Draining WD radiator and block...

[Will Herring]

Okay, so there's these two plugs you can open to drain the radiator and the block... Do I turn them clockwise or counterclockwise? I assume "lefty loosey" but don't want to snap one off in error. Any tricks to freeing them up if they happen to be a bit stuck?
 

[S.C.]

They are left hand thread so to open them turn counter-
clockwise. Lefty loosey, righty tighty doesn't apply in this case.
 

[BushogPapa]

Might just as well take the one OUT of the Block, so you can better Flush it out...
Better yet..take the Freeze-Plugs out and really Flush the sediment out..
With them out, you can use a stiff wire to dig the sediment loose...

Ron.
 

[BushogPapa]

Might just as well take the one OUT of the Block, so you can better Flush it out...
Better yet..take the Freeze-Plugs out and really Flush the sediment out..
With them out, you can use a stiff wire to dig the sediment loose...

Ron.
 

[old]

All depends on if they are pipe plug type of radiator type. If a pipe plug they work normal but if you have the radiator type they work back wards. I have seen both types on the tractors. Or you could always remove the whole assembly if the radiator type
 

[Will Herring]

From what I can tell, both of them look like a nipple fitting that you unscrew to let the liquid come out from the inside. Here's a picture:



The radiator one looks fairly similar, except it seems to have a milky white plastic up near the base before where it is threaded into the radiator.

I assume they turn counter-clockwise to open... Provided they give.
 

[old]

Yep outer part goes back wards of the inner part. So right to loosen the drain or left to take the whole thing out of the block. I use ones like that on carbs so as to be an easy drain set up
 

[JMS/.MN]

Lefty loosey....is CCW......Rad and engine block fittings are...turn to the left to drain them. It"s just that the fitting screws IN when you do that!
 

[JMS/.MN]

NO. Turn CCW to open the drain. Base of the fitting is also turn left to remove. See post elow....turn the drain to the left, it opens by screwing INTO the fitting.
 

[JMS/.MN]

I made a HM tool to fit the radiator drain...instead of trying to reach with pliers, etc.....Cut a 3/4 inch pipe about 5 inches long, welded a T handle on one end, slotted the other to fit over the drain valve. (use the block drain valve as a guide re how big to cut the slot). Way easier to reach in underneath and open/close the factory valve.
 

[Will Herring]

Well I went out today and tried it, and neither of them would come open with "hand power" (ie. bare hand), so I sprayed them with some penetrating oil and figure I will try again tomorrow with an actual wrench or something... Unsure what will get the best grip without damaging them, but I'm sure I'll find something [other than a nice T-wrench, apparently].
 

[Will Herring]

An update:

I spent about an hour working on the coolant system tonight. Finally got both of them uncorked (they do indeed turn to the "left" to let the water out). After I drained the block and the radiator, I flushed the radiator with a gallon of water (and a lot of nasty yellow brown crap came out until the last part of the gallon). Then I put the plug back in the radiator, and put enough water in until the block started to flush out -- but it was mostly clear from the start, which I was pleased with, so I put the block plug back in. Then I filled the coolant system back up to full with water, since I will have to drain in soon again to put in some new parts (temp gauge, thermostat, new antifreeze).

So I get on the tractor, pull the starter, and I get a "click". Damn battery was dead. Put the charger on it for about 15 minutes, and got it to spin, but not good enough to catch and start. Checked the valve on the bottom of the carb and it is getting a good flow of gas, so I figure I just need to charge the battery for a few hours and try her again.

Always something, lol.
 

[Will Herring]

Another update from tonight... Charged the battery for 4 hours, put it back in, tractor spun over nice and quick. Had to play with the choke a bit, but finally got her to start up. Running nice and smooth in about 20 seconds.

Checked the radiator as I was bleeding it off after just filling the coolant system -- and wanting to make sure I don't have a blown head gasket. No huge bubbles seemed to come up, but it was getting dark, but I did notice a lot of yellowish sediment flowing around (just like the crap that flushed out last time), so I think I will reflush the system before I put antifreeze in it for the winter soon.

I just need to start her up, pull her outside, make sure the radiator is full to the brim -- and after about 5 minutes (to let her bleed off properly) watch for air bubbles.