Removing oil pan on an 8N

[FarmerHR]

I am working on a 1948 8N with a front mount distributor converted to 12 volts. I needed to remove the oil pan to get at the inside of the engine to meaasure parts.
It was on really tight. It was put on with some type of form a gasket. I could not drive my best puddy knife on the left side to start the loosing process.
I ground a sharp tooth on the end and the side of the blade. I then used the tooth to repeatedly scrap the hardened form a gasket until I was finally through it. It required a considerable number of strokes. Then I was able to use the puddy knife blade and a hammer to break the bond the rest of the way around engine.
Also I put 4 5/16 bolte two inches long on the corners of the oil pan and screwed them into the engine. When the bond was broken and the pan came loose, the bolts held the pan and let it fall only about an inch. This worked well.
This site has been so much help to me, I wanted to share this in the hopes of helping.
Thank You.
 

[Royse]

Sounds like a great idea using the corner bolts to keep it from dropping all the way to the floor.
I'm not one to use much sealer on those gaskets.
I could see a little on the pan side maybe to help hold it in place for assembly.
Its not like there's a lot pressure in the oil pan.
 

[souNdguy]

yep.. gluing most gaskets on just makes em harder for the next guy to take off.

since I never really sell tractors.. I am likely to be the 'next guy' if anything ever comes off :)

most times a pan gasket leaks is due to peopl over-tightening them.

i know cnh pan cork gaskets are nice and meaty. did a few on some red tigers this year / last year..
 

[showcrop]

I don't usually coat gaskets but occasionally I decide that it would be a good idea. When I do I prefer Hi Tack aerosol, but before spraying it on I ask myself, "which part will be easier to scrape the gasket off from if I need to disassemble in the future?"