Roosa Master question

[steve n carol]

On my CASE 450 Crawler.
Pump Model #DB843AJ2837

I have been collecting information on this pump, (from this board) for a few years now. today in getting ready to pull the pump to rebuild it, I noticed that... while I had to break out the glass check ball, (to get the machine back to its bed, a year ago), I never noticed any of the material, described as "mouse turds", inside either the side cover (2 screws) or the top cover/reservoir, (3 screws).

I am not 100% with how this pump works, I do believe that w/o the glass ball, internal pump pressures continue uncontrolled, (?). so I will replace the check valve w/the glass ball, for sure.

when the machine stalled out, I found blockage above the glass ball, dirt, packing material etc., and it kept accumulating. 3 or 4 times I cleaned this material out, until I knocked the ball out, to get the tractor back to the shed.

Q). are there other reasons why I would have to knock this glass check
ball out, that would not warrant rebuilding this pump?
'If it isn't broke, i don't want to fix it'....
thanks in advance...snc
 

[george md]

Steve,

Any thing in the ball check has to come
from within the pump as there is a very fine
mesh screen in the inlet of the pump. The dirt
you mention should look like coffee grounds and
it is the remains of the governor weight basket
drive. When the drive completely disintegrates
the 2 pieces of the drive will cut off the
rivets and when that happens ,you no longer
have a governor and there is no limit to RPM.

Send me an email with a phone # and I'll get
you thru the project, I do them regularly and
keep most of the parts.

george
 

[gusbratz]

on the left you see an original gov. weight basket. there is supposed to be a flexable ring betweeen the rivets, thats what drives it. it disinigrates and dissapears into your return line. see the traces of brown stuff around the rivet heads. on the right is the new upgraded solid one that won't wear out. this is from my case 530 db pump. if i kept running it like this it would wear the rivet heads off because that is all that was driveing the govenor weights. hope that helps.

 

[steve n carol]

George, thank you for your offer! A few years ago I was on your website, some interesting work that you do on Cast Iron.
Possibly Saturday I'll get up to where this unit is and finish pulling it off. If I get stuck, I can get a hold of you.

gusbrats, thanks for the pics and the link.... to have a great mind like Mr Rossa! not me, but....I am good looking-ha!
I believe it was on one of your other posts that you mentioned when trying to pull of your pump, it was like, 'still connected', 'like with a spring', I believe is the way you described it. Was it just hung up on the umbrella seals?

Thanks guys...sl
 

[LJD]

The glass ball is part of the "housing pressure regulator." It keeps internal housing pressure at around 4 PSI. Running without it lowers the internal pressure to zero which in itself, hurts nothing. Plugging is an indicator of other problems - as you already know.

When the ball is plugged, housing pressure gets so high - it exceeds feed-fuel charge pressure and essentially shuts the pump down.

Probably all you need is $25 in parts to fix back to original, or for an extra $50 - you can eliminate that pellathane/plastic dampener ring.

By the way, that housing regulator valve also serves as an anti-drain back fuel check valve. When removed it can cause some equipment to get air in the fuel after sitting. Mostly a problem with cars and pickup trucks that have fuel tanks mounted far away from the pump and often sitting lower then the pump. Chevy had many cold-start problems in 6.2 and a few 6.5 diesels when that ball-valve leaked or got stuck.
 

[steve n carol]

Thank you LJD.

Probably won't get to it this w/e. temps will be in the 100s again.... Too hot even for snakes and lizards....sl