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O/T 2 questions on 2 Cycle Engines

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Joined: 19 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 6:04 pm    Post subject: O/T 2 questions on 2 Cycle Engines Reply to specific post Reply with quote

1st deals with ignition. System consists of points, condenser and coil. New points and condenser and they tested out okay. I"m thinking I have a bad coil as I have no spark. On a digital meter the primary side of the coil reads under 3 ohms, secondary was in the 2 to 3k range if I remember correctly. On an analog meter it almost reads a dead short, 0 ohms. Any other way to test a coil before I spend $30.00 on a new one?

2nd question. What is the difference between common 2 cycle oil and 2 cycle outboard motor oil? Can one be used in place of the other in all instances, or are there some restraints or recommendations.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 2:33 pm    Post subject: Re: O/T 2 questions on 2 Cycle Engines Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I believe i'm telling you right. With an OHM meter go to the ground lead wire of the coil[the one with the metal tab]/ and the other wire to the wire that goes to the points. You should have 0 OHM's. Now from the ground wire to the wire that goes to the sparkplug and you should read almost 5 , not much less. Good luck
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 5:50 pm    Post subject: Re: O/T 2 questions on 2 Cycle Engines Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I couldn't find my small engine manual and I can't remember the procedure for testing a coil. (At my age I'm beginning to develop that dreaded CRS syndrome. (You know, Can't Remember S##t.)
However, in the matter of lubrication, most air cooled two cycle engines require a different oil than outboards because outboards are basically water cooled and do not run as hot. With my weedeater, chain saw and any other two cycle engines that I may have, I either run the manufacturer's oil or a good brand name two cycle oil. Many specify on the container whether it is for straight air cooled or outboard use. Hope this helps a little. Lowell
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