GPM OF 3000 TRACTOR

[ZANE]

Does the 3000 hydraulic pump have enough GPM to operate a Ford front loader???

Would it be enough flow to make it fast enough to be practicle? It's a pretty big loader. Lift cylinders about 3" I believe.

Zane
 

[Bern]

Sure, if you have all day.

Short answer: NO
 

[Ultradog MN]

3000 has 4.2 gpm on the pump.
Should be about the same as on a Hundred Series so base your decision on that.
We put a full hydraulic loader on a 2000 a couple of years ago and then sold it. Ran the loader off a dual remote.
The guy who bought it is very happy with it - including the loader.
 

[Sean in PA]

According to the New Holland parts web site, the hydraulic pump on the 3000 was 5.3gpm. It was only the 1/1/1965-9/30/1969 2000 models that had the 4.3gpm pump, and after 10/1/1969 even the 2000's had the 5.3gpm pump. My 1973 S-O-S 4000 has the same 5.3gpm pump that the 3000's had, and I just added a loader to mine. It is slower than I would like it, and if I was going to be using it all day every day I would probably add a stinger pump, but it is fast enough to be acceptable for the amount of work I need to do with it. From full down to full up takes less than 15 seconds, and it's got enough power that it raises at the same speed whether the bucket is empty or full. Make sure that you have the flow control valve turned all the way in to get the fastest speed.
 

[Brian in MA]

I tend to agree with all of the posters. It will be slower than a new/modern loader tractor, but much faster than a shovel and wheel barrow. It's all about perspective.
 

[ZANE]

Now that's the kind of information I was looking for!!! I feel a lot better.

One of the cylinders for the bucket on this old loader is seized. I've tried everything but nitroglycerin to get it to move. No luck. 10 ton heavy winch with three part 5/8" line with old four speed reducer tranmission. Front of truck tied to a big tree and the other end of the cylinder tied to a bigger tree. Nothing movining. Sure hate to buy a new cylinder but it's looking bad. Probably wouldn't be any good even if I did get it apart????

Zane
 

[Brian Allen]

ZANE
If it will not move under hydraulic pressure, there is not much point in taking it apart!
At east it is worth something for scrap!
Brian
 

[Sean in PA]

Zane, the loader I just put on my 4000 had cylinders that were so rusted that it wasn't worth trying to rebuild them. I took measurements of the old cylinders and kept my eye on surpluscenter.com. I found a good match for the bucket cylinder right away, but the lift cylinders took a while. You need to measure all of the key dimensions. Size and type of mounts at each end of the cylinders is important. The length of cylinder (center-to-center of the mounting holes) fully closed is one measurement that is used, and the stroke (difference between length when full closed and fully opened) is another. The final measurement is the bore, but you can be a bit less exact when matching the bore. In fact, since you're worried about speed of the loader, going with a slightly smaller bore is probably a good thing. 3 inches sounds a little too big for a 3000 anyway. A bigger bore is just going to slow down the lift and increase the ability to lift more weight, and the 3000 shouldn't be lifting too much anyway because the front axle isn't designed to carry that much. If you're going to be replacing one lift cylinder, you should probably replace them both so that they're a matched set. I got mine for about $100.00 each.
 

[ZANE]

Thanks, I'll look into that Surplus Center site.

The cylinder I need is 46" Retracted
1-1/4 pin,
1-1/4 rod
Bore 2-1/2?

Zane