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My 2n won't start

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RawkFarmer
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2017 3:22 pm    Post subject: My 2n won't start Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Hi folks, my 2n 6 volt front distributor model will turn over, but will not start and run. It first was just dead, and I cleaned the battery terminals and replaced the cables, then it would turn over, but not catch and run. I took this opportunity to do a tune up, and replaced the points, rotor and condenser, and put in new autolite 437 plugs. It still will not start.

I set the timing with a buzzer multimeter, and did all of the continuity checks listed by Bruce (VA) in many of these posts. I have checked that the condenser is not grounding, the insulators are intact, as are the copper strip, and the coil pigtail. I am getting spark, and I know that the color isn't too important, but it's sometimes blue, sometimes yellow.

I have my battery on a charger, but last time i tried it, my multimeter was showing enough volts that I don't think that's the issue. So, I'm stumped. I know its not a fuel issue, as I checked fuel flow first thing.

Does anyone have any further suggestions? I don't know what else it could be as far as the distributor and coil.
Thank you!
 
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Bruce (VA)
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2017 4:02 pm    Post subject: Re: My 2n won't start Reply to specific post Reply with quote

What's the voltage at the top of the coil?
Should be battery voltage points open and
about half that points closed.
 
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Bruce (VA)
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2017 4:03 pm    Post subject: Re: My 2n won't start Reply to specific post Reply with quote

And did you dress the points with brown
paper or cardstock? What gap?
 
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RawkFarmer
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2017 4:10 pm    Post subject: Re: My 2n won't start Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thanks, I will check the coil voltage next. I did dress the points with a piece of brown paper bag.
 
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RawkFarmer
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2017 4:12 pm    Post subject: Re: My 2n won't start Reply to specific post Reply with quote

point gap .015, checked on all 4 lobes
 
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520 pipefabricator
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2017 4:20 pm    Post subject: Re: My 2n won't start Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I have an unrelated auestion for you about your 2n, could you email me please?
 
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Bruce (VA)
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2017 4:44 pm    Post subject: Re: My 2n won't start Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Post back with results.
 
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HFJ
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2017 5:50 pm    Post subject: Re: My 2n won't start Reply to specific post Reply with quote

RawkFarmer wrote:
(quoted from post at 19:22:39 11/26/17)

I have my battery on a charger, but last time i tried it, my multimeter was showing enough volts that I don't think that's the issue.


if u connect 5 AAA batteries in series, your multimeter will show, presumably, 7.5 volts. but i'll bet it won't start your tractor Wink

voltage that looks right does not guarantee a good battery. i rarely check a battery with a handheld meter. i've found the behavior of the ammeter on my charger gives me a much better idea of the state a battery is in.
 
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RawkFarmer
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2017 6:05 pm    Post subject: Re: My 2n won't start Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thanks,I'm still learning about how to use it. I usually
just go by the green light on my battery tender.
 
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Tim PloughNman Daley
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 9:57 am    Post subject: Re: My 2n won't start Reply to specific post Reply with quote

HiYa Rawk-
Ok, first, just tossing new parts into the equation isn't going to fix the true root cause, unless you happen to stumble upon the one issue by doing so. How old is the battery? The first thing you need to do is get the battery checked. Your local starter/alternator shop can do this on their bench with special test equipment, and most decent places don't charge for this service. The battery must withstand a charge under load. Simply cleaning off the terminals and replacing cables isn't the answer. You need good HD, thick as your thumb battery cables with a 6-volt system. The smaller cables used on 12 volt systems will not do. Get your copy of Brice(VA)'s 75 Tips for N-Owners and use it as a guide. The original 8N Ford electrical systems were 6-volts/positive ground. They use a generator with a voltage regulator. How is your 6-v battery connected? Once you verify battery is fully charged and good, and wiring is correct, and you are getting a good park, the next thing is fuel. There is simple test to verify fuel is getting the carb. See 75 Tips as well. Explain what you mean by 'setting the timing by buzzer multimeter'. The only way to set the timing on the front mount distributor is to have it on your bench or kitchen table and rebuild it there. Points are set, gapped at .015" -no timing light required, no other method to do this. The distributor timing then is automatically set when you mount it with the offset tang properly inserted on the engine. Missing something else too -what do you mean by checked gap at .015" on all four lobes? Do the basic tests for spark (you say you have one)after you get a good battery. Charging a battery is not just going to guarantee it is good. It isn't the VOLTS, its the AMPS that are required when cranking over these engines. You can take a 6-volt dry cell battery, four D size batteries, 4 AA batteries, or 4 AAA batteries and have 6-volts, but none will crank your engine because they do not have the proper amount of AMPS to do so. Once spark is determined to be good, the next step is to check for fuel flow. The quickest way is to take an empty container like a coffee can and place underneath the carb. With the engine COLD, loosen the drain plug on the bottom of the carb, open the Fuel Sediment Bulb Valve 2 full turns, and observe if you have sufficient fuel flow. If none or stops and starts, there's the probable problem. I prefer to check a bit differently. Instead of loosening the carb drain plug, I loosen the fuel line at the carb brass elbow inlet and slip off to the side aiming it down into the coffee can. Then open the valve 2 turns and observe if gas flows at a nice, almost pencil thick steady stream uninterrupted. hesitation, stopping, starting weak streams all indicate sediment bulb has plugged screens. Lastly, search out Wiring Pictograms by JMOR and download a copy. It has all the correct ways to wire these old N's whether 6-volt or 12-volt. Lastly, if you need help rebuilding your distributor, feel free to contact me as I do these all the time as well as carbs, water pumps, generators, starters, governors, and the occasional 8-track player... ; > )

Tim Daley(MI)
 
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RawkFarmer
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 5:31 pm    Post subject: Re: My 2n won't start Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Bruce, my readings were done with 1 probe on the top coil terminal, and the other grounded, meter set to "ACV~" highest reading while bumping the starter was 1.9

Time for a new battery?
 
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Bruce (VA)
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 6:16 pm    Post subject: Re: My 2n won't start Reply to specific post Reply with quote

You are checking for voltage to the coil. Your starter has nothing to do with that.

Do it again.

Turn the key on and check the voltage.

Turn the engine by hand until the points open or close to get 2 readings. Or bump the starter.

See tip # 49 to check the battery.
75 Tips

 
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RawkFarmer
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 6:26 pm    Post subject: Re: My 2n won't start Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Afraid I don't understand: I was bumping the starter to turn the engine. While the engine turned, switch on (previous owner put in a toggle switch instead of a key), probes at the coil, I got readings that fluctuated between numbers lower than 1 and 1.9. I will try again.
 
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deanostoybox
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 6:50 pm    Post subject: Re: My 2n won't start Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I think meter should be set to DC volts, not AC volts.

later
deano
 
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RawkFarmer
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 7:36 pm    Post subject: Re: My 2n won't start Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thanks.
 
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