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Changing Rear tires of Farmall H.


 
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wonderingAl
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 9:45 pm    Post subject: Changing Rear tires of Farmall H. Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Am wanting to change out rear tires on farmall H. Would like to have knowledge, step-by-step if possible. Also, any special instructions on wheel weights or the potential oc the chloride solution within the tire? Method of draining? Bracing of the rear end? torque numbers on the bolts?? Any and all pertaining information that would result in a most satisfactory outcome would be greatly appreciated.
thank you all.
 
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Bob Kerr
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 10:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Changing Rear tires of Farmall H. Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I just had the tires changed on my H. they charged $30 to do it at his shop and it may be money well spent. It isn"t hard to do if you have the bead breakers, and the right tire tools, but you have to be careful putting the tube back in so you don"t get it pinched and that will cause a leak. The cost of buying the tools and possibly wrecking the new tube are something to consider if you have never changed a tire by hand. I jack mine up on the forward part of the drawbar so the jack is inline up to the axle. We changed the tires right on the tractor without pulling the rim off. If you have water in the tires it will have to come out first and I am not sure how to do that without the special valve tools and making a big brown spot in the yard from dead grass. Getting the tire off you have to get the bead broken and push one side of the tire into the rim offset and then start prying the tire off on the opposite side. When you get that off pull out the tube and then get the other side into the offset and start prying that off. They pretty much go back on the same way, but in reverse. Just be sure to pay attention the which side the valve stem is on and be careful with the tube and prying the tire back on so the tools don"t go in too far and rip the tube. Setting the bead don"t put in more than 35lbs in the tire or follow the pressure lable on the tire, then let the air back out to 15-20lbs or so before moving the tractor. If you have water in the tires, I would let the pros do it. that calcium can rust out a rim in short order if even a little bit gets on the rim. and the brown spot in the yard may last a couple years. If the rim is rusty inside and especially around the valve stem hole, that can be a problem in itself and may require a new rim or a repair to the rim. One other tool that is required will be a good back and help to do the job.
 
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Nebraska Cowman
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 3:48 am    Post subject: Re: Changing Rear tires of Farmall H. Reply to specific post Reply with quote

No, that's not something I can walk you trough step by step. You would be wise to hire it done by a professional. And no, you don't need to take the rim off the tractor. You can take the tractor in or most ag tire shops have a service truck and will come to your site.
 
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Randy in NE
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 4:04 am    Post subject: Re: Changing Rear tires of Farmall H. Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I would agree with Nebraska Cowman and Bob. Pay to have it done. I had a tire replaced on my C a couple of years ago. For $25.00 they came over to my brother"s shop. They used his air but I stood there and watched the cloud of rusty dust swirling around as he pulled the old tube off of the rim and wire brushed the inside of the rim. My brother had the tools so we could have done it ourselves but it was money well spent.
 
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neblinc
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 4:39 am    Post subject: Re: Changing Rear tires of Farmall H. Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Take a look at the link below if you want to see how it is done, then decide for yourself if you have the tools and know-how.

http://www.gemplers.com/pages/tech/tchange.aspx

Randy
 
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Fancy Farm
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 6:59 am    Post subject: Re: Changing Rear tires of Farmall H. Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Let someone who knows what they ae doing do that job. around here you won't get a service call for $30 but it is still cheeper than being injured. I have the bead braker and tools and I won't change one.
 
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Rootsy
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 7:47 am    Post subject: Re: Changing Rear tires of Farmall H. Reply to specific post Reply with quote


Been changing my own tractor tires and tubes since I was a teenager. Rears aren't that bad to do but some fronts can be stubborn. I beat on the bead with the chopper for an hour on a 6.50 - 16 a couple of weeks ago before it broke.

If you have another tractor with a front end loader an easy way to break the bead on a rear tractor tire is to lay it down and use the edge of the loader placed on the tire just outside the rim to break the bead...

BTW, eventhough i've done countless tube changes I still managed to pinch a brand new tube in that front tire... have to admit I cussed a bit during that whole ordeal.

If it is full of fluid I have a pump and hose rigged up that will thread over the valve stem. I attach it with the valve stem at the top of the tire... I then either jack up and rotate the tire til the valve stem is straight down or i just move the whole tractor... Pump just speeds up the draining.. when the fluid gets below the valve stem I insert a very small poly tube into the tire (shrader valve is removed) and suck it out... takes a while with such a small orfice...
 
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old
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 8:17 am    Post subject: Re: Changing Rear tires of Farmall H. Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Unless you know what your doing it can be a real pain to do them and it can also be unsafe for you to do them. As far as a step by step on how to do them it would take up way to much writeing to do so. That said if you find the correct owners manual some of them have what your looking for in them. I have a ford NAA owners manaul that has 3 pages telling you just how to do what your wanting to do, but theres also others that will have the same info
Hobby farm

 
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jpl
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 9:59 am    Post subject: Re: Changing Rear tires of Farmall H. Reply to specific post Reply with quote

if your pinching front inner tubes, sprinkle them good with talcum powder or baby powder, it makes them slide easier and less likly to pinch them, works great for mc tires also.
 
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ScottyHOMeY
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 12:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Changing Rear tires of Farmall H. Reply to specific post Reply with quote

PROVIDED they AREN'T loaded, you could take the tires and rims off the wheels. But that involves a lot of blocking and jacking, and knowing what you're doing about that, which involves a lot of stuff (equipment, experience and know-how). You've had good advice below in that regard, but there's always the chance you'll miss something and drop the tractor. There's a lot to it.

The best advice I see below is to either trailer it to the tire shop or have them come out. When you see the process, a lot of the explanations and cautions will be clearer, but I hope you'll see the need for caution. Loaded tires, cast iron and gravity do not combine well with flesh and bones.

However . . . if your tires are loaded, and you have a gravel driveway with a dust problem, you could, before you call in the pros (and ONLY as long as you have a way to get air back into the tires afterward) park the tractor on the driveway with the valve stems down, and drain the CaCl onto the gravel. It'll hold down the dust for a while and, if you don't get much rain, help with melting the first snow or two. Just don't let it get on the grass or anywhere else that you might want sopmething to grow in the next couple/three years! And rinse the rims thoroughly with LOTS of water as soon as you're done!
 
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T_Bone
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Joined: 27 Aug 2000
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 6:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Changing Rear tires of Farmall H. Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Hi Al,

Like they say a picture is worth a thousand words so take a look at the Gempler's website for that. Safety first!

The only thing I do different is too use a wood splitting wedge to bust the beads. Just set the tappered end in the rubber to steel edge and lightly tap once then move the wedge 3" and repeat 4times and the bead will easy pop, then do the inside bead the same way.

On a stubbern bead use a small amount of 50% dish soap/water mix. Do not beat on the hammer harder as it won't help. You may have to move more than 4 times or rework the area if you don't hold the wedge in the right spot, but doubtful.

Dulled crow bars also work well for tire irons. Any thing to do with rubber needs a smoothed rolled edge.

The tubes like corn starch as a slipper agent. I always fill the tire up to about 20psi, after the bead is set, then let it blow down then refill for set pressure. This allows the tube to unfold inside the tire.

Here they want $150/tire for a service call. It takes me less than 1hr to remove and install a tire and tube, and I'm crippled up.

Besure and read about tire repairing safety while your searching for the info.

T_Bone
 
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