TO-35 Dual Stage Clutch Adjustment

[Inno]

I tried the search and came up with nothing related to my problem.
When going from neutral into any gear it acts like the clutch is not disengaged. I get grinding until the gears slow down enough to mesh. Once in gear the tractor does not try to move and once you have it in gear and come to a complete stop you can shift to any other gear including reverse, without any grinding.
I have tried pushing down the clutch pedal and waiting 15-20 seconds thinking maybe I was being impatient but it doesn't help. I've even tried pushing the pedal all the way down so as to disengage the PTO and pump and that does not help. The PTO portion of the clutch works just as I would expect it to.
I'm thinking it must be an adjustment but I don't know where to start.........well maybe I could look in my service manual but it's out in the shop and I'm not.
 

[John(UK)]

The only adjustments for the Wheel drive Clutch is the Pedal and the Levers on the Clutch assy. You can set the pedal externally, but to set the Levers you need to split the tractor. From how you describe it the Plate is sticking to either the Flywheel or the Clutch and that is why it grinds. But usually when you get that problem there is some judder as you take up the drive. There is also another problem that happens very occasionally and that is the Plate is sticking to either the Flywheel or the Clutch due to a vacuum holding the polished linings to the Clutch. The way to overcome that is to drill all the rivets with a small hole. So check the pedal adjustment which should be 3/8" between the underside of the footrest and the top of the pedal lever, when you press the pedal lightly to remove the free-play. The pedal adjustment should be done when the tractor is warm when everything expands. If that doesn't cure it, then take out the Engine and Check the Clutch for wear and re-set the Levers, check the Plate for wear, how close to the top of the linings are the top of the rivets, is there much wear left in the Plate.
If it is sometime since the Clutch had any attention then the Clutch itself can be worn where the Levers pivot and while the pedal is giving you the correct feel, the Clutch is not opening enough. There is very little movement between the 2 Clutches on a Dual Clutch, so everything needs to be unworn. If you do have to change the Clutch, you will need to set-up the Levers and the PTO Clearance on the new Clutch, DON'T fit it straight from the box, this applies to any Clutch on any tractor, you cannot be sure that the setting is correct for your Tractor. To Adjust the Clutch Levers on your present Clutch you will need to use a NEW Clutch Plate even if the old Plate appears to be comparatively unworn. If any Plate has been used there will be some wear, so you need to use a NEW plate to re-set the Levers even if you use the old Plate when you rebuild the tractor. As I said earlier there is very little movement on a Dual Clutch, so it needs to be set correctly or you will have problems and you can't set a Dual Clutch without using a new Plate. Don't be tempted to try it with the old Plate or you could regret the decision.
John(UK)...fergusontractors@hotmail.com
 

[Inno]

Thanks John, I think if I have to go as far as splitting the tractor I will go ahead an replace everything related to the clutch as well as any seals that might wear out. Seems like a big job although I planned to bring it in the shop over the winter and do a good servicing on it.
 

[Gearhead210]

Also sounds like the center of the clutch disc may be torn out, or a spline in the drive somewhere. Pinion coupling? just throwing ideas out.
 

[samn40]

Are you judging the gear selection based on a to20/30 or against
another 35? The 35 selection is not near as smooth as the 20/30
and you have to literally bang it into gear, not mess about trying
to'feather' it in. If it is worse than any other 35 you have tried then
follow John's instructions.(see my photos also. The last adjustment
is on the clutch shaft/pedal and this is the connector clamp from a
65 but it is the same idea, only the clamp is directly on the clutch
pedal of the 35!)
Sam



 

[jtr ind.]

Inno, are you trying to shift on the run or while sitting still ?
 

[supergrumpy]

my 135 does same thing, I suspect a worn pilot bearing
 

[Inno]

While sitting still, going from neutral into any gear. Once it's in gear I can shift smoothly to any other gear as long as the tractor remains stopped or is stopped completely after moving. It's just on the initial shift from neutral to any gear after having the clutch pedal up.

Samn40, I am comparing it to my 202 Workbull which does not have a dual stage clutch but as far as I know the same transmission as the TO-35.
 

[John(UK)]

If you need the info on what to do, just email me and I will send it...John(UK)...fergusontractors@hotmail.com
 

[Inno]

Thanks John, I will email when I am ready to take it apart. It probably won't be for a month or two, I still have some work to do with it before winter. There are other more pressing issues (the "chirp" sound) which I will address first.