6v coil w/internal resistor

[equeen]

8N Side mount distributor.

With ignition switch on, power to - post on coil and no wire/cable connected from coil to distributor, coil has approx 6 volts on - post, on + post and on center "post".

Is this information of any value to me? What does it tell me?

Then, with connections to the distributor, I get essentially no voltage reading at the post to the distributor. Bump the starter a number of times, still no reading. Bushing and insulator of distributor post appear okay. Points set at .025.
 

[souNdguy]

i doubt you when you say 6v w/ internal resistor.

in any case.. open circuit just tells you there is some basiv continuity. after hooking up dizzy then 0 reading menas points are closed.. or that line is shorted to ground.. either at points or insulator or copper strip.. or in the breaker plate.

post back
 

[equeen]

You are a wise man to doubt my statement. I should have been specific. Coil is stamped "Use Without External Resistor".
 

[souNdguy]

pretty much what I figured. round coils are generally in the 6v variety or 12v.. whish is actually really just an indication of how much primary resistance they have. a '12v' coil that says use with external resistor is generally JUST a 6v coil.. etc..
 

[equeen]

Okay, it's dark outside.

+ side of coil wired to side of distr (wire is good)

cover off distr, points exposed

someone pushed starter button while I looked in the dark into the points/distr.

not even a glimmer of a spark as points opened and closed.

So, something is grounding in there??
 

[souNdguy]

and it would be upstream of the points.. like the copper conductor.. or the condensor.. or the feedthru insulator.

ps.. if you are negative ground.. the (-) side of the coil goes to dizzy... ( won't make a bit of difference tho.. )
 

[old]

Easy test here. Pull the ignition side wire off the coil. Turn on the ignition. Touch the wire to the coil while holding the coil wire as in the center wire of the cap close to the block. Be sure to have the points open. If when you do that you get a spark you have a short in the distributor be it the insulator or other such thing but you have a short. If no spark then close the points and try again. If no spark with the points closed then the points are bad or need to be cleaned
 

[souNdguy]

good post.

that's a real easy test for someone who may not understand the in's and outs of ignition or electronics. real simple and easy to see.

good post.
 

[equeen]

Ignition on
Points OPEN
+ wire to distr
ignition wire touched to - coil post
coil center wire to bare metal and finger

= shock, ouch, spark

Ignition on
Points CLOSED
+ wire to distr
ignition wire touched to - coil post
coil center wire to bare metal and finger

= shock, ouch, spark
 

[Royse]

[equeen]

Okay, as to the spark, maybe I was seeing things as I got the shocks; so I'll try again tomorrow.

However, this is an absolute, I just went outside and did it:
With points open or closed, with + post attached to side post on distr and with center coil wire touching nothing - I DO get a slight spark when rub ignition wire against - post on coil.

What does this mean?
 

[Royse]

[old]

You get a spark with the points open and also closed means you have a short in the distributor some place. Maybe the insulator going in the side of the distributor or you have the condenser wire hitting some metal some place or the points them self have a short in them or around them
 

[old]

Nope did not leave it out since in this case it does not matter. Getting a spark with the points open means he has a short in the distributor some place and that is the problem blue/white spark in this case if not needed till the short is found and fixed
 

[old]

I use that test when ever I pick up a non-running tractor to see if the points need to be messed with or if I can go on to other problems. Takes less then 5 minutes and 99% of the time it tells a person if the points are good or if they are bad and any body can do it