Head Nuts OR Cap Screws

[equeen]

Okay, so I don't know the difference between a "Cylinder Head Nut" @ 50-55 lbs torque and

a "Cylinder Head Cap Screw" @ 65-70 lbs torque.

That's why I'm posting this.

I believe that it's going to be "bolts" that come out when I remove the head on my '50 Ford 8N in the morning. Then replace the head gasket and put the "bolts" back in as specified on pg 130 of the Ford Service Manual. What's the torque on these "bolts" and what's a "cap screw". I know what a nut is - me.

Thanks.
 

[Jock(OR)]

A "Cap Screw" is a fancy name for a bolt.

Early engines had studs (threads on both ends) that stayed (or were supposed to stay) in the block when the nuts were removed to remove the head. The torque values for "nuts" apply to these.

If you have bolts holding on the head, use the "cap screw" torque value.
 

[TheOldHokie]

[R Geiger]

I assume you are going to check to make sure the head is not warped before you re-install it.
 

[equeen]

Local engine shop can check for warped head.

Anything a country boy with no fancy shop can do to check for warped head?
 

[TheOldHokie]

[tn8n]

if you have a good undamaged (not bent, dinged, etc.) metal straightedge or ruler, you can turn the head upside down and hold the straightedge along the mating surface of the head in several places. if you can see daylight under it you'll know it's warped. look longways along the edges and side-to-side between cylinders. won't be super super accurate, but if you can't or don't want to take it to a shop it can't hurt.
 

[R Geiger]

I use a good straight edge ruler long enough for head. If warped you will see it and then take it to the machine shop for milling. If too much is taken off the pistons may hit head requiring more work. If milled check with no gasket and no bolts and turn engine over and watch head for movement.