Looking at MF 1155

[NTXHay]

Hi All,
I am looking at a Massey Ferguson 1155 locally for what seems to be a good price, compared to ones I see on bbalert.com. The fellow who has it says that he bought it at an auction and drove it back to his shop about 60 miles. To me, that's a good sign that at least the engine must be OK. Its batteries are dead, but he's charging them so I can hear it run this evening. I've never driven a tractor this big, so I'm not sure about everything to look for. My biggest question is about the transmission...this one doesn't have a regular transmission. From the ones on bbalert, it looks like it has the one called Synchro Shift, or Partial Powershift. What can I check to see that it's working correctly? I think that I can figure out which levers control the PTO and 3-point, so I think that I can check them out. I've read and heard that these types of transmissions can be very expensive to fix, so I just want to make sure that I can tell if something is wrong. He already told me that the brakes are weak, but that's something that I'd expect for a 40 year-old tractor...
Thanks!
 

[Erik Ks farmer]

As far as I know that 1155 has a 3 speed transmission with multi-power. The transmissions you need to be concerned about are in the 2000 series tractors (2745 would be comparable to the 1155).
 

[moresmoke]

1155 will have a 3 speed trans with high low range and the multipower. The multi power lever is on the left of the dash, next to the PTO shifter. It is a hi low two speed shift on the go. The shift linkage can hang at times if you get too excited while shifting, but otherwise its a pretty solid transmission. The three point control is on the right of the seat, be sure it is in position control, or the operation will seem weird. The brakes are just basic hydraulic brakes, as long as the pedals are not spongy they should be decent. Usually they work well, but don't grab like the power brakes of some other brands.
 

[Dieselmatic]

There are a few 1155's with 8 speed trans also. Had one here as a loaner.
 

[NTXHay]

Thanks to y'all for your replies. As y'all said, it has a 3 speed trans with high low range and the Multipower. We got it running and drove it around the field for a bit. Everything seemed to be working on it, so we bought it. We changed the oil and filters and added about 5 gallons of transdraulic fluid, and then drove it about 15 miles home. I can see that it burns a little oil, but oil pressure never got below 50 psi and the water temp just barely hit the green range. The oil was still clean and down just a bit when we got it home, and the radiator cap had pressure on it. You are right that it's pretty hard to shift!
I have an operator and shop manual already ordered. But in the meantime, could y'all perhaps help me understand what is Multipower and how do I use it?
Thanks!
 

[moresmoke]

Its just a high low gear that you can shift on the fly. Similar to Internationals torque amplifier. Just be aware that low gear does not have any engine braking for going down hill. Also if it is in high and the tractor rolls back against it when you stop to shift the gears can bind. Shift the multipower to low and the transmission gears will relaease.
 

[560farm]

Move the mp lever in one swift, smooth motion. I would recommend changing the hydraulic oil, filter and pull the cover under the rearend and check/clean the sump screen. If you look back thru the archives for the 1105/35/55 you"ll find a lot of useful info too.
 

[Ellis-Va]

When you are in hi-range it acks like a brake going down hill so you maintain your speed. The brakes go sometimes when brakes are used on duels for lock turns
 

[NTXHay]

I drove the tractor around in my field today and tried out the Multi Power lever. I see where it could be useful to switch to a lower or higher range without stopping the tractor to change gears. I bought this 1155 to pull a scraper to dig a ~one-acre pond. I can see how the Multi Power lever could be useful when the pan starts to get full and I need a lower gear to keep filling it.
I'm definitely planning to change the hydraulic oil and screen and filter...no telling how long it's been since it was changed last. One good sign is that the hydraulic oil that was in it looked pretty clean. I was just thrilled that it didn't have water in it!
I have one more question that maybe y'all can help me with. So far, it won't start when cold unless I give it a shot of ether. I found the place behind the grill up front to mount a can, and the button under the starter switch works fine to get it started. But I've been reading through the archives for a few days now, and I've seen mention of an excess fuel button on the right side of the injector pump to help cold starting. This button is even listed in the cold starting procedure on the console. But here's my problem: I can't for the life of me find the button! I pressure-washed the injector pump to clean off all of the old gunk, and found a parts diagrams on-line. I still can't find it. I do have an operator's manual and shop manual already ordered, and I am hopeful that one of them will have a picture of where it's at. In the meantime, could one of you be so kind as to give me a description of where to look and what to look for? I'd really like to try it and see if that button will help it start without ether.
Thanks to all of you!
 

[MasseyMan1089]

Those big V-8's always need ether to get started. Its a way of life for them! Plug it in when it gets cooler out.
 

[NTXHay]

Actually, thanks to the great guys on this board, I found the excess fuel button on the injector pump! Now it starts right up every time without ether! But here in north Texas, it's still fairly warm. The lowest temp that I've tried to start the tractor is around 70 degrees. I'm sure that I'll need to use the ether button once it gets colder. My brother has a J-D 5020, and it always needs ether when it gets below 70 degrees or so.