WD45 AND PLOW REUNITE

[CM BEHOUNEK]

I decided to get the plow going Sunday. The plow and tractor havent been hooked together in more than 50 years. I have never plowed before so I am posting these pictures for any hints if im doing things right. I didnt plow much that day the tractor is out of power, I have to hold the hand clutch all the way back the whole time, clutch problems?




 

[Ted J]

Sounds like the clutch plate is wore down. Have you been using it a lot? So that its not stuck? Might have to take it apart and pull some shims out. All depends. We need more info on it? Have you been using the tractor a lot? Does the hand clutch handle just flop forward? There are those that know a lot more than I do about it who can help, but they need more info.
 

[CM BEHOUNEK]

I dont use the tractor much, yes the hand clutch flops forward, I have tried to adjust it but dont work.
 

[Ted in NE-OH]

I have same set up, hope to plow again some day.
 

[Tramway Guy]

By chance, do you perhaps have the 'hand clutch kickout' on your tractor? If so, it might be interfering with the clutch lever.
 

[Butch(OH)]

Couple things, first and foremost is safety. Although in my 50 odd years of working Snap Coupler equipment I have never had it happen it has been reported that the coupler can release under load. With the lift arms attached as you have them the plow cannot unlatch if the coupler releases and it will flip over on the operator, BAD DAY. Since you cannot easily convert that type plow to the proper lift latches that will release you have to take other steps to make it safe to pull. Two ways to fix it, that plow was originaly what is known as a pin hitch. Convert it back to a pin type draw point OR bolt a short length of chain to the plow drawbar and under the tractor is such a manner that it will retain the plow if it comes unlathed at the coupler. I go through the "H" link above the coupler when I do it. Make sure it is long enough to not bind when you lift the plow but not overly long.

Second thing is your hand clutch. Sounds like you have the proper rock trip that you should have for that type plow. It is designed to throw out the hand clutch when you hit a rock. As things wear they throw it out without due cause. Look just above the frame rail by your right foot is there "U" shaped divise that will push on the lever? If so you need to adjust it so you can plow without it pushing the clutch out.

Also from the pics it look slike you need to know about headlands and dead furrows. Wish I could show you instead of trying to explain it. Basicaly after ythe first time across the field you should turn a hard right and come back plowing right beside the first pass, not on top of it but right beside it leaving no unplowed dirt. Then when you get back where you started turn right again BUT drop the right tire down in the furrow formed during pass #1. Repate until the "land" gets wide enough to suit you. More from here but that will get you going in the right direction.
 

[CM BEHOUNEK]

My dad talked about moving in the rt tractor wheel in to make the plow dig in deeper on the front blade. I noticed also I am missing the culters, I will put that safety chain on before I go out again. I'm wondering if I can put a shim in thwarting clutch.
 

[LeonardWD45]

To gain more depth turn the crank handle in the center of the plow clockwise, more shallow turn counter clockwise.

Is the right hand hook up adjustable, if so lengthen so that the right hand side of the plow will drop down more.

Just remember, when plowing, after the first round your tractor will be at a slight angle with the right hand side running in the previous rounds open furrow, so dropping the r/h share down may make it dig too deep.

As for running out of power, I just completed a complete rebuilt of the engine in my WD-45 with a 4.125 overbore kit and pulling a 3 bottom with 16in spacing in concrete hard ground, I had more power than I could put on the ground and my fuel economy is about 3 times better.

Leonard
 

[Aaron SEIA]

Sounds like you need to check the shims in the hand clutch. A good AC or I&T shop manual will tell you how to do it. First time I've ever seen a pin hitch plow on a snap coupler tractor.
AaronSEIA
 

[Butch(OH)]

Ooops forgot an important one.
There is a fairly complicated proceedure to adjust the hydraulics between lift and hold and for the draft control mode you need to be in tocontrol that plow, more than I can effectively type. If you have the manual it is in it of if your battery box decal is still readable it is there. If that plow is rusty it will pull very hard until it scours. Carry a scraper and clean it off when it build sup will help a lot. Looks like you have some very mellow dirt so scouring is going to be a problem. In our sandy clay about two rounds in that size field would have it rolling dirt nicely, LOL
 

[CM BEHOUNEK]

I have the manual for the plow, in the front of the book it shows the hydrolic control for the tractor 4 knobs A-B-C-D, I adjusted those, the dirt builds up some, scraping it off would help alot till I get her shiny. With the hook up method I have it shows the draw bar support inplace but I took it out, it wouldnt stay in place. The right hand side adjustment is froze, I have to put the torch on it.
 

[Will Herring]

[JMS/.MN]

There should be a definite "snap" when it goes over center. If not, remove shims at each of three locations around the clutch under the battery box. If shims are gone, you need to split the tractor and rebuild clutch.
 

[LeonardWD45]

If you have a Dodge dealer close by stop into their parts department and ask for a can of Mopar rust penetrant. Spray the threads with it wait about 5 minutes spray again. Wait about an hour then return to the plow with a big wrench and the adjustment should turn with some pressure just don't try to force it too much. BTDT this past week, the beaming crank on my plow was rusted tight and after spraying I used an 18in pipe wrench and was able to get it loose and was able to adjust the depth.

Leonard
 

[BushogPapa]

Not too sure if you can get the wheels Narrow enough, for a Mounted 2x14"..
For sure, you will need the rear wheels moved IN all the way..
A slatted plow scours pretty well..there is less steel for the soil to stick to.
In that soil, you will find that WD-45 will not have much of a load on it..
Here in central Ohio, I used a fully mounted 4x14" slatted plow for a couple years, but it was just about too heavy for the WD-45 to lift out of the ground..
For a 4x14", the rear wheels are set-out much wider..not "all the way", but almost..
The "Snap-Coupler" was developed because it was Safer than the old WD "Thru-Pin" the WD used..
Find a way to convert the lift arms for use of the releasing latches or find a plow that will use them..they DO Release if, for some reason the lower attachment should come loose..
Ron..