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Shifting a 706 with implements


 
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Mgroshong
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Joined: 19 Dec 2017
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 11:33 pm    Post subject: Shifting a 706 with implements Reply to specific post Reply with quote

This is my first post on this forum so I hope it's in the right place. I have been searching for clarification on shifting and starting out while loaded with my 706d.

Now my tractor has a loader and gets used for basic chore work and snow removal most times but one thing that I have never felt 100% confident on is how I select gears while loaded down.

Currently I will just select the range and gear I feel I need for the speed I want to travel. But if I am wanting to travel faster say 3 or 4 hi, I feel it either slips the clutch or there is some mechanism allowing it to spool up if you will. And i may seem ignorant of its operation but i usually only operate it in low range 99% of the time so worrying about clutch slip has not been much of an issue.

Reason I am asking as I plan to disc/ till up about 2 acres I have for a future pasture as it is overgrown from the last time it was a usable pasture maybe 10+ year ago before I owned the property. I just want to start over with this section.

Any help on the proper shifting technique while running a disc or plow, and if I am hurting the clutch when starting out in a hi gear from a stop for decent road speed.

Also is a 4 bottom plow and 12 ft disc to optimistic for the 706d (d282)? Btw I'm in west central MN

Hope this wasn't to long winded. Thanks
 
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BarnyardEngineering
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 4:17 am    Post subject: Re: Shifting a 706 with implements Reply to specific post Reply with quote

You'll do more damage grinding the gears while trying to shift on the fly than you'll do slipping the clutch a little bit starting out.

Use the TA to help when starting out in the higher gears. 3rd HI with the TA back is about as easy to start out in as 2nd HI with the TA ahead, and once you're going you can kick the TA ahead and get up to speed.

There is a technique for shifting these NON-synchronized transmissions on the fly, double-clutching, but it takes practice and skill, and sounds AWFUL when you're trying to learn, and mess up.
 
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rustred
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 5:59 am    Post subject: Re: Shifting a 706 with implements Reply to specific post Reply with quote

lots easier on the clutch to start out with the implement not fully deepened, then deepen once your moving.
 
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Mgroshong
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 12:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Shifting a 706 with implements Reply to specific post Reply with quote


Thank for the reply guys.

I never knew you could start out with the TA back, ha call me a bit uneasy to use it for anything unless really necessary as the stories that circle around about burning it up with misuse.
 
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Brendon-KS
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Joined: 18 Dec 2007
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Location: Goessel, KS

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 6:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Shifting a 706 with implements Reply to specific post Reply with quote

"Misuse" is the key word here. If used correctly a TA will last a long time and add greatly to the
versatility of the tractor. Don't feather it - shift it quickly from one range to the other - and
don't use it as a brake to slow down from a high speed and it will serve you well. This of course
assumes that it wasn't abused in a prior life and is getting worn out already.
 
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DR. EVIL
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 8:20 pm    Post subject: Re: Shifting a 706 with implements Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I rarely ever started out with a plow in the ground. If Dad or whoever I was working for wanted to talk to
me they would wait on the headlands. I'd do all the plowing & disking in spring and seldom ever need the
clutch adjusted, typically every 2-3 years. Dad plowed one afternoon once and I don't know what happened
but all the free travel was gone on the tractor clutch. Same thing with a disk, start moving then lower
the disk.

A friend, co-worker used to get ground hog feed at a different mill than we used, hauled it all with a 706
Gas and Grain-O-Vator tandem axle 2 compartment auger wagon with pivoting unloading auger. It probably
weighed 2000 pounds empty and he always got 8000 to 10,000# of feed. He'd take off, shift from 3-High to 4-
High and shove the TA ahead and still have to brake hard to stop in just a bit over a city block.

Every 706 I ever seen pulled a 4 bottom plow. Low range 3rd or 4th gear depending on conditions. With a 12
ft disk you might be able to run in high range 1st gear, but in loose plowed ground low range 4th gear.

There were a lot of 706's around where I grew up about 20 miles east of the Farmall Plant where they were
built, mostly gas engines, no 806's.
 
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