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Engine oil for ford 9n


 
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rluscomb
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:36 am    Post subject: Engine oil for ford 9n Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Anyone know the engine oil capacity for the ford 9n, and what is a good weight to run in the Florida heat. Also would it hurt if i put in an additive such as lucas, or motor medic, etc. Thanks for the help. Robert
 
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Ultradog MN
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:53 am    Post subject: Re: Engine oil for ford 9n Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I'd say any good brand of 15W 40 would do.
Most snake oil/additives will do no harm to your engine.
 
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Dell (WA)
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:55 am    Post subject: Re: Engine oil for ford 9n Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Robert......surprizingly enuff, engine oil capacity and viscosity is listed in yer N-Owners manual, ($12, cheap) but fer the manual reading challenged, Ford recommended 6-qts 30wt detergent oil every 200hr or annual fall oil and filter change. Howsomevers, Ford also recommended 40wt detergent oil in HOT CLIMATES. Ford also recommended adding 1-qt of kerosene in cold weather. We don't do that now.

While modern multi-weight oil is much improved over single weight oils, remember 10w-30 or 20w-40 is thin oil base stock with temperature thickening additives.

Stay with 40wt detergent with yer N-Engine in Florida .......Dell
 
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rluscomb
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 8:03 am    Post subject: Re: Engine oil for ford 9n Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I do appreciate the info. Thanks a bunch-Robert
 
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Bruce (VA)
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 8:05 am    Post subject: Re: Engine oil for ford 9n Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Pick the weight of the oil by the condition of the engine (oil pressure) & the outside temperature. Many folks use 30w detergent all year. A straight weight oil is probably ok in a hot climate, but you will get excessive engine wear on startup in cold climates. (That’s one reason multi-vis oil was invented) A worn engine is going to need a heavier weight oil to maintain oil pressure at operating speed & temp. Many use 10w30, 15w40 or even 20w50. Some like the newer diesel rated oil because of the additives for the flat tappets & highly recommend Shell Rotella T 15-40 (I'm not convinced that my 2400 rpm N engine needs the same oil as my 65 Mustang did) Anyway, IMHO, use a multi-vis detergent oil. Increase the weight if the engine has low oil pressure. And, BTW, switching to detergent oil is not going to loosen up the sludge in the engine. While choosing oil brands & weights are sometimes subjective, the use of detergent vs non-detergent shouldn’t be debatable given the oil available today. Plenty of studies disprove the “stir up the sludge” myths; here is one:



http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#Detergent%20Oil



Change the oil when the engine is hot. If you have the OEM fittings, you will need a 1-1/16” open end wrench for the drain plug & a 7/8” box end wrench for the oil filter canister bolt. If your canister has a drain plug, you will need a 7/16” box end wrench for that. (If it doesn’t, suction it out or wick it out w/ rags) Make sure your waste oil pan holds 6 quarts. Look at the size of that drain plug; the first 5 quarts of oil will come out, along w/ the plug, in about 2 seconds, so get the pan as close as possible to the bottom of the pan. Or, get out the Kitty Litter because you will have oil splashed all over the place. Have a new oil plug gasket on hand or be prepared to make one. Clean the pan squeaky clean of all previous gasket sealer & the old gasket. Do not use Permatex or any other sealer except Never-Sieze on the new gasket. Make sure your drain plug has the screen on it. If not, get a new plug. Clean the screen. I use NAPA 1010 oil filters. Do not forget to use a quarter size gasket under the bolt holding the top of the oil filter canister. Do not forget to use the 7/8” wrench to snugly tighten the bolt on the top of the canister. (Don't ask!). Most oil filters come w/ the large ring gasket; wet it w/ oil first. Add 6 quarts of oil & save a little for the cup in the air filter.

Don't waste your money on snakeoil additives. While most won't hurt or help, some will hurt.
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Gaspump
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 9:02 am    Post subject: Re: Engine oil for ford 9n Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Your option, and it depends on the condition of your engine too. I have used only SAE 30 year around for over 30 years in all of my N's here in FL and am very satisfied with the results. Don't use 40w unless your engine is very loose. By the way, Ford specs were to use SAE 30 when temps are over 90, they never recommended 40W. No additional additives are needed.
 
