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For CNKS: Picklex 20 coverage


 
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Billy C.
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Joined: 25 Apr 2005
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 5:46 am    Post subject: For CNKS: Picklex 20 coverage Reply to specific post Reply with quote

How much surface area will a pint of Picklex 20 cover? I'm doing a JD M and it is pretty rusty. Will have all sheet metal to do--hood, grill fenders, etc. At $42.00 per pint that can get pretty expensive. Thanks, Billy
 
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Rod (NH)
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Location: SE New Hampshire

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 9:55 am    Post subject: Re: For CNKS: Picklex 20 coverage Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I'm not CNKS but I'm a very satisfied Picklex 20 user. Coverage is 200 SF per pint. It's great stuff. Well worth the price. If you're going to use a phosphoric acid product, this is the one to get. However, I suggest you remove the vast majority of rust by other means. Don't rely on Picklex 20 to do everything. When it comes to rust, there is no "quick fix" miracle product.
 
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CNKS
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 1:30 pm    Post subject: Re: For CNKS: Picklex 20 coverage Reply to specific post Reply with quote

JD M is small, you should have a lot left over. Spray a little on and spread it with a brush. I agree with Rod, do not use it as a rust converter, remove all the rust you can, and use it as a protectant, it will convert small amounts of rust. It is the best product you can buy used in that manner. Don't expect good results if your parts are covered in rust.
 
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CNKS
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 4:10 pm    Post subject: Re: For CNKS: Picklex 20 coverage Reply to specific post Reply with quote

In addition, I notice that the instructions have changed. When I have used it, I squirted it on and spread it with a brush, then let it dry. The "new" instructions say to apply, brush it to spread it out, wait 1 minute and wipe it off with paper towels. It says if it dries on the surface, it will reduce bonding - don't know if that means the Picklex or the paint - and it will be hard to remove the residue. It used to say paint over the residue, which I never do. Also I have always been able to get most of the residue off by scuffing. Probably best if the instructions are followed. Wax and grease remover are not mentioned, if I remember right. To me that is mandatory, in addition to the instructions. Use epoxy over it, not etch primer as etch may add too much acid.
 
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Billy C.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 4:14 pm    Post subject: Re: For CNKS: Picklex 20 coverage Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thanks to both of you. I had planned on getting the rust off except in the pits. Would like to sandblast, but I know from experience it will warp hood. I did buy a wheel for my drill this afternoon and will try that. I also have air sander, but it is slow because I have a small compressor.
 
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GordoSD
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 10:03 am    Post subject: Sandblasting Reply to specific post Reply with quote

The blaster I use has done hundreds of items for me and has never warped a thing. Did a big flat 57 chev hood and no warping. And that is not as thick as your sheet metal.
And only a tiny speck ot two of ruast on a few items. That I treated with DuPont "Metal Prep". Been using that same product since 1954. Dilute with water, rub on with sponge or lintless rag, wait a few minutes, flush with water. Dry in bright sunlight.
 
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JRSutton
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 2:09 pm    Post subject: Re: For CNKS: Picklex 20 coverage Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I'd agree - I think if you have heavier rust, it has to stay "wet" for at least 15 minutes for a phosphoric acid to make any difference.

So if you've got a lot of heavy rust, you'll be in the poor house in no time using picklex.

Not the right product for the job.

Sandblasting/wire brushing is the right product for that job.

Minor rust - be sure to let it stay wet for longer than you would clean metal.

On clean metal, just spray it on - wipe it thin with a cloth or brush and let it dry.
 
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