o/t how do you put black stove pipe together

[wsmm]

Looking at getting some black pipe for a barrel stove for my pole barn. What"s the secret for getting it to go together. It"s in a flat piece, that needs to be formed into a cylinder and I haven"t been able to figure out the trick to put the seam together.

Thanks
Bill
 

[bo]

If it's like duct pipe...you sorta cave it in a bit and stick one part of the flange in and it just snaps together....you have to get a fair amount of angle on the inserted piece.
 

[thurlow]

It's been a while, but IIRC, you've got to bend it past round......to a somewhat 'heart' shape, with the seam at the 'inside' point of the heart.
 

[Mt.Man]

If you will bend the two long sides together you should be able to see how they hook together. They will interlock. I had a barrel stove in my garage and loved it until the insurance company made me take it out or lose my insurance with them.
 

[MarkB_MI]

I just finished messing around with stove pipe. Aggravating stuff. If it doesn't want to lock, you may need to pry up one of the edges so it can catch the other side.
 

[PJH]

Bill, after you get it snapped into a cylinder like the other posters say - when you put the joints together, the female end goes up so any juice will stay on the inside of the pipe and not run out the joints on the floor.

Paul
 

[BANDITFARMER]

I would like to give you some advice about that stove pipe. It is cheep stuff and will rust out fast then it gets heated up and hot. I have switched over to a 6 inch tube from an unloading auger, Its a lot heaver and is made from better steel and is a whole lot cheeper to buy. Cost me $3 a foot for used 6 inch tube from a guy that sells new augers and repairs them too. Just my two cents. Bandit
 

[wgtm]

You get what you pay for. Quit buying junk and buy some quality pipe.
 

[Bob]

Leather gloves are a BIG help!
 

[60 acre hillside]

Bo is exactly right plus after one is started to go together you slap each side with your hands and it ges together. if it takes long you are doing it wrong. be careul because you can cut your hands. Larger pipe is easier and thinner pipe is easier. hardest I ever did was 24 ga 6" pipe. Did an apprenticeship in a sheetmetal shop. Never got my card
 

[old]

I gave up on that cheap last you a year if your lucky pipe and switch to 6 inch well casing and have never looked back. My stove has had the same pipe on it now for over 15 years and it is still holding up real well. I did get lucky when I got that pipe and got it for scrap price in 3 foot piece from a place I worked at
 

[Heyseed]

Thurlo is right, overbend it and it will snap together. I have used 24 gauge for years and check and clean it twice a season, looking for rust or weakness. Still very solid.
 

[DiyDave]

I agree on what others have said, I put 1/4" sidewall 6" steel pipe to run chimney over to wall, through floor, and from there, I use the heavy variety of the black stove pipe, when I can get it. 2 things that help: You need to compress the pipe, from a round cross section, almost to a heart like cross section, with the v of the heart, at the seam. Take the pipe, put it between your legs, while kneeling, and put your thumbs next to each side of the seam, near the center of the pipe section. Press with your thumbs, straight down, when you get it just right, it clicks right in. 30 inch sections are easier to work with than the 60's. The second thing that helps is to get one of cheap sheet metal crimping pliers, and recrimp any tight male pipe ends, makes the assembly easier. I also put 3 sheet metal screws into each joint, near the stove, where most expansion takes place.
 

[rustyfarmall]

[GeneMO]

I put of about 25' of used grain leg at my shop in 1977. It's still there.

Although I used the kinda pipe you are talking about in my hunting cabin as sort of "temporary"

That was in 1996 and I had to replace it last month.

Gene