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Patrick Slavinski

Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 29

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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 4:04 am    Post subject: FORD 8N OIL CHANGE Reply to specific post Reply with quote

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Bruce (VA)
Tractor Guru

Joined: 24 Feb 2003
Posts: 16281
Location: Old Church VA

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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 4:29 am    Post subject: Re: FORD 8N OIL CHANGE Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Pick the weight of the oil by the condition of the engine (oil pressure) & the outside temperature. Many folks use 30w detergent all year. A straight weight oil is probably ok in a hot climate, but you will get excessive engine wear on startup in cold climates. (That’s one reason multi-vis oil was invented) A worn engine is going to need a heavier weight oil to maintain oil pressure at operating speed & temp. Many use 10w30, 15w40 or even 20w50. Some like the newer diesel rated oil because of the additives for the flat tappets & highly recommend Shell Rotella T 15-40 (I'm not convinced that my 2400 rpm N engine needs the same oil as my 65 Mustang did) Anyway, IMHO, use a multi-vis detergent oil. Increase the weight if the engine has low oil pressure. And, BTW, switching to detergent oil is not going to loosen up the sludge in the engine. While choosing oil brands & weights are sometimes subjective, the use of detergent vs non-detergent shouldn’t be debatable given the oil available today. Plenty of studies disprove the “stir up the sludge” myths; here is one:

Change the oil when the engine is hot. If you have the OEM fittings, you will need a 1-1/16” open end wrench for the drain plug & a 7/8” box end wrench for the oil filter canister bolt. If your canister has a drain plug, you will need a 7/16” box end wrench for that. (If it doesn’t, suction it out or wick it out w/ rags) Make sure your waste oil pan holds 6 quarts. Look at the size of that drain plug; the first 5 quarts of oil will come out, along w/ the plug, in about 2 seconds, so get the pan as close as possible to the bottom of the pan. Or, get out the Kitty Litter because you will have oil splashed all over the place. Have a new oil plug gasket on hand or be prepared to make one. Clean the pan squeaky clean of all previous gasket sealer & the old gasket. Do not use Permatex or any other sealer except Never-Sieze on the new gasket. Make sure your drain plug has the screen on it. If not, get a new plug. Clean the screen. I use NAPA 1010 oil filters. Do not forget to use a quarter size gasket under the bolt holding the top of the oil filter canister. Do not forget to use the 7/8” wrench to snugly tighten the bolt on the top of the canister. (Don't ask!). Most oil filters come w/ the large ring gasket; wet it w/ oil first. Add 6 quarts of oil & save a little for the cup in the air filter.

Now, having said all of the above.......I assume you're asking about engine oil. If it's hydraulic oil, see tips 3 & 4 below.
50 Tips

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Tractor Guru

Joined: 08 Apr 2005
Posts: 9412
Location: Myersville, MD

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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 4:37 am    Post subject: Re: FORD 8N OIL CHANGE Reply to specific post Reply with quote

(quoted from post at 08:04:13 05/20/09) HI GUYS: I WANT TO CHANGE THE OIL ON MY FORD 8N. WHAT OIL DO I USE AND HOW MUCH?

The original Ford recommendation was SAE 30 for summer use and SAE 20 for winter use. So any good quality detergent motor oil meeting the SAE 30/SAE 20 specification is appropriate:

SAE 30 (summer use)
SAE 20 (winter use)
SAE 10W30 (year round use)

If the motor is worn and oil pressure is low you might consider a slightly heavier grade to help improve the pressure:

SAE 40 (summer)
SAE 15W40 (year round)
SAE 20W50 (year round)

Let the FUD begin ...

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D Squared

Joined: 23 Apr 2007
Posts: 382

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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 6:08 am    Post subject: Re: FORD 8N OIL CHANGE Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Don't get hung up on 50 year old technology. The owners manual says add a quart of kerosine in the winter. Things have changed.

To save me a lot of hunt and peck typing.............What Bruce said.
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