NAA PTO replacement

[buck eye al]

Several weeks ago I posted asking a question about replacing the original PTO with a 1 3/8" PTO. I had purchased one & installed it but things were not going well. I had placed the old PTO in gear before removing it then pulled it out & the new one slid right in. Once in & with all 4 cap screws started I took it out of gear & it turned freely. Put it back in, it did not turn. All looked good. Took it out of gear again & then started to tighten the bolts testing for free rotation of the shaft. As soon as the lock washers started to flatten the shaft locked up. Took the side cover off to make sure the shifter was operating properly & nothing was bent. All looked great.

I posted a question here asking about the possibility of a need for shims to set a specific position for the shaft & was advised there ought not be any such a need.

Tinkered some more and removed it & measured total length form gasket surface forward to the end of the shaft. New was about 30 thousnads longer so I cut another gasket, installed it & everything works perfectly.

Wanted to thank those who replied. It's not my tractor. I was trying to do the owner (a widow) a favor and this presumed simple job had me sweating for a while!

I do however have another question....

Being much more familiar with green painted critters, I'm a bit ignorant of the NAA. Did it have one gear lube reservoir like the N series tractors or does it have separate compartments? Is maybe the fluid I've drained (looks and smells like 80/90 GL5) ONLY the rear end & transmission lube while the hydraulic system is still good in some other chamber or is this oil used byu the hydraulic pump?

I know the NAA is altogether different with its live hydraulics from the N series. Does it use 80-90 GL-5 for it's hydraulic flid just like it's predecessors or does it need a lighter hydraulic type fluid instead? It's been parked for several years back in a low overhead part of a barn without lights so it's a flashlight job until I can get it out but I don't want to do something stupid with the fluids.

Thanks again.
 

[LeoinMI]

You are correct in assuming that there are three sumps for the fluids. One sump for the transmission,(fill is the big plug right by the shifter)the sump fill for the hydraulics is under the seat on the drivers left side and the fill for the differential is under the drivers seat on the right side. I have 80/90w gear lube in the tranny and diffy and 134u hydraulic fluid for the hydraulic sump.I included a picture showing the fill ports and check plugs and dipstick for the hydraulic fluid check. Hope this helps.
Leo

 

[souNdguy]

i was the guy that told you to cut the snd spacer gasket.. and told you it had 3 sumps.. and told you that pulling the pto shaft draind the hyds and the rear end.

hyds gets utf for sure.. rear end and tranny can use gear oil OR utf.. many use utf as the sump between hyds and rear that the pto passes thru can leak.
 

[buck eye al]

Thanks guys.... Your cooperative and patient second round plus the picture have together answered the questions. I appreciate your help very much!

Later.
 

[buck eye al]

PS... soundguy.. your mention of how some do use UTF in the gear cases helped explain one other thing. This tractor's winter hydraulics have always been slow to work. If pushing snow at less than 20° it simply had to sit and idle about 20 minutes before the blade would raise at more than a snail's pace. Her husband would go start it, then smoke one or two and go back to the house for a cup of coffee then go out & start pushing snow.

We'll find out if the inter chamber seal is bad by filling with the fluids each is supposed to have & if the slows return we'll know what's up & convert at least the final to UTF. I don't know if the hydraulics were filled in the past with the wrong fluid or not but I'll bet we'll find out!

Thanks again guys.