Valve Spring Compressor

[govols66]

Can anyone recommend a good valve spring compressor for the 8N? Want a decent mix of inexpensive and easy to use. Thanks.
 

[wwildhorse2k]

If you have the new valves Sears has a good inexpensive one that Ive bought and used-- works good. Or you might check with your local auto parts store -- they might rent or loan it


-- Mark
Valve spring compressor

 

[Hobo,NC]

take yer pick



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[Dunk]

I have one that is different than any of Hobo's, and one that I modified.

Yeah, I know I need pics.
 

[ZANE]

VALVES REMOVE FROM THE N ENGINE

First remove the manifold and the tappet covers.

Fabricate a tool from a big heavy common screwdriver that can be inserted into the valve ports and used to push the valve guides down enough to remove the horseshoe retainers that hold the valve guides at the bottom of the valve guide just above the spring.

When the retainer is removed then it is possible to drive the whole valve assembly out the top of the engine up through the valve port .

The spring keepers can then be removed and the valve assembly disassembled.

Seals are only used on the intake valve guide and they will be the ones that are the hardest to remove from the block because of the old seal being like hardened glue on the outside of the old intake valve guide. Only use guide seals on the intake when reinstalling the valve assemblies.

Name: ZANE
E-Mail: wzsherman@aol.com
Subject: Re: Removing valves from engine
Body of Message:
The best way I have found to get the valve assemblies out of the block is to use a big flat/spade screwdriver that has been ground down about 1/8 inch or so just up from the tip end about a 1/4" inch or so and long enough space ground down to let the cut out come out past the side of the block.
Place the screwdriver/prybar into the valve port on top of the valve guide close to the valve stem and pull up on the screwdriver/prybar to push the guide down enough to pull out the horse shoe keeper.
Next take that same screwdriver and place the tip end on the spring close to the end of the valve guide and smack it a few good ones with a hammer to drive the guide/valve assembly out the top.
Once it is out the top you can depress the spring and take the keepers off to dis assemble the units. Don't loose the little cup thingies that are on the bottom of the exhaust valves if it has rotating exhaust valves in it.
Only the intake valve guide should have seals installed on them when you go back up. None on the exhaust valve guides.
Acording to Zane
Added on Date: 06:24:39 06/07/06
 

[Greg 2N (TX)]

I like this spring compressor.
The finger end is adjustable for different widths to grab under the spring retainer.
The rod is adjustable up/down for different jaw opening sizes up on the deck side of the block.

Forgive my going between the spring, I usually go under the spring retainer when removing the keepers. But by later going between the spring it allows you to also remove the spring retainer to give more room for the spring to expand and not be so tight when removing the guide retainer.

The other pics show getting the stubborn intake valve guide out by first tapping down about a 1/4 inch with a deep socket just smaller than the overall diameter of the guide to remove the keeper.
After removing the valve with a small needle nose nose plier, I also show inserting a nut between the spring with a large screwdriver and then running a long bolt with a socket resting on the valve seat. This allows me to screw out the whole stubborn assembly with ease. Just need to have the bolt thread stick out about 1/2 inch below the bottom of the valve guide to grab with the nut. I just use a small screwdiver to walk it up to the bottom of the bolt and start turning from the top. Let the nut thread on up til it snug and then the guide will start going up. My bolt had about 1-1/2 inches of thread. Grease the bolt threads like a puller.

The last pic just shows my cam being removed and sitting half way out on the journals. Notice the large socket leaning against the crank counterweight for loosening the cam gear bolts. Before removing the cam I loosened the gear bolts and held the gear from coming out at me by placing a very long "Bessey" clamp against the rear bell housing and the cam gear very loosely.

Greg