D2 4U Pre-cleaner Glass Jar Part No 5F6658

[OzCat]

More questions, does anyone know if someone sells the glass jar that fits to the pre-cleaner? Cat Part No 5F6658

Can anyone provide photos of an original Cat jar and maybe some dimensions?

Can anyone advise to what torque the cap screw that retains the
steering clutch drum assembly(inner), should be tightened?

Can anyone advise to what torque the cap screw that retains the
final drive brake drum (outer of steering clutch), should be tightened?

Can anyone advise to what torque the nut that retains the
final drive sprocket, should be tightened?

Don't have an hydraulic pre-tensioning unit.

Thanks John
 

[Bret4207]

[AJ.]

You should go over to the Antique Caterpillar Machinery Owners Club, ACMOC at the link below, you will have to register to post, there are plenty people there who can advise you on the press tonnage and torques for your clutches and hubs.
AJ
http://www.acmoc.org
 

[JOHNNYfromMI]

Grab one of ma's canning jars, It will fit the air prefilter.
 

[NCWayne]

As far as the jar goes, the few I've seen still using glass jars have always been plain old mason jars. I doubt this is factory, but given the probability of the jar getting broke in use, I'd think an old Ball mason would be considered a 'period correct' replacement.

On the steerring clutch bolts, there is a torque for them, but it's usually near on to impossible to actually use a torque wrench on them. That said, what I learned from my Dad, who worked at both the CAT and A/C dealerships for years, is that you tighten them as tight as you can using one of the long steering clutch wrenches, or double wrench them, and call it good. If you have any doubts about your ability to get them tight enough, a small drop of red Loctite will usually 'make up the difference'. Dad had done more of them than I can count, and I lost count myself on the ones I've done and we've never had a problem with bolts coming loose with any of them.

As far as the sprocket nuts, again there is a specified torque, but the way I've always seen them tightened was with a wrench that was home made out of plate steel. You put the wrench on the nut, started the machine and rotated the sprocket until the wrench contacted the ground, and then eased into it until it tried to pick the machine up. Once the machine got it as tight as it could, you rotate it into a horizonal position and give it a few good whacks with a large sledge hammer until it stops moving. Granted this isn't as precise as using some sort of torque tool, but in more than 30 years of going into the field with Dad and watching him and others working on equipment, as well as doing it myself when needed, I've never seen it done any other way except in the service books where they have access to $20,000 worth of factory tooling. Ultimately though, I've never seen anyone have any problems with the end result of doing it the ways I've seen it done.