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Make my own tie rod sleeve?


 
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68Case440
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Joined: 19 Sep 2012
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 5:49 pm    Post subject: Make my own tie rod sleeve? Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Just replaced a spindle on Case 440 and the new key
groove was machined in off a few degrees so I have a
wheel now kicked out a few inches. This 440 has
hydraulic steering and two equal length tie rod sleeves. I
removed the clamp on the tie rod sleeve and opened up
the gap slightly with a hammer and chisel, wd-40, and the
propane torch. I can't get it to budge pounding on it or
using big pipe wrenches in case there are threads I don't
see. I took it completely off and heated it up real good
with a bigger propane torch and tried again with no
movement whatsoever. As I am without a welder at the
moment, I plan to have the local shop weld it back
together after I take out the inch of length which I
guesstimated will get me close for weekend mowing. I
would like to be able to adjust for toe though at some
point in the future. Anyone know if I can find a universal
tie rod sleeve so I can put in new threaded ends to get
fine adjustment? I already called O'reilly Auto parts and
they said they didn't have a universal kit. The shortest
sleeve I can figure I could use is a 19" sleeve so that at
least an inch of each tie rod end is threaded into the
sleeve as I need a hole to hole length of 22 1/8th and the
tie rod threaded ends are 3 1/8th from end to center.

If I need more than one inch of tie rod end threaded into
the sleeve, somebody please tell me. Also, do I want any
toe out when I align the front end in the drive? Wide front
axle already has plenty of degrees of positive camber on
each side and if I remember right, a fraction of an inch of
toe makes cars track good and enter corners good. How
much toe for a tractor using the tape measure or long 2x4
method? I have new tires up front so I want to make an
effort to get it lined up good.

Thanks for any suggestions to get me going for the
weekend and later with dialing in a better alignment.
 
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JMS/.MN
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 7:07 am    Post subject: Re: Make my own tie rod sleeve? Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Usual toe in is about 1/8 inch, measured half way up the rim.
 
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60 acre hillside
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 3:50 am    Post subject: Re: Make my own tie rod sleeve? Reply to specific post Reply with quote

You mentioned "toe out" what you want is "toe in" meaning that measured from the front the wheels "toe in" from an eighth to a quarter of an inch.
 
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rustyfarmall
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Location: Southwest Iowa

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 10:31 am    Post subject: Re: Make my own tie rod sleeve? Reply to specific post Reply with quote


Doubt if a propane torch will ever get it hot enough to do any good. If you can't get the tie rod red hot and glowing, you'll never accomplish much.

I'm also wondering why the keyway slot in the new spindle isn't in the same location as on the old spindle?
 
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rusty j 14
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 6:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Make my own tie rod sleeve? Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Does "Toe-in" matter that much when used on dirt?
Also, could you weld a couple of nuts on the end of the tie rod sleeve, in place of the original threads? Keeping the threads aligned, so you can screw the tie rod end in or out? And, using a lock nut, or two together?
 
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MisterT
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 5:34 am    Post subject: Re: Make my own tie rod sleeve? Reply to specific post Reply with quote


Proper toe-in will make it much easier to keep the tractor going in a straight line. Makes no difference if it is on dirt or pavement.
 
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68Case440
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 7:30 am    Post subject: Re: Make my own tie rod sleeve? Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Sorry to all that I didn"t get back right away. To answer one question, the new spindle key slot was only a few degrees off and well within an adjustment range (assuming of course your tierods will budge). Who knows why the new machined part wasn't milled the same. Maybe it was and my spindle I replaced was actually the different one from a decade or two ago. I think probably the jig that holds the part in position for milling was probably within acceptable tolerances for a part that requires adjustment anyway. Also different was the machined cone diameter at the top of the spindle, that accepts the steering arm, requiring me to get some big washers to take up 1/4 " of new up/down play. I just placed those at the bottom of the vertical axle tube and left the very thin washers at the top as they fit around the key with a groove cut in them. So obviously, this new spindle doesn't just bolt in exact.

I cut an inch out of the frozen tierod and had a neighbor weld it up so I could finish mowing. My job of eyeing the length turned out pretty good because the alignment looked good enough for a few days on grass (actually it looks deceivingly good as the both front and rear tires are new and crisp still with seam lines down the middle of the rears so you can sight it out better than with old tires). I will check it out by physically measuring when I take it onto the concrete drive soon.

The welded on ball joints are nearing the end of their life so I shot some wd40 into them to give them a few more hours with this temporary setup. The original tie rod sleeve didn"t have threads, but I plan to now get a rod and have the neighbor weld two nuts on (I guess one will need to be the opposite thread) and find some new ball joints to replace the ones with no grease and to get adjustment back. Auto parts stores can"t find me what I want. I need to find 19" or 20" adjusting sleeve so if anyone knows where I can buy one from a supplier without making one please let me know.

Hey, I finished mowing the pasture before the rain and that is what my goal was. My eyeball alignment job had the steering feeling the same so I was happy.
 
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36 Coupe
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 4:32 am    Post subject: Re: Make my own tie rod sleeve? Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Lose the WD 40 its the highest priced and poorest penetrant made.The shelf always has lots of Wd40 on it and the PB blaster is usually sold out.
 
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