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2000 Dodge 318

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oldsarge
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 9:59 pm    Post subject: Re: 2000 Dodge 318 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

It would "pop" and jump a tooth
and I'd crank the dist to start it.after a while it'd jump back and I'd crank the distributor the other way.I mean that chain was WORN OUT
 
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Dave8N in Pa
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 12:28 am    Post subject: Re: 2000 Dodge 318 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

That's kind of what I thought.
 
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Dave8N in Pa
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 12:30 am    Post subject: Re: 2000 Dodge 318 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Yes, but it still pops back.
 
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Dave8N in Pa
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 12:36 am    Post subject: Re: 2000 Dodge 318 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Is that something I can do myself?
 
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Dave8N in Pa
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 12:39 am    Post subject: Re: 2000 Dodge 318 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Not yet Steve, would fuel pressure let it run good cold and?
 
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Dave8N in Pa
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 12:43 am    Post subject: Re: 2000 Dodge 318 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I can try that but my repair manual says that doesn't work on 2000 models.
 
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Dave8N in Pa
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 12:49 am    Post subject: Re: 2000 Dodge 318 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Hello Lyle, good to hear from you. Her surgery went well and she can see a lot better in that eye. Still putting drops in it, but getting much better. Hope to see you this year for threshing days.
 
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Dave8N in Pa
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 12:54 am    Post subject: Re: 2000 Dodge 318 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Sorry about that. Would fuel pressure let it run good cold and start breaking up as it warms up.
 
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Steve@Advance
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 4:19 am    Post subject: Re: 2000 Dodge 318 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

It could.

The ECM enriches the mixture while it's cold.

And the pump could be failing, causing the pressure to drop as the pump heats up.
 
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dcarp
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 5:25 am    Post subject: Re: 2000 Dodge 318 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Most Autozone or OReilleys will pull the codes for you, at no cost. They won't clear any but will let you know what they are.
 
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Married2Allis
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 6:47 am    Post subject: Re: 2000 Dodge 318 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

That's a 5.2 Magnum w/throttle body. Likely it's NOT the timing chain unless the motor has alot of miles. You'll need the right tools to troubleshoot, get a voltmeter and a code reader and engine manual. The throttle body and ignition have electronics that need to be set to specs using a voltmeter. The ignition timing is determined by a fixed-position crank sensor. The distibutor has to be properly indexed. You'll go nuts unless you go through the proper steps to verify the settings.
 
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Paul in MN
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 7:43 am    Post subject: Re: 2000 Dodge 318 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I have an 86 W250 PU with 4 bbl Rochester on the 360 engine and an 88 W350 with same carb on its 360. I think it was in 89 that the throttle body (single port GM type) was used. But according to the Power Wagon website, there was a lot of problems with the early single port injection. But the Rochester quadrajets were not trouble free either.

I did find on these engines that the exhaust gas recycle valve frequently blew out the very thin wall gasket that separated the intake and the exhaust side, allowing a huge amount of exhaust into the incoming gas/air mix => too lean. The EGR valve then has no ability to control the mixture. Most people do not find this problem and thus the hot exhaust gas eats into the intake manifold beneath the EGR, allowing even more hot exhaust into the intake charge. When I finally found this, I took the intake manifold to the Bridgeport mill and made a new surface for the EGR to mate up on. Of course this requires the R&R of the intake manifold. But the diagnosis is easy, just remove the EGR body and scrape the gasket area to see if there is erosion of the wall between intake and exhaust. I had thought about simply removing the EGR system and making a flat cover plate, but that would not seal off the leak through the eroded wall.

My guess is the 318 engine has the same design deficiency on its intake manifold.

Paul in MN
 
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Dave8N in Pa
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 6:36 am    Post subject: Re: 2000 Dodge 318 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

True, but I don't think I want to try to drive it that far.
 
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dcarp
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 7:35 am    Post subject: Re: 2000 Dodge 318 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Just buy your own then. Not very expensive & pretty useful.
[url=http://ANCEL%20AD410%20Enhanced%20OBD%20II%20Vehicle%20Code%20Reader%20Automotive%20OBD2%20Scanner%20Auto%20Check%20Engine%20Light%20Scan%20Tool%20(Black/Yellow)%20https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FSNL73/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MURjAbBV1HKCZ]Poke here[/url]

 
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JRSutton
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 8:49 am    Post subject: Re: 2000 Dodge 318 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Not sure on yours - but try this:

2000 and newer directions:
Turn the key to ON (not start), OFF, ON, OFF, ON and leave it there. If you look in the odometer window the codes will flash any code(s) with a small delay between each result. Each code should be in a P#### format, and will say PDONE when completed - turn your key to OFF and remove. Use the OBD code list to determine what problem the computer detected.


There's no substitute for having the codes. The computer's there to tell you what's wrong, or at least really narrow it down. Mucking around randomly, you stand more chance of breaking something else than you do fixing your problem.

If that trick doesn't work - if you can get a ride to a parts store, they'll either loan or rent you a scanner to use.
 
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