Brake reline question

[JFoshee]

I am thinking of trying to reline the brakes on a Komatsu D31-18. It has wet type brakes. Has anyone tried to reline wet type brakes before? Any issues? Also, McMaster Carr sells reline material. It comes in different types of friction materials. Low, medium, and high friction then a metal free and high strength type of material. Which would be best for this application? The McMaster Carr website gives a good description of each material.
McMaster Carr brake material

 

[NCWayne]

I've relined alot of brake bands for cranes over the years but never anything for a steering clutch, especially a wet type. Based on what I've always heard there is a difference between friction material designed for wet use vs material for dry use. If nothing else the difference in the coefficient of friction between a wet clutch and a dry clutch would be different so where you'd need one type to work dry, it would be something totally different wet. Beyond that, what the actual difference between the material types is, I don't know, but I would imagine everything McMaster has is designed for dry use.

Before I'd do anything I'd give the guys at CECO Friction a call and get their opinions on what you'll need. I've been doing business, off and on, with them for nearly 12 years and they have always been very knowledgable and helpful when I ran into needin something odd of different.

Hope this helps, and good luck.
CECO Friction Products

 

[Brake reline]

Are you sure the brake bands are the problem and not the steering clutches? I put relined brake bands in JD 355D with wet brakes. The brake material wasn't that thick but had grooves in it. I think the grooves were for the oil to flow through.
 

[JFoshee]

Thanks I will give them a call. I have not disassembled it yet, but there is no adjustment left in the brake adjuster. It is screwed all the way in. Also, the steering clutches work when pushing. As long as the tracks are spinning while pushing the steering clutches are ok. When you turn, you disengage (or declutch) the steering clutches and tighten the band around the brake drum to stop the track and turn the machine. At least this is how I understand it to work. Someone correct me if I am wrong. I may be looking for the wrong parts.
 

[dpendzic]

Are you sure the steering clutches are releasing? If when both clutches are released at the same time the machine should come to a stop.
 

[JFoshee]

I am not positive. I will check it out. Thanks.
 

[NCWayne]

Your correct on the way a crawler typically steers. That said, like another post stated, if the machine will push and spoin the tracks, and come to a complete stop when the clutches are released, then the chancees of the problem being in the clutch is next to nothing. If your problem is with the machine turning, and the brakes are tightened as tight as they will go and still don't hold the track for you to make a turn then the brake is the problem.

That said, I've never seen a steering clutch setup that didn't have to come out in order to remove the brake band. If the clutches on your machine are hydraulicly released then you'll be money ahead to replace the seals in the release pistons while you have the bands out. Good luck and keep us updated on your progress.
 

[AJ.]

Its been a while since I had any of those small dozers in but I seem to remember that the ones with wet brakes had a one piece brake band,the clutch had to be removed to service the band, Komatsu do a service kit for the brakes,the friction lining is bronze/copper mixture exactly what I don't know but it has to be of the type that won't damage the drum,a set of exchange bands would be the best way to go,if yours are so badly worn you should have spotted the ground up material in the oil strainer and filter when you service it,when you are in there you need to give the housing a good wash out and replace any filters there is.
Good luck
AJ
 

[JFoshee]

The brakes were worn out. I replaced the entire assembly instead of relining the ones I had. I still have a noise in the transmission/bevel gear area. It is worse in reverse. Also have a noise when I declutch right track. I don"t think the problems are related. I felt of the final drive input bearings and bevel gear bearings when I had the steering clutches out. They did not feel like they had any slack, but could not see them to check for pitting.
 

[AJ.]

Pity that after all the work you have done,did you check the bevel gear to pinion backlash,did the ware pattern look OK on both,usually a bad whine in reverse is caused by the backlash been either too tight or too loose,do you know the history of the tractor,sometimes the bevel gear gets changed without the pinion and as they are matched sets no adjustment will rid it of the whine if the gears are not meshing right,the steering clutch issue sounds like the friction material is worn off some of the discs and they are sticking to the driving ones and not letting go till the clutch is fully disengaged,then you can hear them grouch and let go abruptly,hope you can sort it without having to tear it apart again.
Good luck
AJ