Plaster Patching

[Ted in NE-OH]

I have some old plaster to patch, perhaps 1-2 inches deep. Is there a compound I can use to fill with one pass that won't shrink?
 

[kris Jensen]

not really. if it is that thick, it is going to shrink.
 

[larry@stinescorners]

plaster of paris,but it sets up quick,so you have to work it fast
 

[larry@stinescorners]

plaster of paris,but it sets up quick,so you have to work it fast
 

[larry@stinescorners]

thats me doing some plaster patching

 

[Stan in Oly, WA]

The problem won't be finding a patching compound that won't shrink---there are plenty of those. What's going to make the one pass requirement difficult to achieve is that it will be hard to find something that will fill such deep holes without slumping out. Slumping out is a problem mainly because non-shrinking compounds are often plaster of paris based, and tend to dry extrememly hard, which makes them difficult to sand. There are a number of ways around this problem, but most of them are much more time consuming than simply filling the holes to less than completely full in the first session, and leveling off with a following application after the initial pass has dried. Is it absolutely necessary that this be done in one pass?

Stan
 

[George Marsh]

Ted,
There is a drywall compound, comes in a bag, you have to add water, mix it up and it sets up in 20 minutes. There are other times that are slower. It is used to build corners and doesn't shrink as much as the bucket mud. Menards sells two types. The compound in a white bag is a soft compound that you can sand. The compound sold in a brown bag, when it sets up, it's water proof. If you don't remove it from your tools it's sets like cement. Even if you put your tools in water, it will set under water and once it sets it hard as a rock. I like to use it. Others hate it. Perhaps closest thing to the old plaster. If you look at old plaster walls, there is a gray cement plaster topped off with a white plaster.

If you have a large crack, I would recommend using something to open up the crack, fill it with the quick setting drywall compound and use drywall tape to cover the crack.

I use the slower setting mud to tape with. Almost never had a tape failure like I do with the mud in a bucket.

George
 

[larry@stinescorners]

I agree ,good advice
 

[Delawar Bill]

Use Duribond. Various setting times.
 

[Ted in NE-OH]

Thanks Guys
 

[George Marsh]

That's what I use, just couldn't think of it's name. That's what happens when your mind goes first, I think?
 

[FarmerZeb]

i would fill with plaster of paris or quick set and then topcoat with patching plaster or plain joint compound. anything you do with one pass will probably not look as good as a two part approach

-paul
 

[Stan in Oly, WA]

That is good advice, George. Just out of curiosity, what do you mean when you speak of a tape failure? Bubble under the tape, or lifted edge(s)? Those are the tape failures I'm familiar with. Are there others?

Stan
 

[pete 23]

Red Devil One Time. It goes on easy, dries without shrink and sands off very easy. I did a bunch of patching in the old farm house and I am no plasterer for darn sure. Tried several different things and this stuff is really good for small holes and if you are any good at applying it works good on larger areas also.
 

[Kirk Grau]

This won"t quite apply in your situation, but I will pass it on as some may be able to use it some time. If you have a hole (I have done up to 6" square or so) get a can of "Great Stuff" foam sealant and use it to fill the hole up to the surface (word of warning, this stuff sticks to anything so be careful not to overspray onto something you don"t want to be messed up. Once cured (~30 minutes), trim as necessary to get a little below surface level. Finish with compound.

Good Luck with your work,

Kirk