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9n ford tractor timing


 
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Barry Boggs
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 7:04 am    Post subject: 9n ford tractor timing Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I have a 9n that I just can't seem to get timed.
I made the mistake of taking the dist out and turning it with first marking it.
My question is a short one: If the dist. is 180 deg. out, will it start. Runs like hell and back fires but moving the dist. does no good plus to keep it running it has to be choked.

Barry
 
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JMOR
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 7:13 am    Post subject: Re: 9n ford tractor timing Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Barry Boggs wrote:
(quoted from post at 11:04:00 06/17/11) I have a 9n that I just can't seem to get timed.
I made the mistake of taking the dist out and turning it with first marking it.
My question is a short one: If the dist. is 180 deg. out, will it start. Runs like hell and back fires but moving the dist. does no good plus to keep it running it has to be choked.

Barry
I can't see what you have there, but a stock 9N distributor can't be moved (two bolts in round holes) & almost-never can be installed 180 out, as the drive is an off-set slot/tang. I would suggest verifying the wire/firing order.


By the way, the actual timing adjuster has such limited range (+/- 12 crank degrees) that you likely can't get it to set far enough "off" to keep it from running reasonably well.
 
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ZANE
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 7:34 am    Post subject: Re: 9n ford tractor timing Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Are you sure you have a front mounted distributor that would be on a 9N??

Might be that someone has put an 8N engine in the tractor with the side mounted distributor. It can be installed wrong easily. Not so the front distributor. It is keyed to prevent that. If you bolt it down 180% out of time it will break the distributor and it won't run period. Good or bad!

Zane
 
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Barry Boggs
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 7:50 am    Post subject: Re: 9n ford tractor timing Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Maybe I worded it wrong but it is a front mounted distributor.
The part that I'm referring to is kept in place with a wire ring. it's inside the part that is bolted down.

Barry
 
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old
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 7:53 am    Post subject: Re: 9n ford tractor timing Reply to specific post Reply with quote

If it is a 9N it should have a front mount distributor and it only goes back in one way unless you force it to go in and then most of the time you brake things. So now is it a front mount or do you maybe have an 8N instead of a 9N and have the side mount distributor?? If front mount timing is not likely to be the problem but point gap maybe. So are your points set at 0.015 which is correct for the front mounts and if side mount the gap is 0.025 for the points. You could also have a couple plug wires on wrong and that would cause that problem
 
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JMOR
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 7:57 am    Post subject: Re: 9n ford tractor timing Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Barry Boggs wrote:
(quoted from post at 11:50:39 06/17/11) Maybe I worded it wrong but it is a front mounted distributor.
The part that I'm referring to is kept in place with a wire ring. it's inside the part that is bolted down.

Barry
That is the points/breaker plate & has a tab where a screw goes thru the side of housing ....this is where timing is set.

http://www.tntwebdevelopment.com/tff/timing.htm
 
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Barry Boggs
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 8:22 am    Post subject: Re: 9n ford tractor timing Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thank you, I have to wait until tomorrow when I have help taking the cover off to see if it works or that I have more problems.
again thank you

Barry
 
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Bruce (VA)
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 9:27 am    Post subject: Re: 9n ford tractor timing Reply to specific post Reply with quote

" when I have help taking the cover off"

You aren't referring to the hood are you? The front distributor was designed to come off of the tractor to replace/adjust the points. Remove the wire on the coil, remove the coil bail, remove the distributor cap & take the two bolts off. The base of the distributor has an offset tang & can only go back one way unless you really force it on, as others have said.

Chances are you just have it mis-wired. Firing order is 1-2-4-3, CCW.

Did you remove the timing screw & the clip holding the plate in the distributor base? If so, it could be out of time. Post back for info on how to set the timing.


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Barry Boggs
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 7:43 am    Post subject: Re: 9n ford tractor timing Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I now have the distr. out and was going to set the timing per ford tractor timing instructions but in order to get things lined up as instructed the timing screw needs to move just a little more but it runs out of room to move.
What can I do to correct this problem?

Barry
PS I hope someone works on Sat.
 
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Bruce (VA)
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 1:13 pm    Post subject: Re: 9n ford tractor timing Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Get a meter or test light, a 21/64” drill bit & a metal straight edge. Put the distributor face down w/ the condenser on the left & the timing plate lock screw on the bottom. Look at the end of the shaft: it has a narrow side & a wide side. Make sure you can tell the difference. Now, place the drill bit in the bottom mounting hole. (this will be your reference point for measuring) . Next, place a straight edge on the wide side of the tang on shaft as shown in fig. FO83 in the I&T FO4 manual. Rotate the shaft CCW (as viewed from rotor side OR CW as viewed from back/tang side) until the straight edge is ¼" beyond the outside edge of the drill bit you stuck in the distributor mounting hole. At this distance, the distributor points should start to open. (get your meter/light out now & check) If not, loosen the timing plate lock screw and turn to advance or retard the timing. (move the plate down to advance timing, up to retard) Remember, each one of those little hash marks represents about 4* of timing. Keep adjusting until you get the proper ¼" setting. (if the plate won’t move, you might need to remove the big C clip to loosen it a bit) As you’re adjusting, eliminate backlash by turning the shaft backwards (CW as viewed from the front) and bring the shaft forwards (CCW as viewed from the front) to measure your setting. This ¼" setting will get you static timing at top dead center.

After you set the points & timing, do a continuity check before you put the distributor back on the tractor. Before you start, make sure your meter/light works (don't ask....)

With the distributor still off the tractor, follow these steps:

1. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other on both sides of the open points. On the side closest to the cam, you should have continuity. Not on the other side! If you do, you will also have continuity everywhere because the points are grounded.

2. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity! Now, rotate the tang on the distributor....as the points open & close, you have continuity (closed) and lose it when they open.

3. Put the coil on the distributor, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other on the cam side of the open points. You should have continuity!

4. Coil on, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity!

At this point, I just put the distributor, coil & cap all back on the tractor as a unit. The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil mis-aligned trying to put it back together one piece at a time & the result is something gets broken or you get a ‘no spark’ problem.

It's possible to put it back on wrong & break it. Look at the slot on the end of the cam shaft. What ever angle it happens to be, turn the distributor tang to match it. Make sure you can tell the wide side from the narrow side on both the cam & distributor! (close counts) Then place the distributor on the front of the engine, gently push it in place & slowly turn the distributor body until you feel the tang slip into the slot. Rotate the distributor body until the bolt holes line up. Then, hand tighten the two bolts until the distributor body is flush w/ the timing gear cover.

Post back w/ results & any other questions.



* NAPA part numbers:

· Points: FD-6769X

· Condenser: FD-71

· Rotor: FD-104

· Cap: FD-126

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Barry Boggs
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 5:01 am    Post subject: Re: 9n ford tractor timing Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Bruce, in your instructions the problem is that when rotating the shaft CCW (as viewed from rotor side or CW as viewed from back/tang side) until the straight edge is 1/4" beyond the outside edge of the drill bit you stuck in the distributor mounting hole. I can only get as close as 3/8" from the drill bit.
Do I need a new distributor??
Barry
 
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Barry Boggs
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 10:43 am    Post subject: Re: 9n ford tractor timing Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Just because I put Bruce on the email doesn't mean anyone can't tell me what I need to do.

Please tell me what I need to do.

Barry
 
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JMOR
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 10:53 am    Post subject: Re: 9n ford tractor timing Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Barry Boggs wrote:
(quoted from post at 14:43:01 06/21/11) Just because I put Bruce on the email doesn't mean anyone can't tell me what I need to do.

Please tell me what I need to do.

Barry
Barry, while we all like a perfect world, if I were you, I wouldn't worry about it. The difference in 1/4 vs 3/8 is about 2 distributor or 4 crankshaft degrees and you will probably not be able to detect a performance/running difference. Minor variation in point gap, bushing wear, and whether you are eyeballing opening or using a continuity test method will all influence that dimension. Typically, just 0.001 inch error in point gap setting will result in a little over one degree of advance error.

In your very first post, you asked if 180 out install would make engine run really bad.........I contend that it would not run at all.
 
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