Removing Wisconsin flywheel

[JOB]

Does anyone on here have any luck removing a flywheel by the book with the babbitt hammer? I removed one yesterday off an old VE4. I put my butt against the flywheel shroud, held a bar of round stock against the end of crankshaft, Took a 10 pound short handled hammer, and with a pendulum swing struck the round stock. Took three light blows to encourage the flywheel to come off.

I placed a flywheel from a VH4 on the crankshaft, it looks like it will work. Will it?
 

[greygoat]

Part numbers, from Master Parts book, are the
same!
 

[Duner Wi]

From the Archives.

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=station&th=13375

I know the ring gear will inter change .
 

[JOB]

Thanks greygoat, I was thinking and hoping they would interchange with no problems. The VE4 I am going to put an electric start on it, I am tired of the crank.

I have another question if you are up to it. I have no compression on #1 cylinder. Had weak compression on #2-3-4. Put oil down all cylinders and let sit. Have good compression on #2-3-4 and still none on #1. Right now I have penetrating oil in #1 soaking. Have you ever encountered anything like this? Do you have any thoughts or ideas? Don't really want to pull the rod and piston out.

What method do you use to remove flywheels?
 

[JOB]

Thanks Duner, I asked greygoat a couple of questions would you be willing to put your thoughts into this.
 

[Duner Wi]

For the cylinder with no compression take the valve inspection cover off and see if you don't have a valve stuck open.
Flywheels have a bunch of parts #s. No starter. Starter with generator, starter with 10 amp alt.
Starter with 30 amp alt. Closest # I see is N101 for VE VF 4 with 30 amp alt.
VH4 shows #101A. Is the A important ? I don't know. If greygoat says it will work I would trust that.
 

[JOB]

On the flywheel fitting, I was just concerned if it would fit the taper properly. The old VE did not have an generating system in the flywheel, I would bet all they had was an external generator with a distributor on the end of it.

I trusted greygoat on it fitting what I was wondering was how you folks remove a flywheel. I kind of explained how I did it. It was not the recommended method. Was wondering if the recommended method works for you guys.

As for the #1 cylinder that has no compression I looked down the spark plug hole and can see both valves going up and down. I feel there is some stuck rings on the piston I have the engine tilted now with the top of the piston being level with a fair amount of penetrating oil in the cylinder.
 

[Duner Wi]

I tension the flywheel in the direction it comes off. After that it was pretty much the same way you did it.
Put piston at TDC fire stroke and put compressed air to spark plug hole and see where air escapes.
 

[JOB]

I will let the penetrating oil soak a little more, if nothing happens I will try the compressed air. Not sure how I will plumb it into the spark hole. Could just stuff rags around the hole. Thanks
 

[Duner Wi]

Auto parts store should have an adapter.
Rags might work too being you have zero compression. I have made an adapter out of old spark plug.
 

[JOB]

After you said auto parts store I remembered I have a screw in compression tester. The fittings on that should do the job. I still have it soaking in penetrating oil, poured in about a half of a small container. Was going to give it a couple of days. The first soaking of a little penetrating oil for one day did not work.
Thanks
 

[greygoat]

Per the lack of compression issue: without a
teardown: my feelings would be valve sticking,
or burned valve.
 

[greygoat]

My method of removing flywheels, is per the
Wisconsin parts and service book, which is
virtually the same for all models: Hold the flywheel in one hand..Hit the crank end with a
soft hammer,(copper or lead?, I use a Snap-On
plastic hammer with a pound of lead shot inside)
Anyway...protect the threads on the crankshaft end. I screw the crank nut back on halfway!
When I put the flywheel back on, I always swab
some Anti-sieze on the flywheel and crank taper.
 

[JOB]

I never have had any luck with the book method, but sounds like you have. That anti-sieze on the taper sounds like a real good idea. I put some on a tie rod taper, loosened the tie rod a year or so later and the tie rod just dropped out.
 

[JOB]

That engine ran real good when I stopped using it 3 years ago. I would rule out burned valve, sticking valve possibly, but they appear to be going all the way up and down looking through the spark hole. I will take dunner's suggestion and try the compressed air. Might just be a valve not going down all the way.

I don't really want to pull the head for fear of twisting off a head bolt. Those three in the center are impossible to put a little heat on.

Thanks for your time and suggestions I am going to fool with it some more.