Yesterday's Tractor Co. Parts for Farm Tractors - Compare our Prices!
Click Here or call 800-853-2651 
   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 9N,2N,8N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver
 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   Traditional YT Forum ViewClassic View   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 

9N tractor


 
Post new topic    
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
kendall lee
New User


Joined: 24 Aug 2014
Posts: 5
Location: kentucky

Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 12:31 pm    Post subject: 9N tractor Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I have a Ford Ferguson 9N tractor, possibly 1952 model. I cannot get it started. It has a new battery and new balance resister. I have no fire on top of the coil, but have fire on each post of the ignition, I have fire on ignition side of the resister, but no fire on the coil side of the resister. When key is turned on the resister gets real hot. I've switched post but it does the same thing. I have not found any short. Anyone who may have answers about this problem it would surly be appreciated.
 
Back to top
View user's profile
HCooke
Tractor Guru


Joined: 29 Sep 2006
Posts: 4110
Location: Missouri

Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 12:56 pm    Post subject: Re: 9N tractor Reply to specific post Reply with quote

We are going to need more infor to help you. 9Ns
were made from 1939-42. A 1952 would be an 8N. That
is not important however. But this is - Do you have
a front mount dist (sits directly behind the
radiator)? Or do you have a side mount distributor
(sits on the right hand side of the engine)? Is your
tractor 6 volts or been converted to 12 volts? No
volts on top of the coil means the points are closed
or there is a short inside the dist. Post back and
we will get you going.
 
Back to top
View user's profile
Bruce (VA)
Tractor Guru


Joined: 24 Feb 2003
Posts: 12864
Location: Old Church VA

Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 12:59 pm    Post subject: Re: 9N tractor Reply to specific post Reply with quote

We're going to need a lot more info in order to help you.

Check out John Smith's site to ID your tractor; if it's a 1952, it's not a 9N.

http://www.oldfordtractors.com/idhistory.htm

It's not so much the model of the tractor that is the problem. We need to know if it's 6 volt or 12 volt, and if the coil is on the side of the engine or on the front.

Or......

If the distributor is on the front of the engine & the coil is NOT on top of it, ie, you have a front distributor engine w/ a round coil on it.

You mention a "balance" resistor......it's a ballast resistor. Does it look like the one in the picture? If not, what does it look like?

Post back w/ more info.

75 Tips

 
Back to top
View user's profile Visit poster's website
Dell (WA)
Tractor Guru


Joined: 21 Sep 1998
Posts: 24094


Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 1:12 pm    Post subject: Re: 9N tractor Reply to specific post Reply with quote

kendall........would you believe the "infamous ballast resistor" is supposed to gitt HOT???....burnie-burnie

ALL 4-nipple square can coils need the ballast resistor. When Ford changed to the roundcan coil on the 1950 8N with 5-nipple sidemount dizzy, you no longer needed the ballast resistor. You can count nipples, can't you?

Surprizingly enuff, the ballast resistor hardly ever wears out...but...careless owners leaving the ignition switch on will melt the internal insulation tar and the squarecan coil goes BAD.

The infamous ballast resistor is just like yer household electric lite bulb. Can you tell when yer lite bulb is BAD? Ballast resistor is just the same way. It don't heat/lite up, its BAD. Isn't that amazing???

You claim you have "no fire" at the top of the squarecan coil. Would it surprize you to learn that there is only a straight wire between the coil post and the ballast resistor? Since you claim you have no fire at the ballast resistor yet the ballast resistor gitts HOT, you have a SHORT beween the squarecan coil and the ballast resistor.

First thing I'd due, is replace the 14ga stranded wire between the top of the squarecan coil and the ballast resistor......electrician Dell
 
Back to top
View user's profile
kendall lee
New User


Joined: 24 Aug 2014
Posts: 5
Location: kentucky

Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 4:01 pm    Post subject: Re: 9N tractor Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I think it is a 9n not sure of year, on back of distributor is 9n12131 and it is in front of moter with a square can coil 4 post on engine block is star 9n 73417 star . converted to 12 volt. ballast resistor is 3 inches, white with a post on each end, on one video a man said my test light should light up, but it still does not.
 


Last edited by kendall lee on Sun Aug 24, 2014 4:05 pm; edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View user's profile
Bruce (VA)
Tractor Guru


Joined: 24 Feb 2003
Posts: 12864
Location: Old Church VA

Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 4:52 pm    Post subject: Re: 9N tractor Reply to specific post Reply with quote

" I think it is a 9n not sure of year"

Couldn't find John Smith's website? Here is the address again:

http://www.oldfordtractors.com/idhistory.htm

" on back of distributor is 9n12131 "

That would be the part number for the distributor base.

" on engine block is star 9n 73417 star "

See tip # 71. That might be the serial number; if it is, you have a 1941 9N.

" ballast resistor is 3 inches, white with a post on each end,"

That's not a ballast resistor.

It's a fixed resistor of some unknown value that is probably part of your problem. But, the tractor will run w/ it, so fix that later. (see tip # 30)

The first thing you need to do is put the battery on a charger. (see tip # 60)

You need a strong battery to:

1. Spin the starter

2. Engage the bendix

3. Provide voltage to the coil.

As the battery gets weaker, the first thing to fail is your spark.

