O/T 2 questions on 2 Cycle Engines

[wsmm]

1st deals with ignition. System consists of points, condenser and coil. New points and condenser and they tested out okay. I"m thinking I have a bad coil as I have no spark. On a digital meter the primary side of the coil reads under 3 ohms, secondary was in the 2 to 3k range if I remember correctly. On an analog meter it almost reads a dead short, 0 ohms. Any other way to test a coil before I spend $30.00 on a new one?

2nd question. What is the difference between common 2 cycle oil and 2 cycle outboard motor oil? Can one be used in place of the other in all instances, or are there some restraints or recommendations.

Thanks,
Bill
 

[MtMan]

I believe i'm telling you right. With an OHM meter go to the ground lead wire of the coil[the one with the metal tab]/ and the other wire to the wire that goes to the points. You should have 0 OHM's. Now from the ground wire to the wire that goes to the sparkplug and you should read almost 5 , not much less. Good luck
 

[ShadetreeRet]

I couldn't find my small engine manual and I can't remember the procedure for testing a coil. (At my age I'm beginning to develop that dreaded CRS syndrome. (You know, Can't Remember S##t.)
However, in the matter of lubrication, most air cooled two cycle engines require a different oil than outboards because outboards are basically water cooled and do not run as hot. With my weedeater, chain saw and any other two cycle engines that I may have, I either run the manufacturer's oil or a good brand name two cycle oil. Many specify on the container whether it is for straight air cooled or outboard use. Hope this helps a little. Lowell