER EVER use WD-40 on any firearms for any reason. Gums everything up when your life may depend on it.

Kroil is very popular with firearms it does what WD-40 claims to do. Many good machinists use it on their fine tools.

But I gotta admit PB blaster has gotten me outta plenty jams.
 
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souNdguy
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 10:24 am    Post subject: Re: Tutorial on the LOCKNSTICH method for repairing a crack Reply to specific post Reply with quote

kroil even says it's safe for gun cleaning. Smile
 
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greywolf224
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 10:44 am    Post subject: Re: Tutorial on the LOCKNSTICH method for repairing a crack Reply to specific post Reply with quote

soundguy wrote:
(quoted from post at 11:24:39 08/04/14) kroil even says it's safe for gun cleaning. Smile


Kroil is actually a cleaner/penetrant and WD-40 a water displacement chemical. Last I used it was to soak an 8N governor I picked up off of ebay for $35. Left it in there for a few days and little elbow grease and it looks better than new.

I also soaked an old Chief Special 38 in Kroil that was heavily rusted for about a week. Other than the pitting in the metal, it shoots just fine.

The only draw back to Kroil is if you need to soak big parts than it costs too much. So that's when I use an old recipe of 2 gals Diesel, 1qt ATF, 1qt 97% rubbing alcohol.
 
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Tall T
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 12:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Tutorial on the LOCKNSTICH method for repairing a crack Reply to specific post Reply with quote


Greywolf,

Glad you mentioned that.
When I used to sell it, gun shops that used Amsoil MP raved about it because it kept customer fingerprints off the barrels and left a nice dry film that never got tacky!

AND it cuts rust like you wouldn't believe as well.
So to me it is the best all around, because as a super rust penetrant it keeps future rust form ever forming on or in the gun, but does so with a LIGHT AND STABLE protective film.

cheers,
T
 
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FarmerHR
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Tutorial on the LOCKNSTICH method for repairing a crack Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thank You for all the thoughtful replies. You have given me several ideas. Thanks again !
 
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