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ssickel
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 9:22 am    Post subject: Re: Engine oil for ford 9n Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Bruce, where can you buy a "oil plug gasket", TSC maybe? Thanks Scott
 
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Bruce (VA)
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 9:43 am    Post subject: Re: Engine oil for ford 9n Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I don't buy many N parts at TSC, so I can't say if they have oil plug gaskets. I'm sure this site does & I know just8N's does. But, shipping will cost you more than the gasket. Go to NAPA (or any auto store) and get some gasket paper & make your own. Paper, not cork. Or, if you're really tight.....a cereal box.
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ssickel
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 11:50 am    Post subject: Re: Engine oil for ford 9n Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thanks Bruce
 
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gahorN
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine oil for ford 9n Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Bruce (VA) wrote:
(quoted from post at 12:05:20 10/12/09) ...A straight weight oil is probably ok in a hot climate, but you will get excessive engine wear on startup in cold climates. (That’s one reason multi-vis oil was invented) ...



(Putting on Devil's advocate hat) Twisted Evil

Respectfully.....1- Nope. And 2- Nope.

Cold climate startup may prolong oil-pressure buildup, ... but straight-wt oil also does not drain off parts and is still "in situ" and lubricating during start, whereas thinner oils drain off ...which creates excessive wear unless oil pressure is quick to rise. (Solution: engine preheating or storage in a warm bldg, and low idling until oil pressure is registered. Exception: VERY cold wx, such as below zero where only very thin oils will pressurize quickly.)

Multi-wt oils were "invented" to assist autos to meet EPA mileage requirements imposed by the federal govt. It just so happens that they pump very easily when cold.

Your mileage/opinion may vary. Wink
 


Last edited by gahorN on Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:34 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Bruce (VA)
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine oil for ford 9n Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I respectfully disagree!

"Multi-wt oils were "invented" to assist autos to meet EPA mileage requirements imposed by the federal govt. It just so happens that they pump very easily when cold."

Nope.

Nixon was President when the EPA came into being, about 1972 as I recall. M/V oil was around in the 50's.

"but straight-wt oil also does not drain off parts and is still "in situ" and lubricating during start, whereas thinner oils drain off ..."

Nope again!

Here is the shortest & best answer to that question I've read lately, courtesy of TOH:

"1) Multigrade oils were developed to address the PRIMARY INADEQUACY of single grade oils - i.e. poor pumping in cold weather with a resultant loss of protection and accelerated wear on cold startup. This is the environment in which the vast majority of motors are operated. Northern parts of the US are particularly harsh environments.

2) The compromise inherent in early multigrades (better protection vs. shorter oil life) have been virtually eliminated in modern products - Mobil 1 for example has a grade life of 10-15K (will run 10-15K miles and still maintain the graded viscosity) - far longer than any conventional single grade (about 5-7K).

3) Many modern synthetics do not rely on viscosity enhancing additives to acheive their multi-grade rating. Because they are synthesized they simply have a better performing (as compared to mineral oils) molecular structure from the start.

4) I'd think you would be hard pressed to find any motor oil on the general market that isn't loaded with additives of one sort or another.

5) The automotive engineering community does not share your opinion that single grade oils out perform multigrades in general usage. That's why automotive manufactureres now specify multigrade lubricants for their vehicles and recommend against the use of single grades."

Here is some more info:

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#Detergent%20Oil


And some more:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm
 
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 2:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine oil for ford 9n Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I fixed an 8N leaker that had a laminated gasket.The paper part was gone, just an aluminum piece with pick marks to hold the paper.This is not a simple gasket.
 
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Bruce (VA)
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 3:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine oil for ford 9n Reply to specific post Reply with quote

That's a pretty hi-tech gasket for a low-tech application.

I've got 3 gray paper gaskets in a CNH bag, p/n 8N6734. I've also got a tan paper one & a pretty teal blue one from somewhere that might be some sort of composite material. Of the 3 varieties, none have metal in them & only one isn't clearly paper.
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