The more current you use to spin the starter, the less you have for the ignition.

Assuming that the bushings & advance weights are ok (*see below), & that you have correct voltage to the coil (battery voltage with the points open and about half that with the points closed), the most common electrical failure (no spark, weak spark) points on the front mount are:

1. The insulator under the brass concave head screw & where the copper strip attaches. (it’s fiber & will wear out; poke & prod w/ your meter leads to make sure it still works) If you need to replace the insulator, use a .250 x 3/8 nylon square nylon anchor nut available at most big box home stores

2. The pigtail at the bottom of the coil not making contact w/ the concave head brass screw inside the distributor. (With the coil on, the pigtail must firmly contact the brass screw. No contact = no spark

3. The copper strip is broken or grounded to the plate. (look very carefully for cracks & breaks).

4. The condenser wire grounding to the plate or side of the distributor.

5. The tab on the bottom of the coil not making contact w/ the brass button on the cap. (With the cap on, the tab must firmly contact the brass button. No contact = no spark.)

6. Incorrect positioning of the spring clip on the plate causing the pigtail to ground. (the open part of the clip goes between 7 & 9 o’clock on the plate. That puts the straight part of the clip opposite of the timing screw at 3 o’clock)

7. Incorrect seating of the coil on the distributor due to a loose bail or no gasket.(the coil must not move at all; if it does, replace the gasket or bail. Or stick some cardboard under the bail).

8. Water/moisture inside the cap due to gasket failure or the absence of a gasket. (the cap AND coil have gaskets)

9. Dirty/corroded/burned/incorrectly gapped or misaligned points. I use only Wells, Blue Streak or Echlin brand points (* *see below).

10. Burned rotor, cracked/carbon tracked cap.

After you find the problem & re-check the point gap, do a continuity check before you put the distributor back on the tractor.

With the distributor still off the tractor, follow these steps:

1. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other on both sides of the open points. On the side closest to the cam, you should have continuity. Not on the other side! If you do, you will also have continuity everywhere because the points are grounded.

2. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity! Now, rotate the tang on the distributor....as the points open & close, you have continuity (closed) and lose it when they open.

3. Put the coil on the distributor, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other on the cam side of the open points. You should have continuity!

4. Coil on, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity!

At this point, I just put the distributor, coil & cap all back on the tractor as a unit. The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil misaligned trying to put it back together, one piece at a time. The result is something gets broken or you get a ‘no spark’ problem.

It's possible to put it back on wrong & break it. Look at the slot on the end of the cam shaft. Whatever angle it happens to be, turn the distributor tang to match it. Make sure you can tell the wide side from the narrow side on both the cam & distributor! (close counts). Place the distributor on the front of the engine, gently push it in place & slowly turn the distributor body until you feel the tang slip into the slot. Rotate the distributor body until the bolt holes line up. Hand tighten the two bolts until the distributor body is flush with the timing gear cover.

Post back w/ results or more questions.

And, after the tractor is running, replace that ceramic resistor w/ the OEM ballast resistor & a true 12 volt coil.


* Unscrew the plate hold down screw & remove the C clip to get the plate out. Remove the shaft & weights. The weights should freely move.

* *NAPA part numbers:

• Points: FD-6769X
• Condenser: FD-71
• Rotor: FD-104
• Cap: FD-126
75 Tips

 
Back to top
View user's profile Visit poster's website
kendall lee
New User


Joined: 24 Aug 2014
Posts: 5
Location: kentucky

Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 6:17 pm    Post subject: Re: 9N tractor Reply to specific post Reply with quote

what is the points gap on 1941 9n ford Ferguson, I put in new points and tried to set at 28 but it only opened to 24 ,maybe I have a new problem .
 


Last edited by kendall lee on Sat Aug 30, 2014 6:25 pm; edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View user's profile
Bruce(VA)
Regular


Joined: 14 Oct 2010
Posts: 329


Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 7:33 pm    Post subject: Re: 9N tractor Reply to specific post Reply with quote

kendall lee wrote:
(quoted from post at 03:17:07 08/31/14) what is the points gap on 1941 9n ford Ferguson, I put in new points and tried to set at 28 but it only opened to 24 ,maybe I have a new problem .


.015 is the correct gap.
 
Back to top
View user's profile
kendall lee
New User


Joined: 24 Aug 2014
Posts: 5
Location: kentucky

Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 8:09 pm    Post subject: Re: 9N tractor Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thank you.
 
Back to top
View user's profile
kendall lee
New User


Joined: 24 Aug 2014
Posts: 5
Location: kentucky

Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 1:34 pm    Post subject: Re: 9N tractor Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thank all of you for helping me with my 9n, I GOT IT RUNNING TO DAY ! thanks a lot.
 
Back to top
View user's profile
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic    Yesterday's Tractors Forum Index -> Ford 9N, 2N, 8N All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
TRACTOR   PARTS TRACTOR   MANUALS
Same-Day Shipping! Most of our stocked parts ship the same day you order (M-F).  Expedited shipping available, just call!  Most prices for parts and manuals are below our competitors.  Compare our super low shipping rates!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor.  We are a Company you can trust and have generous return policies!   Shop Online Today or call our friendly sales staff toll free (800) 853-2651.

YT Home  |  Forums Home

Copyright © 1997-2014 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters