MF 135 brakes

[witzend]

Braking has been very bad since I got this tractor and it became just a bit too exciting going downhill, so I got 2 pairs of brake shoes and have taken off one wheel.

When I took a look I wondered if I've been too hasty purchasing the spares. The shoes look pretty good to me, though a little glazed (see pix). The minimum liner thickness is 4mm.

I'm thinking that the brakes are just out of adjustment, as the adjuster sprocket thing doesn't seem to line up with the slot (at least on this wheel, see pix) so would be virtually impossible to turn?

Anybody got any views or suggestions?
 

[JerseyJoe]

Assembled incorrectly,flip the adjuster over to line up with adjusting hole.The way that is installed is for the other side.Ferguson used the same backing plates for both sides,one adjusting hole favoring up and the other down.This was so when adjusting, you operated the adjusting tool the same direction on both sides.
 

[135 MF]

David P will tell you the best way to get the brakes
to work. It's in the archives on here too. I think a
big part of the most usual problems is the cam that
actuates the brakes wears out and doesn't allow the
pads to expand enough.
 

[DavidP, South Wales]

Hello Witzend and thanks for the intro MF 135.
The shoes do appear to be dirty and would benefit from a clean-up with some sand paper. Make sure you don't breathe in any of the dust.
The wear that normally occurs is on the front upper, and lower rear face of the operating cam.
With the shoes fully adjusted check the position of the inner shaft arm when the brakes are applied. It should be perpendicular to the centre line of the tractor at maximun and NO more. When correct the arm (see photo) will be hanging rearwards slightly. As the brakes are applied full leverage is transferred to the shoes giving maximum braking efficiency. If the arm goes beyond the max point the leverage will start to drop off.
The cams are easily built up with weld and ground back. The new face can be left a little proud.
Remove the brake rods and make sure that the clevises are free. Grind the worn area off and build up. Grind back to suit. Assemble the shoes. Check that the shoes are sitting 'square'. Use a set square off the half-shaft face to check this. Adjust if necessary by the screws in the backplates. Fit the drums and adjust up until they cannot be turned by hand. Using a piece of rope tie the pedals fully up to the steering wheel. Adjust the rods so that the pins can just be fitted. Slacken the adjusters about 5 or 6 'clicks and check that the drums are free and that there is one to one and a half inches of pedal movement. Final adjustment will need to be done on a hard surface.
Subject to the shoes not being glazed or contaminated the tractor should now stop on the proverbial (for us) sixpence....probably dime on your side of the pond.



 

[DavidP, South Wales]

Same photo twice.....blame the internet.
 

[witzend]

Jersey Joe, 135 Mf and DavidP thank you all for you experience, knowledge and expertise. Useful as manuals are, this kind of advice and support is invaluable and makes all the difference. I'll let you know how I get on ...

Thanks.