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Sickle Bar Pitman Stick

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Smith1000
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 6:58 pm    Post subject: Sickle Bar Pitman Stick Reply to specific post Reply with quote

When setting the length of the pitman with the blades fully extended to the maximum reach, are the blades centered in between the guards, or centered on the guards (guard in middle of blade point)? I am asking because I am centering on the guards, but the stick keeps breaking. It acts like it is struggling and then breaks. I am wondering if I should set it so that the blades are in between the guards.
 
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fixerupper
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Sickle Bar Pitman Stick Reply to specific post Reply with quote

The blade should be centered in the middle of the guard itself at the end of full extension and full retraction. Hope this helps. Jim
 
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David from Kansas
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:13 pm    Post subject: Re: Sickle Bar Pitman Stick Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Here is a direct quote from the JD #5 Operator's Manual, "the knife sections must center in the guards at the extreme inner and outer ends of the pitman stroke". This if for a JD mower. Don't think other brands would be any different.
 
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mnoliverguy
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Sickle Bar Pitman Stick Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Are you buying or making your own bars?
 
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old
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 8:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Sickle Bar Pitman Stick Reply to specific post Reply with quote

In and all the way out they need to be centered in the guard. If not in both places your stick is not correct and you need to find out which way is either not short or long as it should be
 
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Bob
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Sickle Bar Pitman Stick Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Actually, in most cases, the "throw" of the crank is a little bit more that the center-to-center distance between the tips of the guards so the knife sections will pass the "points" of the guards at BOTH ends of knife travel. If the pitman stick is set up correctly the knife tips will pass the guard points by the same distance at both ends of the knife stroke.

Of course, lifting or lowering the inner end of the cuttterbar changes the geometry a bit and a knife that is EXACTLY "in register" when lying flat on the ground will be "off" a bit when raised or cutting a low area so the bar is riding lower than normal.
 
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paul
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 10:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Sickle Bar Pitman Stick Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Gotta be centered on both the long & short throw. It won't cut if you try to set it up with the sections in between the guards!

Do you have some rivots or bolts hitting the clamps on the sickle? Can you move the sickle freely by hand so it doesn't bind?

Did you hit something - fencepost, tree - with the end of the sickle running and bend it?

are you ciutting real fine grass & driving too fast, so it just overwhelms it?

--->Paul
 
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Smith1000
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 1:40 am    Post subject: Re: Sickle Bar Pitman Stick Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I am making my own sticks. It is a Case No. 10 mower, which takes a 41 inch stick. Can"t seem to locate any sticks this long. I cut several sticks out of an old oak fence board 2 years ago. The first 2 sticks lasted a long time. Recently, since I started on the back portion of the field, the sticks are breaking quickly. I have centered point-to-point at the furthest reach. I did buy a wheel barrow handle and cut a stick out of it. This broke just as quickly. I have been cutting in 2nd with a Super M, which is fairly slow. The knives are really moving.

I have a different mower behind a Super C as a backup and it will cut well. It is belt driven-no stick. I believe that the guards may be the problem as the knives are in good shape and lay flat on the bar. I can move the knives by hand when the stick is broken, once the remaining grass is cleaned out of it. Typically, there is some grass wedged in the guards when the stick breaks and it seems to "chatter" a bit before the stick breaks-although, it will break spontaneously. The guards have never been changed out on the old mower. I am thinking this might be a major part of the reason why it seems to struggle a bit when cutting. Also, the grass is getting somewhat tougher, but the other mower seems to drop it down fine.
 
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Smith1000
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 1:45 am    Post subject: Re: Sickle Bar Pitman Stick Reply to specific post Reply with quote

The blades seem to move freely-by hand. The field is flat and clean and I have not hit any posts, or debris. The spring clamp that attaches the arm to the blades did come off--lost the spring. I ran a bolt through the clamp to hold it on to the socket. This seems to hold fine and there is clearance for the bolt.
 
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Smith1000
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 1:48 am    Post subject: Re: Sickle Bar Pitman Stick Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I may set it this way and see how it does. I have been centering blades in the middle of the guard tips, but could set it so that the knife tips are slightly past the guards. It is a Case No. 10 mower.
 
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Leroy
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 3:50 am    Post subject: Re: Sickle Bar Pitman Stick Reply to specific post Reply with quote

The JD NO. 8, No. 9, & No. 11 and possibly the newer models like the 37 have a 3 1/2" stroke on the knife but these are all that I have heard of with that. All the others that I know of have a standard 3" stroke but measure the wheel to see if it has a exactly 1 1/2" offset to the center of where the pitman fastens to and the exact center of the shaft. That will tell you if the blades need to be centered in the guards both ways or if just past center both ways. I don't understand people breaking pitmans all the time. In over 50 years and running a couple hundred + acres a year we never broke a pitman stick, the clamps yes but never the stick.
 
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Phil Tibbetts
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 3:43 pm    Post subject: Re: Sickle Bar Pitman Stick Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I had a case # 10 mower years ago and it cut fine but I had trouble keeping the pitman rod on the ball of the knife head so I finally gave up on it and bought a MF 41 pitmanless. This is the best mower I have ever used, quiet and practically no maintainence other than keeping it greased. I believe the pitman rod wood was about 41 inches long and I made a couple up out of ash. Never had any trouble with them breaking unless I did something stupid.
 
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TomH in PA
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 4:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Sickle Bar Pitman Stick Reply to specific post Reply with quote

The mower doesn't have a slip clutch? It seems like something else in the drive train should give before the stick.
 
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Smith1000
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 6:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Sickle Bar Pitman Stick Reply to specific post Reply with quote

There"s no slip clutch on it. I believe it must be the guards (partially). They appear to be the original guards. Also, the sticks I have been cutting are fairly brittle. I"ll work on it over the weekend. I have been using the back up mower which is a MF no. 30. It is pitmanless and is working very well at the moment. Had to put a new belt on it recently. Thanks to everyone for all of the help.
 
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Scott 730
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 6:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Sickle Bar Pitman Stick Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Smith1000 wrote:
(quoted from post at 04:40:38 08/03/10) I am making my own sticks. It is a Case No. 10 mower, which takes a 41 inch stick. Can"t seem to locate any sticks this long. .


I replied to your other post last week and told you to look at www.balsters.net. They have the pitman you need. They list it as 41 1/2". Your homemade one is probably 1/2" too short.
 
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