12 volt conversion 1946 2N

[ED-IL]

My son and I finished up installing the alternator on my 1946 2N yesterday. All that is left is to install a battery and give it a try. Take a look at the photo - the installation is pretty snug.

Any suggestions as to the CCA of the battery and is it best to attach the pos or neg first?

 

[ED-IL]

installation looks even more snug in this image

 

[Dell (WA)]

Ed........12v and yer worrying about CCA??? Appropriately converted, you can run DAYS without having to recharge enny 12v battery, don't need the alternator. But its better to have an alternator ennyways, sumptin' to hold the fanbelt so you don't overheat, eh?

Even the cheapest size #22 or #35 12v battery will outlast enny cold weather you Illinois guys can come up with.

ALWAYS flatbelt ground yer battery LAST.......Dell
 

[dlplost]

ran my 12v 1950 8n for several years with just a cheap motorcycle battery...
 

[Danny in CO]

Ed,

It's hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks like your alternator pully is not aligned with the crank and water pump pullies. If not, you may need to offset the brackets to get them to align.

Danny
 

[ED-IL]

I will check again to make sure
 

[ED-IL]

now that you mention it, my little sears riding mower battery never had a problem jump starting it
 

[ED-IL]

as always, good advice - thanks dell
 

[NOXJohn]

Your 12 volt conversion should be negative ground. That being the case you want to hook the positive cable up to the battery first. If you hook the negative up first you can create a substantial arc if your wrench hits anything grounded while hooking up the positive cable. I have seen some bad accidents when that happens and the wrench holder jumps out of his shorts.
 

[Charles Krammin]

Interesting article in N-News. Don't change postive ground 9n and 2n to negative grd. as you can't change coil wire in to distributor (like 8N), therby causing spark to jump from block side to centr of plug. It runs better the other way (spark from cter of plug to ground. Watch the spark from plug wire at itdle and you will see. Other problem with your installation. Too high of a mount and fanbelt hits distributor. Too low and then tierod hits alternator as front axle rocks. Can solve this problem by welding spacer under otherside between stop and axle.
A better solution is a 12 volt generator and voltage regulaor that can be "Flashed' for postive ground. I also opeted for a 12v to 6v resistor plus ford original 6V resisyor and old 6 volt coil.
 

[JMOR]

[Charles Krammin]

It runs better by starting better- hotter spark at plugs as there is less resistance thru plug wires than thru cast iron block. Only experience in actual use was more horsepower plowing garden with dearborn 2-14 plow in heavy clay. Tires were spinning in 2nd gear- low range sherman- step down. The addition thing of of using a 62 Amp Delco-Remy alternator is you better fuse it to wire size from alternator before you "fry"(Experience taught me in complete rewire job) all your other wires. In-line 30 Amp for 10 Ga, 20 Amp for 12Ga. Also to align belt the alternator mount on governor casting needs 2 1 1/2 long pieces of steel and 2 hole drilled at 1" to raise the alternator above the governor mount and then use washers as spacers front to back.
Haven't had to much running with 12 volt generator ( came off JD 45 self popelled F-145 power unit) as I am now making mounts for my "Dearborn Model 19-1 Bulldozer" before snow flies in MI.