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turn up the fuel screw

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4240 turbo
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 12:01 pm    Post subject: turn up the fuel screw Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I was posting a few months back on the Roosa master fuel screw and was working on the tractor to day and remembered about my posts. I was told that there was a fuel screw under the top cover of the pump. Is this the 3 screw cover on the very top of the pump? By the way the tractor is a 4240 M&W turbo kit. I was reading some books on those pumps and they mentioned a fuel pressure screw and a fuel mediation valve, do these play a part too?
 
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Bob
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 12:54 pm    Post subject: Re: turn up the fuel screw Reply to specific post Reply with quote



The "HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS" method of setting the max fuel screw is shown in the above photo.

(If the leaf spring has been shimmed, the screw can't be turned CW to set up the max fuel rate.)






The proper, correct, precision bench method of setting the max fuel screw is shown in the photos above.
 
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4240 turbo
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 1:28 pm    Post subject: Re: turn up the fuel screw Reply to specific post Reply with quote

So you have to turn the pump to the proper place to get the screw and the hole to line up? Also is this just the leaf spring adjustment? or the inlet orifice? and one more thing, if the pump is turned up, is it necessary to adjust the pressure or will it remain consistent?
 
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HTR
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 3:56 pm    Post subject: Re: turn up the fuel screw Reply to specific post Reply with quote

The 4240 uses a DM four roller/plunger pump.It will have two leaf springs. If you shade tree the setting, try to get the same amount of turn on both screws.

As far as the inlet to the plungers there is plenty of capacity without any modification. When you tighten the screw in the leaf spring, it expands the end of the leaf spring, and allows the plungers to come out farther, thus more charge behind the plungers.

Properly setting the roller dimension, on the DM pump, is done with a special fixture dial indicator. Can require select fit of rollers and shoes.

I didn't realize M&W supplied a kit for the 4240, but if it ls like the older kits, new wider springs came with the kit.

I think you have enough transfer pressure to fully charge the plungers.
 
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4240turbo
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 4:33 pm    Post subject: Re: turn up the fuel screw Reply to specific post Reply with quote

The pump appears to be wired shut still and the M&W manual doesn't mention anything of the injector pump. How do U know if there is shims under the leaf springs? how are those dealt with? how far should the springs be tightened down for 10-20 horse? thanks for the help.
 
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4240 turbo
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 4:41 pm    Post subject: Re: turn up the fuel screw Reply to specific post Reply with quote

also, how hard is the screw to turn? Do I need a set of ratchet drive allens or will a normal L shape work?
 
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Glen D Anderson
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 4:51 pm    Post subject: Re: turn up the fuel screw Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I have no advice to give you in regards to turning up the pump but I would definitely suggest installing a pyrometer..........and to monitor it CLOSELY when operating the tractor under loaded conditions............it might save a hole in a piston..........
 
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4240turbo
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 5:16 pm    Post subject: Re: turn up the fuel screw Reply to specific post Reply with quote

The tractor has a good pyro and the injectors, filters, belts, radiator and fan are all in good shape. I am a tinkerer and enjoy tuning on everything I own from my dirtbikes to my dodge diesel truck. I know the previous owner didn't ever turn it up and that accounts for about the last 15 years I don't even know if I will turn it up being as I am at 6000 ft above sea level and egts run hot up here all the time anyway. I will run the tractor and see if the power is sufficient but it might get turned down. I also have a 1070 case that is the same HP as the JD (before the turbo kit) and that tractor has a shade more power for plowing anyway but the JD pulls OK. I think the JD might get dynoed if I feel the need but I bet it's not much over the stock 110. M&W recommended 136 hp with the turbo kit. I know I'm nowhere close to that.
 
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LarrySTN
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 5:24 pm    Post subject: Re: turn up the fuel screw Reply to specific post Reply with quote

The screw will turn rather stiff. 1/8 turn will be a good start, though most of those pumps had shimms that prevented much "turn-up".
 
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LarrySTN
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 5:34 pm    Post subject: Re: turn up the fuel screw Reply to specific post Reply with quote

The screw will turn rather stiff. 1/8 turn will be a good start, though most of those pumps had shimms that prevented much "turn-up".
 
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 6:22 pm    Post subject: Re: turn up the fuel screw Reply to specific post Reply with quote

thanks for the input. How do I know if there are shims or not? if there aren't, is it easy to go too far? and if there are shims, how hard are they to remove? I want to know where the pump is set, not let the shims tell me where it is set.
 
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LarrySTN
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 8:26 pm    Post subject: Re: turn up the fuel screw Reply to specific post Reply with quote

1/8 turn should give you about the 135 hp you are looking for. Don't get carried away with lots of power if you intend to work the tractor hard. You don't want more power than you can easily keep cool. Your 4240 also is not intercooled to help keep intake charge much cooler. Your 4240 should be good for 150 hp without serious trouble but the limiting factor is usually having enough radiator. Back to the shims...if your pump has shims it will be impossible to turn the screw past the point of contact with the shims. The pump has to be disassembled to remove the shims.
 
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 9:00 pm    Post subject: Re: turn up the fuel screw Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thanks. How hard is the pump to tear down and reseal and remove the shims? 1/8 turn is good for 135 horse, huh. I know of a farmer around here that turboed a 4240 then put the 4440 pump on it and it would run a 3 row corn chopper in good corn. It would overheat but they did it and that tractor lasted about 9000 hours till they traded it in. still ran fine was just wore out. The farmer said that the tractor was 200 horse at one time then it got pinched down to the 160-180 horse range for most of it's years. He told me that my tractor would make thet much power with that rotary pump if it was turned up. That farmer had another 4240 that he turboed and left the small pump on it and he said it wasn't a problem to see 150-160 out of it all day long. My neighbor also has a turboed 4240 with a 4440 pump and head and that tractor was 160 when it was converted without any turning up then it was turned down to about 125-130 to avoid a heating problem. I think mine is about 115-120 judging by the way pulls but it smokes none and hasn't heated yet so I think I will adjust it and see where it stands then. I onsy need the power in the spring when plowing and ripping demand it after that it doesn't matter.
 
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LarrySTN
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 9:52 pm    Post subject: Re: turn up the fuel screw Reply to specific post Reply with quote

We had a 4240 in our shop, the customer wanted it turboed. The RoosaMaster failed a few years after we installed turbo. We install 4440 pump. His son turned it all the way up and scorched the engine. We rebuilt the engine and tested at the "turned up" power....240hp! We set it back to 160 with strict orders NOT to turn up. It has lasted several years that way. The RoosaMaster is not really hard to disassemble and put back together. What you need is a very good break-down so you can see what you need to do.
 
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dieseldoc
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 8:41 am    Post subject: Re: turn up the fuel screw Reply to specific post Reply with quote

MY 4440 runs 230 hp on dyno with just the fuel turned up and a 3LM turbo. It does not overheat I have a good radiator and an aftercooler. I pull a gehl 1275 chopper with a 3row head and a kernel proccesor and never have any trouble and it uses a third less fuel then my 4955.It has got 9800 hours and motor has never been touched except for valve adjustments and a injector or two. Dont let anyone bs you those 466 engines will take alot of hp as long as you are sensible with them. By the way I dont run pyrometers in any of my tractors. I would go find a bosch A pump and install that instead of the roosamaster. They are better pumps and it only takes 5 minutes to adjust the fuel screw. Turn it up and have fun.
 
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